Fishing methods

Still-fishing
Still-fishing simply means baiting a fishing hook, putting it in the water and waiting for a fish to find it. This method can be used from a boat, a dock, or from shore. Depending on water depth and what you’re trying to catch, you may want to still-fish near the surface, at a mid-water depth, or right down on the bottom. Using a float, or bobber, makes it easy to fish near the surface; adding sinkers to your line to fish deeper.

Casting
Casting your bait with a fishing rod and reel can be used both to catch fish that chase their food or to fish in a particular spot where fish hang out, such as next to a submerged stump or under a tree that’s leaning out over the water. Casting is usually done with an artificial lure, to coax fish into striking. Lures such as spinners, wobbling spoons, plugs and spinnerbaits are commonly used for casting.

Trolling
Trolling is simply dragging a lure, bait, or a bait-and-lure combination through the water, using a boat rather than casting and retrieving to provide movement., Many of the lures used for casting also work for trolling.

Jigging
Jigging means moving your bait in an up-and-down motion underwater. Lifting and lowering the rod is what provides the jigging motion. Leadheads are the most common kind of jigging lure or “jig”, but for some fish species, especially saltwater salmon and bottomfish, the jig might be a long, thin, slab of lead or other metal in the shape of a herring or other baitfish.

Fly fishing
Casting small, very light-weight artificial flies that simulate insects and other fish food requires weighted fishing line from very flexible rods and hand-controlled reels. The casting is different from other kinds of fishing because the weighted line is usually extended through a series of both forward and backward casting motions.

Knots

If you go fishing, you’re going to tie knots. A simple overhand (“granny”) knot won’t work for tying line to hooks, lures and swivels, for connecting two lines, or attaching line to your reel.  A hook snell, Palomar knot or improved clinch knot are used to tie monofilament line to a hook, lure, swivel or other terminal tackle. A blood knot joins two similar-size lines. The surgeon’s loop makes a loop at line’s end. An arbor knot is used to tie line to a reel spool. A nail knot splices backing or leader to a fly line. See the following illustrations and directions for tying these knots and practice before you go fishing.

Popular Fishing Knots

• Hook Snell
• Blood Knot
• Palomar Knot
• Improved Clinch Knot
• Nail Knot
• Surgeon's Loop
• Arbor Knot

Hook Snell A strong knot for tying line to a bait hook
		Insert one end of leader material through eye of hook just past turn and barb. Pass other end through eye in opposite direction leaving large loop.
		Hold both lines along shank. Use line hanging from eye to wind tight coils from eye toward hook, 5 to 10 turns.
		Move fingers to hole coils inplace. Oull leader extending from eye until entire loop has passed under coils. With coils snugged up neatly, use pliers to pull tag end, clinching up snout. Clip tag end and the loop knot in end of leader.

Blood Knot  Used to join two similar-size lines.
		Overlap ends of the two lines for about 6 inches. Take tag end of one line and make 6 turns around the two lines. Take tag end and insert between tag end of other line and standing end of the line being manipulated. Hold on to tag end and repeat procedure for other line.
		Pull each tag end to begin to tighten knot.
		Moisten knot. Tighten completely and clip tag ends.

Palomar Knot  Excellent for tying monofilament line to a hook, lure or terminal tackle.
		Double about 4 inches of line and pass loop through the eye.
		Let hook hang loose and the overhand knot in doubled line.
		Pull loop of the line far enough to pass over hook, swivel or lure.
		Pull tag end and standing line to tighten. Moisten before fully tightening. Clip tag end.

Improved Clinch Knot Used to tie monofiliment line to a swivel, lure or other terminal tackle.
		Pass line through eye of hook, swivel, or lure. Double back and make five turns around the standing line. Thread line through first loop above the eye. then through big loop as shown.
		Hold tag end standing line while coils are pulled up. Moisten and slide tight against eye. Clip tag end.

