Edition: U.S. / Global

Monday, November 14, 2016

Food

A Good Appetite

A New (Faster, Juicier) Way to Roast a Turkey

To get the dark and white meat to both cook perfectly, pick up your paring knife and splay the legs.

Wines of The Times

There Are No Wrong Thanksgiving Wines

For the holiday, selecting the wines is the easiest task of all. All bottles are good, though some are better.

A Positive Jam

My colleagues Wesley Morris and Jenna Wortham came into the kitchen for a talk and some turkey, a bird we should be eating way more often.

How I Mastered the Art (and Politics) of Cornbread Dressing

Navigating the treacherous shoals of Southern custom, class, region — and Grandma.

Advertising

Paul Newman Who? Salad Dressing Company Adjusts to Reach Millennials

Newman’s Own gives all its profit to charity, but that message on its labels didn’t seem to stand out to a generation known to favor companies with social consciences.

Missives From the Past: ’64 Barolos Tell Their Story

At a tasting of 14 Barolos from the legendary 1964 vintage, the wines offer a snapshot of a region in transition.

Hungry City

At Thursday Kitchen, Cocktails Glow and Korean Food Relaxes

A chef engineers treats for her young East Village audience.

Fermentation, a Love Story

In the Hudson Valley, one chef crafts tonics and elixirs to cure PMS and indigestion, potent potions for a restaurant — and a very fragrant little world.

Jerusalem’s Latest Argument Over History Is About Fried Innards

A recent death revived an old debate over who invented meorav Yerushalmi, or Jerusalem mixed grill, the signature dish of the city’s Mahane Yehuda Market.

Thanksgiving
City Kitchen

The Pecan Steps Off the Pie Plate

Evan Sung for The New York Times

Long a darling of the holiday dessert table, the pecan finds new roles in Thanksgiving rolls, date bars and a savory sage cocktail cookie.

Bites to Answer the Call of Guests’ Rumbling Stomachs

The turkey is in the oven, but that last half-hour, as final guests trickle in, calls for something savory, easy and room temperature.

A Classic Thanksgiving Dinner Menu

Timeless Thanksgiving recipes from NYT Cooking for a holiday feast to serve 10 to 12 guests.

A Sweet Solution for the Whole Holiday Season

This orange-cranberry cake can be made ahead, it travels well, and it is perfect to bring out though all the holidays this season.

Keep the Peace at the Children’s Table

Give the youngsters coloring place mats to decorate before or during Thanksgiving dinner.

Hand-Harvested Salt for the Thanksgiving Host

Sal del Mar’s 16-ounce bags of salt are packed in hand-stitched cloth bags.

A Cake Box That Stores Like a Baking Sheet

This new Sugar Cube totes holiday cakes, pies and cookies with ease.

A Sunflower-Seed Oil From the Finger Lakes

This Stony Brook organic oil is a fine alternative to extra-virgin olive oil.

An Apron Made for Women by Women

Money raised from Tilit’s latest chefs’ apron will benefit a grant fund for women’s culinary education.

A Pan for the Turkey, and a Casserole Too

This new roasting pan features a lid that can be flipped and used as a baking dish.

Hey Mr. Food Editor

No Tofurkey for You (and Other Thanksgiving Cooking Advice)

You will make vegetables for your vegetarian guests, and you will call them by their proper names.

Restaurants and News
Jean Schwarzwalder for The New York Times

Floyd Cardoz, who won accolades at Tabla, returns to his native cuisine with a menu built around breads.

Behind the Famed Tartine Bakery, a Gluten-Free Talent

Elisabeth Prueitt is finding sweetness beyond wheat at the San Francisco bakery she founded with her husband.

For Banh Mi, Violet’s Bake Shoppe Has the Math Down

Sandwich ingredients are in ideal proportions at this Chinese-Vietnamese place in Forest Hills, Queens.

Toblerone Alters Shape of 2 Chocolate Bars, and Fans Are Outraged

The maker of the Swiss chocolate has shrunk and reconfigured two milk-chocolate versions, with narrower triangles and a wider gap between peaks.

The Chopped Cheese’s Sharp Rise to Fame

A sandwich with a base of grilled ground beef, long popular in New York bodegas, is now spreading to more upscale purveyors and has prompted vigorous debate on the internet over cultural appropriation and related issues.

Off the Menu

Spice Market Chef Puts His Spin on Chinese Food at Chaan Teng

New restaurants from Pichet Ong and Jared Sippel, and other New York openings.

Plan to Rein In New York’s Street Fairs Prompts Unexpected Backlash

Amid criticism, officials have shelved new rules that would limit the number of fairs, spread them into more areas of the city and require a greater diversity of offerings.

Opening a Restaurant Is Hell. So Here I Go Again.

Hope springs eternal for Keith McNally as he unveils his 14th restaurant, Augustine.

Food Fight Heats Up as America’s Test Kitchen Sues a Founder

A lawsuit accuses Christopher Kimball and others of theft in creating a new cooking empire, Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street.

Restaurant Review

Le Coucou Pays Rich Homage to Old-School French Cuisine

From its sauces to its simple elegance, Daniel Rose’s restaurant in SoHo draws on New York’s attraction to history and Europe.

Hatched From Peanuts, the South’s Hot New Oil

A small farmer’s experiment pressing green peanut oil has inspired big-name chefs.

David Chang Bets Big, Using Silicon Valley Money

The chef, who has famously relied only on friends and family, has turned to venture capital for his delivery-only project, Ando.

