Kite Aerial
Photography (KAP)
KAP Rig
(brooxes basic brownie box)
by Scott
Calhoun, Mississippi State University
With
thanks to Brooks Leffler and the aerial eye
This aerial camera
mount is designed to use a KodakŪ MAX outdoor camera (the one without
the flash), triggering it with a KSB model airplane de-thermal timer.
The design could be adapted to other timers and cameras, though
specific dimensions would change. The rig is quite light - about
10 ounces ready to go - so it can be lofted in marginal conditions
where a larger facier rig could not.
Ingredients
I was able to
obtain all of the ingredients below from Walmart and a local building
supply store. I feel pretty confident that if you live in a community
as larger or larger than Starkville, MS (approximately 15,000) that
you can find everything that you need local to your area.
1/2" x
2" x 36" balsawood*
1/4" x 2" x 36" balsawood*
1/4" x 1" x 24" basswood
1/2" x 1/2" x 24" basswood
1 package small brass cup hooks
1 package assorted rubber bands
1 package small screw-eyes
1 standard paper clip
1 6-32 x 1 1/4" machine screw & 2 hex nuts
3 6-32 x 1 1/4" machine screw, w/ 2 flat washers, 1 lock
washer, & wing nut
1 1/16" x" 3/4" x 18" aluminum strap
2 small snap swivels
1 roll 30-50 ib test braided Dacron line
* basswood
or clear pine may be substituted
And a timer and
camera, of course.

Figure
1: Parts is Parts
For
tools, you will need a small hammer, a jigsaw, a drill (wood &
metal bits), and wood glue.
Assembly
1.
Cut box pieces as shown in Figure 2 from balsa, basswood, or clear
pine (balsa is used in the example photographs).
(A)
1/2" x 2" x 6 1/2", notched as shown (3/4"
x 1 3/4" 3/4" from top left, 1/2" from top right
(B) 1/2" x 2" x 4", notched as shown (1/2"
x 1 1/2" centered)
(C) 1/4" x 2" x 6"
(D) 1/4" x 2" x 5 1/2", notched as shown (1/2"
x 1" centered)