Nail Knot  Used to splice backing of leader to a fly line. A small plastic or metal tube works as well as a nail.
		Pull at least six inches of fly line and lay the tube against it. Then fold the line back around the tube or nail. Take the end of the backing or leader and place it through the loop formed in the fly line.
		Hold the line between your thumb and forefinger. Take the protruding end of the backing and wrap it loosely five to seven times back toward your thumb. Holding these coild so they won't overlap, bring the end of the backing and push it through the loose ends.
		Holding the coils, carefully pull out the tube or nail, pulling the backing out as much as possible at the same time. With the tube pulled out, the coils will appear soft, but don't let go of them. Pull form both ends to gather the coils.
		Adjust the coils as necessary and then pull hard on both ends to make the coils bite into the line. Tighten the knot and clip off the excess.

Surgeon's Loop  Used to make a loop at line's end.
		Double end of line to form a loop and tie overhand knot at base of double line.
		Leave loop open in knot and bring doubled line through one more.
		Hold standing end and tag end and pull loop to tighten knot.

Arbor Knot  Used to tie line to a reel spool.
		Thread line through line guide, around spool, and out through the gude. Tie overhand knot over standing line in end of tag end.
		Tightened both knots. Pull on standing end until knot passes through line guide and snugs up around spool.

Fishing equipment (tackle)

Rods and reels

Terminal (at-the-end-of-your-line) gear

• Hooks
• Lures
• Bait
• Floats or bobbers
• Sinkers
• Snap swivels

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Rods and reels

Spinning
Spinning rods and reels are very popular because they’re easy to use, allow long casts with light lures, and can be quite inexpensive. The first two or three line guides on a spinning rod are large, because the line “billows” off the end of the reel spool during the cast. To cast with a spinning reel, you open the wire “bail” that wraps line around the spool, holding the line with your index finger. Release the line as you move the rod forward and with a little practice you’re casting like a champ. Nylon monofilament line of 6- to 12-pound test works best on most spinning reels.

Spin-casting: Like a spinning reel, the spin-casting reel has a stationary spool, with line leaving and returning at one end of that spool. But the spool on the spin-casting reel is enclosed, so you can’t see it. The line is released by use of a thumb-button at the back of the reel.

Bait-casting: These reels differ greatly from both spinning and spin-cast reels because the spool sits perpendicular (cross-ways) to the rod rather than parallel to it. Because the spool moves during casting and retrieving, these reels are often called revolving-spool reels. Bait-casting tackle requires more practice, patience and skill than both spinning and spin-casting tackle, but once mastered, allows for pin-point casting accuracy and excellent line control when fishing and playing fish.

Fly-casting: As mentioned earlier, artificial flies are very light, making them virtually impossible to cast with most rods and reels. So fly casters use a special kind of line and a certain kind of rod that allow even the smallest of flies to be cast long distances. The line itself provides the casting weight, and the rod’s size and flexibility are matched to the line’s weight for best casting results. Fly-fishing line is thicker and more visible than other types of fishing line, so fly anglers use several feet of monofilament or other low-visibility material as a “leader” between the fly and the fly line.

Terminal (at-the-end-of-your-line) gear

Hooks: Fish hooks come in a wide range of sizes and styles, depending on the type of fishing and the size and species of fish you’re after.  Hooks consist of an “eye” or closed loop to attach the fishing line; a “shank” or horizontal extension; a “bend” that curves the shank down to the point; and a “barb” near the hook point to keep fish from sliding off once hooked. Most hooks have one point, but there are also double (two-pointed) and treble (three-pointed) hooks. Some hooks are incorporated into specific lures; others are attached below lures or bait.

Anatomy of a Fish Hook	Relative Hook Sizes

Lures:  Fish need to be lured to the hook with something that imitates their food or triggers their territorial behavior or provokes their curiosity. Lures types include:

• Spinners are pieces of metal or plastic, attached to the line directly above the hook, designed to spin in the water to attract fish.
• Spoons are similar to spinners, but usually bigger, heavier, and designed to move differently (wobble, wave, etc.) to attract fish.
• Spinner baits are combinations of spinners and artificial baits that camouflage the hook, attached opposite each other on a V-shaped base.