You Might Be Paying Too Much for Your Chicken

Investors contend that the way a chicken pricing index used by grocery stores is compiled has kept the retail price of chicken artificially high.

Searching for Lady Kung Fu

Angela Mao was as famous as Bruce Lee when she was a martial arts film star during the 1970s. Then she seemed to vanish. It turns out she’s been in Queens this whole time.

At Trader Joe’s, Good Cheer May Hide Complaints

Some workers at Trader Joe’s stores, including one who says he was fired for lacking a “genuine” smile, have complained about their treatment and of safety lapses.

Neighborhood Joint

It’s All Smiles at Sorriso Italian Market in Queens

Since 1979, Frank DePaola’s store in Astoria, Queens, has built a loyal following with its pastas, sauces, cheeses, oils and charcuterie.

Is New York Too Expensive for Restaurateurs? We Do the Math

You’ve heard the complaints; here’s how the city compares with Los Angeles and San Francisco.

What in the World

Billboard, Souvenir, Metaphor: The Many Uses of a German Beer Coaster

Anywhere that kegs are tapped in Germany, you’ll find the pressed-paper discs known as bierdeckel — and people who creatively repurpose them.

At the Beatrice Inn, Cuisine for Animals

Angie Mar, the chef and owner of this West Village restaurant, mines history for forgotten indulgences that satisfy innate cravings.

For Helping Immigrants, Chobani’s Founder Draws Threats

Hamdi Ulukaya employs resettled refugees at his yogurt factories. Now he’s being targeted on social media and by right-wing websites.

Cooking
Eat

Not All Ragùs Are Italian

Mapo Ragù
Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times

Mapo Ragù

A simplified take on a Chinese takeout dish that became a New York restaurant classic.

City Kitchen

Oysters, Cloaked in Potatoes and Cream

This savory oyster pie brings the bivalves together with crème fraîche, leeks and bacon, under a mashed potato lid.

A Good Appetite

Pork Stew Gets a Chile Kick

Coconut milk, garam masala and cayenne make for a luscious, fragrant pork stew.

The Funfetti Explosion

Sweetened by nostalgia and fueled by social media, rainbow sprinkles have coated the entire world of baking.

City Kitchen

Potato Samosas, Long a Street Food, Find a Place in Your Kitchen

The little savory pies, cousins of empanadas and pasties and other hand-held dough-wrapped morsels, may be best made at home.

A Good Appetite

Mackerel, Milder Than Salmon and Just as Delectable

Long weighed down by a unpleasantly odoriferous reputation, this sustainable, meaty fish is an excellent choice for a quick weeknight dinner.

Drinks
The wine writer Hugh Johnson in Central Park, where he admired one of the last stands of American elms in North America.
Andrew White for The New York Times

The wine writer Hugh Johnson in Central Park, where he admired one of the last stands of American elms in North America.

The writer has spent decades as an inspirational authority on wine and trees, and his enchantment endures.

That Historic Cocktail? Turns Out It’s a Fake

The bartender behind Louisville’s celebrated Seelbach cocktail and its quirky back story admits that he made it all up.

A Brandy for the Last Whig President

An American brandy company honors the nation’s 13th president with a smooth, gentle blend.

Former Napa Valley Winemaker Arrested in Fraud Scheme

A grand jury charged Jeffry James Hill with stealing grapes and deceiving customers about the source and type of grapes in the wines he sold.

Wines of The Times

The Innate, Ageless Appeal of Good Bordeaux

High prices are an issue, but decent vintages like 2011 are an opportunity to become acquainted with a historic region.

Drink

Spirited Away

A cocktail can help tap into our more indecorous desires.

The Pour

20 Wines for Under $20: The Fall Edition

The territory for great values in wine is $15 to $25. Many wines are cheaper, but few of those are distinctive.

Wine School
Wine School
Your Next Lesson: Montsant

These Spanish wines live in the shadow of Priorat but offer character in their own right.

Cooking Guides
How to Make Brussels Sprouts

Here are five simple methods for cooking brussels sprouts, which are more versatile than greens and just as delicious.

Featured Recipes
Tomato Soup
Lasagna
Ginger Fried Rice
The Seelbach Cocktail
Blood and Sand
Pecan Pie Truffles
Captain’s Blood
Celery Toasts
Disco Ball
Berry Tiramisù
Paper Plane
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How-To Videos
Cooking Techniques

A library of more than 50 videos demonstrating simple skills that home cooks should master.

Find your favorite recipes on our Pinterest boards.

INTERACTIVE MAP: New York Health Department Restaurant Ratings Map

Interactive map of health violations at restaurants in New York

Culinary Travel
Choice Tables
From Italian-Asian to Locavore Canadian: Food Adventures in Vancouver

Exploring the culinary landscape of a multiethnic port city in the Pacific Northwest.

Pursuits
In Israel, a New Passion for Palestinian Cuisine

Going far beyond hummus and grilled meats, chefs in Israel are showcasing modern Arabic cooking (kubbe made with grouper, crème brûlée with tahini).

Bites
An Ann Arbor Restaurant Serving ‘Food of Substance’

Like its décor, Spencer’s food is an Instagram fantasia — but it’s also ambitiously tasty.

Boîte
The Vnyl, a Sprawling East Village Club, Brings Back the ’70s

The four-story night life emporium features a cafe, cocktail bar, food and vintage LPs chosen by Adrian Grenier.

52 Places to Go
Where Foodies Should Go in 2016

Truffles, beer, cherries and crustaceans are singled out for celebrations.

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