Figure
2: Brownie Box Cutouts
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Figure
3: Bare Box
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2.
Assembly cutouts as shown in Figure 3. Drill holes for all nails
(unless using balsa wood).
3.
Cut 2 x 5" pieces of 1/2" basswood and install as spacers
in bottom of the box as shown in Figure 4. These spacers hold the
camera in place as it sets in the rig. Cut an additional 5"
piece of 1/2" basswood to act as the shutter arm. This piece
is installed using a nail which is long enough to be inserted into
the slotted side of the box, go through the shutter arm and then
penetrate the opposite side of of slot. Be sure to pre-drill the
basswood shutter arm before you try and insert the nail. This nail
acts as a pivot for the shutter arm to move up and down (see Figure
4).
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Figure
4: Box w/ Spacers and Shutter Arm
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4. Before inserting
the shutter arm, drill a vertical hole (3/16") on the shutter
arm at the approximate location above where the camera shutter will
be when the rig is complete. Set the camera in the spacers and center
it. Temporarily set the shutter arm in the box slot and mark
where to drill the hole. Remove the shutter arm from box and drill
the 3/16" hole as marked. After the hole has been drilled,
twist a nut about half way onto a 1 1/4" machine screw, and
insert the screw into the shutter arm hole. Twist another nut onto
the screw and tighten. Then, drill an additional 1/16"
horizontal hole at the end of the shutter arm near at the same end
as the vertical 3/16" hole. Finally, insert the shutter arm
back into the box slot applying some wood glue on the nail to hold
it permanently in the box. Be sure not to get any glue on the nail
where it passes through the shutter arm. You want the shutter arm
to pivot freely around the nail (see Figure 4).
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Figure
5: Timer Insertion
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5.
Attach the KSB Timer in the large notch at the top of the side
of the box (model railroad track layout nails work great for this).
Be sure the timer wheel is towards the top and facing in, with
the switch on the bottom (see Figure 5).
6.
Attach a rubber band to the paper clip end of the shutter arm
with a lark's head knot.
7.
Screw two cuphooks on opposite side of the inside of the box.
Position them so that they are between the view finder and lens
of the camera (see Figure 6).
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Figure
6: Cuphooks, Rubberbands, and Nail
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8.
Drive a nail at the left front edge and left back edge of the
bottom of the box. Leave about 1/4" of the nail sticking
out (see Figure 6).
9.
Slide the camera into place between the spacers on the bottom
of the box and the cup hooks on the sides of the box. Align the
camera so the screw head on the shutter arm will contact the shutter
button on the camera (see Figure 6).
10.
Hook another rubber band between the cuphooks. Slide the rubber
band over the front (between the view finder and the lens) and
back of the camera to secure it in place. Check to be sure that
camera is seated sqaurely and securely (see Figure 6).
11.
Hook loose end of the shutter bar's rubber band to the front nail
in Step 8. and across to the back nail, so that the rubber band
describes a triangle from the front edge nail to the shutter bar
to the back edge nail. This allows for a small amount of adjustment
regarding the alignment of the shutter bar (see Figure 6).
*Please
note that the pictures do not reflect the rubber band triangle
described above. I chose to bend the machine screw to align it
to the shutter button (see Figure 7).
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Figure
7: Camera Alignment/Adjustment
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12.
Unbend a large end of a paper clip into a right angle and insert
this end through the hole in the end of the shutter arm closest
to the screw just installed. Bend the wire up to secure it to
the shutter arm and snip off the excess (see Figure 8).
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Figure
8: Brooxes Basic Brownie Box
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13.
Insert the free end of the paper clip through the knot below the
timer trigger hook. Cock the timer and turn the switch off. The
shutter arms should now be held up by the timer's trigger directly
above the shutter button of the camera (see Figure 8).
14.
Using a vise or large pliers, bend a piece of aluminum strap into
a squared U bracket with legs 6" long. Drill holes in the
center of each end of the strap 1/2" from the end, and another
in the base of the U bracket centered between the two bends. Drill
two more holes in each side of the box 2" to 2 1/2"
from the bottom. Using two 1 1/4" machine screws, washers,
lock washers, and wing nuts attach the U bracket to the rig (see
Figure 8).
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Figure
9: Test Picture
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15.
Cut two wood strips from the 1/4" x 1" basswood 6"
inches long. Drill a hole in the center of each strip large enough
for a machine screw. Screw a screw-eye into the top of each strip
at each end. Attach the strips to the top of the U bracket forming
an X pattern using the remaining 2" machine screw w/ screw
eyes up (see Figure 8).
16.Waste
a picture and test the timer and shutter release. The rubber band
tension should be enough to trip the shutter, but not so snappy
that it jars the camera. If you can advance the film after lifting
the shutter arm, ti worked (see Figure 9).

Figure
10: Suspension Lacing Pattern
17.
Attach a snap swivel to one end of the dacron line; this is point
A in Figure 10. Put the other swivel at B. Lace the line through
the screw-eyes and snap swivels as illustrated in Figure 10: A,
1, B, 4, A, 2, B, 3, A. Secure the loose end to swivel A. Even
out the lines and be certain there are no snags or tangels so
the line runs freely. Be sure and use enough line so that there
is 8-10 feet between swivel A and B when the rig is suspended
(see Figure 11).

Figure
11: Suspended Rig
You
are now ready to take aerial pictures!!
Operation
Tie
two running knots 5-8 feet apart
on your flying line at least 100 feet below a steady-flying kite.
To attach the camera rig, simply clip snap swivel A into the lower
running knot loop and snap swivel B into the upper loop. Set the
X-member level, adjust your cmera angle, and secure all wing nuts.
Be sure that the film is advanced, the shutter arm is cocked,
and the timer is set. Turn the time switch on and let 'er go!
The
time can be set to run for up to six minutes, but I've found that
1 1/2 to 2 minutes is plenty to achieve moderate altitude. Check
your watch when you start the time so you know about when the
shutter will snap. With low to moderate altitude, you may be able
to hear it go, or feel the line. When it does, walk the camera
down if ther's room by tethering the line and walking toward the
kite while letting the line run through your hand. Reset the shutter
arm and timer -- very important to do this first -- then advance
the film start the timer, and relaunch.
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