Spinners	Spoons	Spinner Baits

• Plugs are three-dimensional simulations of bait fish, often equipped with multiple hooks with multiple points.
• Jigs are lead-weighted hooks camouflaged in artificial baits designed for the up-and-down motion of jigging.
• Soft plastic lures simulate worms, grubs, fish, frogs and other natural fish food.
• Artificial flies: Artificial flies are items such as fur, feathers, thread, tinsel or other materials tied around a hook to resemble an insect, a grub, a minnow or some other small morsel that a fish might eat. They are sometimes put together at the fishing site, once the fish’s local food source is determined.

Plugs	Jigs	Artificial Flies

Bait: Anything that attracts fish by scent or flavor is considered bait, whether it’s a live worm, fish eggs, chicken livers, or an artificial device dipped in fish-attracting scent. Live fish are not allowed as bait in Washington sport fishing.

Floats or bobbers: Pieces of plastic, cork, or other material that floats are attached to fishing line above the lure and hook to suspend them in the water so they attract fish near the surface.

Floats	Sinkers

Sinkers: Pieces of metal, rubber, or other material that readily sinks are attached to the fishing line above the lure and hook to take them down into the water or to the bottom, to attract fish that feed in deeper water.

Snap swivels: These are locking clips that can be tied to the fishing line so lures can be attached and easily interchanged.

Fishing Terms (glossary)

While you don’t need to “talk fish” to catch one, it’s important to understand the basic terminology of Washington fishing regulations.  A more detailed list of fishing terms can be found in the "Fishing In Washington" rules pamphlet. Here are a few key phrases all Washington fishers need to know:

• Sportfishing:  Also known as recreational fishing, sportfishing refers to fishing activity that is not conducted for commercial sale of the catch.
  
  
• Recreational license: Recreational licenses are annual, state-issued licenses to fish or gather shellfish in Washington. Fishing licenses are required for fishing or shellfish gathering except during annual, Free fishing weekend (first weekend after the first Monday in June). License prices are discounted for resident fishers over age 70; youth 14 and under can fish without purchasing a license. Annual fishing licenses may be purchased in various forms—for freshwater fishing only, saltwater fishing only, combination fishing license, for shellfish/seaweed gathering, and for razor clam digging.  Temporary licenses also are available.  Licenses may be purchased online or at hundreds of retail outlets statewide..
  
  
• Seasons and rules: Fishing seasons and rules are specific, state regulations developed to ensure fish and shellfish resources are fairly shared and are not depleted.  Each year, non-commercial (sport) fishing seasons and rules are published by the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) in the "Fishing in Washington"  rules pamphlet, available on WDFW’s website and at recreational license dealer outlets. Fishing regulations include statewide fishing rules as well as specific rules by location, that may restrict the species, size and number of fish that may be taken, as well when fishing may take place, what types of fishing gear can be used or other factors. It’s important to check for specific rules for the location where you will be fishing and the species you intend to catch. The Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife enforces fishing regulations, and violators are subject to fines and penalties.  Additional fishing rules may apply within national or state parks.
  
  
• Emergency rule:  Also known as an “e-reg” (emergency regulation), an emergency rule is filed when it is determined that immediate action is necessary to change annual fishing rules.  Emergency rules are adopted to reflect “real time” changes in fish abundance, fishing activity or other factors. WDFW announces emergency rules on our fishing regulations website, on a Fishing Hotline (360-902-2500) or toll-free Shellfish Rule Change Hotline at (866) 880-5431 and through the news media. Fishers also may sign up to receive rule changes and other department news by email.
  
  
• Angling: Also known as “hook and line” fishing, angling is fishing for personal use (not for sale or barter) with a line attached to a pole that can be held in hand while landing fish, or by a hand-operated line without a rod and reel.
  
  
• Bait:  Anything that attracts fish by scent or flavor is considered bait, whether it’s a live worm, fish eggs, chicken livers, or an artificial device dipped in fish-attracting scent. It’s important to know that live fish are not allowed as bait in Washington sport fishing.
  
  
• Daily limit:  The maximum number (or pounds) of fish or shellfish of a given species and size that a fisher may legally keep in a single day.
  
  
• Food fish: This term refers to species that are harvested in commercial fisheries, although recreational fishers harvest them as well. Food fish include salmon, sturgeon, halibut, tuna, shad, mackerel, common carp and forage fish, such as smelt, sardines, herring, sand lance and anchovy.
  
  
• Game fish:  This term applies to fish that are exclusively harvested by sport (non-commercial) fishes. Game fish species including trout, bass, whitefish, steelhead and landlocked salmon. 
  
  
• Hatchery salmon:  Hatchery salmon are Chinook or coho salmon reared in a hatchery, rather than naturally spawned.  To identify them as hatchery fish, the adipose fin (on the back near the tail) is removed when they are juvenile fish.  Fishers can identify a hatchery fish by checking for a missing adipose fin and a healed scar at the location of the fin.
   
• Hatchery steelhead or trout:  Like hatchery salmon, except these species may be marked by either a missing adipose or ventral fin.
  
  
• Mark-selective fisheries: Developed to protect naturally spawning salmon or steelhead, while allowing fishers to target hatchery-produced fish. Selective fisheries require fishers to check their catch for a missing adipose fin, indicating the fish was marked in the hatchery.
  
  
• Jack salmon:  Salmon that return to rivers and streams at a younger age than most of their species.  In freshwater, a jack salmon is defined as a chinook salmon less than 24 inches in length or a coho salmon less than 20 inches in length. 
  
  
• Lure: Something that attracts fish to the hook by imitating the appearance of their food, by triggering their territorial behavior or by provoking their curiosity. Lures types include spinners, spoons, plugs, jigs and soft, plastic lures that simulate worms, grubs, fish, frogs and other natural fish food. 
  
  
• Night closure:  When a night closure is in effect, fishing is closed from one hour after official sunset to one hour before official sunrise.
  
  
• Selective gear rules:  In some waters, only unscented artificial flies or lures with one, single-point, barbless hook are allowed.  See the"Fishing in Washington" rules pamphlet for additional information. 
  
  
• Snagging:  Hooking any fish in a way that does not involve the fish voluntarily taking the hook(s) in its mouth.  In freshwater fishing, it is illegal to possess a fish hooked anywhere other than inside the mouth or on the head.
  
  
• Statewide rules:  Catch limits, size limits and other fishing regulations in effect for most—but not all—waters in the state.  Statewide rules are printed near the front of the "Fishing in Washington"rules pamphlet; exceptions to those rules are noted in fishing rules for specific waters.

Cooking and Recipes

Cooking fish
Cooking time is fairly short when cooking whole fish or fillets to keep the flavors simple. Fish are cooked when the flesh flakes off easily with a fork.

In general, the cooking time for fish is 10 minutes for every inch of thickness—whether you bake, poach, broil, or grill. To test for doneness, slip the point of a sharp knife into the thickest part of the fish and pull aside. If flakes begin to separate, the fish is probably done. Remove fish from heat and let it stand 3 to 4 minutes to finish cooking.

• Baking
  Rinse fish and pat dry with a paper towel. Whole fish may be stuffed with rice and vegetables. Place whole, boned fish in a baking pan. Brush with butter and oil and season with salt and pepper, or cover with a piquant sauce. Bake in a preheated oven at 400°F (200°C) until a knife slice in the thickest part reveals the flesh to be opaque but still moist.
• Grilling
  Place whole small fish or fillets on perforated aluminum foil over a greased grill, 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15cm) above prepared coals or fire. Baste with butter, oil, or marinade, and close hood of grill. Cook until opaque and moist on the inside, 6 to 8 minutes for fish less than 1 inch (2.5cm) thick; 10 to 15 minutes for fish larger than 1-inch (2.5cm) thick.
• Broiling
  Rinse whole fish, fillets, or boned and butterflied trout, and pat dry with a paper towel. Place fish on a rack above a baking dish. Preheat broiler and adjust oven rack so fish is 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10cm) from the element. Brush with butter or oil and season with salt and pepper. Broil, turning once, until fish is opaque but still moist in the center, 3 to 10 minutes, depending on size of the fish.
• Frying
  Rinse fillets, and pat dry with a paper towel. Dredge in flour and seasonings if desired. Shake off any excess flour. Heat frying pan until hot, then add butter or oil. Put in fillets and cook, turning once, until fish is opaque but still moist in the center, 2 to 10 minutes, depending upon size of the fish.
• Poaching
  Bring poaching liquid, consisting of water, broth, and herbs and spices, to a simmer. Slip fish in, then cover pan and keep liquid at a simmer for about 8 minutes per inch (about 2.5cm) of thickness.
• Steaming
  Place fish on a greased perforated rack over 1 to 2 inches (about 2.5 to 5cm) of rapidly boiling water. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and keep water at a constant boil through cooking time, 8 to 10 minutes per inch (about 2.5cm) thickness of fish.

Recipes

• Chum Salmon Recipes
  http://wdfw.wa.gov/fishing/salmon/chum/recipes.html

• Blackened Fish (presented by WDFW for the Black Friday event)

  Preheat cast iron skillet or griddle, preferably on outdoor grill, until very hot.

  Dip thick (at least one-half-inch) fish fillets into melted butter and then into cajun blackening spice mixture (equal parts black, white and cayenne pepper, paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, oregano, thyme).

  Cook in hot skillet about 2 minutes or until bottom is near black but not burned.

  Turn fillets, drizzle with more melted butter, continue cooking about 2 minutes. Serve immediately with dipping butter.

Cleaning and Preparing

• How to clean Trout
• Techniques and tips for cleaning and preparing Salmon and Steelhead
• Filleting Yellow perch (video)

Cleaning and Preparing

How to clean a trout

Supplies
Items you’ll need for killing, cleaning and transporting your fish include:

• a mallet,
• sharp fillet knife,
• hook remover,
• serrated knife,
• cutting board,
• small spoon,
• at least two buckets (for rinsing and discarding waste),
• cooler and ice.

Killing and bleeding trout
A freshly caught fish should be killed immediately and cleaned as soon as possible. Hold the fish in one hand and strike it on the head behind the eyes with a mallet. Remove the hook by grasping the shank with a pair of long-nosed pliers and backing it out. You can also use a special tool designed to remove hooks, available at sporting-goods stores.

Next, bleed the fish to prevent blood from spoiling the flesh. To do this, lift the gill plate, insert a knife over the gill cluster and cut the gills. Place the fish in a bucket of cold water to drain blood from the fish.

You then can clean the fish immediately or place it in a cooler to clean later. Either way, be sure there’s enough ice to surround the fish. Leave the cooler’s drain plug open to allow water to run out. Water spoils the flavor of fish.

Safely cleaning your fish:

1. Angle the knife to cut away from yourself.
2. Take your time
3. Remember the fish's mouth, gills, and bones can be sharp.

Cleaning

1. Hold the fish in the palm of your hand or place on a cutting board, belly up and head away from you. Locate the anus - a small, round vent on the lower belly of the fish. Insert the fillet knife a fraction of an inch directly above the hole and gently cut upward along the belly to the throat. Don't cut into the internal organs.
2. Turn the fish on its belly and make an incision across the top of the head behind the gills, but only cut to the backbone.
3. Place your fingers in the incision and pull the head forward. This movement will remove the head and guts. Discard in a waste container.
4. Scrape out the kidney-the long vein of blood that runs along the back bone- with your finger or a spoon.
5. Rinse in cold water.
6. Cut off the tail and discard if desired.
7. Rinse the fish in cold water and place in cooler with ice.

Cooking your fish
Cook your fish that day or refrigerate it for a day or two. Because fish flesh deteriorates when it sits in its own juices, place the fish on a rack in a shallow pan filled with crushed ice. Cover with cling wrap or foil and set in the coldest part of the refrigerator. Trout will store well this way for up to two days. Trout can be fried, grilled, broiled, poached, baked or steamed.

Cleaning and Preparing

Techniques and tips for cleaning and preparing Salmon and Steelhead

Supplies
Items you’ll need for killing, cleaning and transporting your fish include:

• a mallet,
• sharp fillet knife,
• hook remover,
• serrated knife,
• cutting board,
• at least two buckets (for rinsing and discarding waste),
• cooler and ice.

Killing and bleeding salmon and steelhead
A freshly caught steelhead or salmon should be killed immediately and cleaned as soon as possible. The most effective way to kill a salmon or steelhead is to hold it in one hand and strike it on the head behind the eyes with a mallet. Remove the hook by grasping it with your fingers or a pair of long-nosed pliers and backing it out. You can also use a special tool designed to remove hooks, available at sporting goods stores.

To prevent blood from spoiling the tissue, make several cuts in the gills (located under the gill flap below the eyes) with a knife and place the fish in a cold bucket of water. This allows the blood to flow out of the fish. Immediately clean the fish or place it on ice in a cooler.    

Safely cleaning your fish:

1. Angle the knife to cut away from yourself.
2. Take your time
3. Remember the fish's mouth, gills, and bones can be sharp.

Cleaning

1. Place the fish on the cutting board, belly up and head away from you. Locate the anus on the lower belly of the fish (small, round vent). Insert the fillet knife a fraction of an inch directly above the hole and gently cut upward along the belly to the throat. Don’t cut into the internal organs.
2. Turn the fish on its side to cut off the head. Start cutting behind the head below the gill flap and pectoral fin. Cut down until you hit the backbone. Take care not to cut any internal organs. The meat on this side of the fish should now no longer be attached to the head.
3. Turn your fish over and make a similar cut in the opposite side until you hit the backbone.
4. Place your fish in whatever position is most comfortable for you and cut through the backbone to detach the head. You may need a sharper, or serrated knife.
5. Pull out the guts of the fish. Discard the head and guts in a waste bucket.
6. Remove the kidney — the long, dark red organ running along the top of the cavity underneath the backbone by cutting through it along its length. Then scrape it out with a spoon or your knife.
7. Cut off the tail and discard in the bucket.
8. Wash the fish thoroughly in cold water and place in cooler with ice.

Your cleaned salmon can be cut either into fillets or steaks, as detailed below:

Filleting

1. Lay the fish on its side and start a cut where the head was removed, just above the backbone.
2. Using a sawing motion, cut along the backbone towards the tail. You may need to hold up the meat at the bottom of the cavity to keep it from getting sliced by the knife.
3. Keep cutting until you reach the end. You now have one large fillet.
4. Turn the fish over and begin cutting the other side just above the backbone.
5. Using the same sawing motion, cut along the backbone towards the tail, keeping the meat up out of the way of the knife. You now have two large fillets. The only meat not recovered is a small layer along the backbone.
6. Now you need to remove the ribs that are attached to the fillets. Begin by inserting the point of your knife into the meat at the first rib's mid-point, just beneath the rib, located toward the top of the fish. The meat and membrane between the ribs is semi-opaque so you should be able to see the knife blade through the meat. If you cannot see the blade then you've inserted the knife too deeply.
7. With a slow, gentle sawing motion, carefully cut towards the bottom of the fillet while keeping the sharp part of the blade angled slightly upwards to avoid getting too deeply into the meat. Your knife should be cutting right along the ribs.
8. If cut properly, you should have a small flap with the ribs, membrane, and a very minimal amount of meat. Using this technique, slowly work your way towards the thicker part of the fillet and towards the tail portion. You should end up with a long flap attached lengthwise to your fillet. This piece can be easily cut off.

A good photo tutorial on how to fillet a salmon may be seen on the Northwest Fly Fisherman website.

Steaking
Larger fish such as salmon and steelhead can be cut into steaks. After the fish is cleaned, chill it to make it easier to cut. Place the fish on its belly. Starting at the tail, cut across the backbone, making each steak approximately 1-inch thick. After making steaks, trim away belly fat and bones, but don’t cut out the backbone.