<
 
 
 
 
?
>
hide
You are viewing a Web site, archived on 09:59:53 Oct 15, 2004. It is now a Federal record managed by the National Archives and Records Administration.
External links, forms, and search boxes may not function within this collection.
Stennis Space Center Office of Education
 
Additional Info:

Selecting a Kite
Flying the Kite
Sample Images
 
     

Kite Aerial Photography (KAP)


KAP Rig (brooxes™ basic brownie box)
by Scott Calhoun, Mississippi State University
With thanks to Brooks Leffler and the aerial eye

This aerial camera mount is designed to use a KodakŪ MAX outdoor camera (the one without the flash), triggering it with a KSB model airplane de-thermal timer. The design could be adapted to other timers and cameras, though specific dimensions would change. The rig is quite light - about 10 ounces ready to go - so it can be lofted in marginal conditions where a larger facier rig could not.

Ingredients

I was able to obtain all of the ingredients below from Walmart and a local building supply store. I feel pretty confident that if you live in a community as larger or larger than Starkville, MS (approximately 15,000) that you can find everything that you need local to your area.

1/2" x 2" x 36" balsawood*
1/4" x 2" x 36" balsawood*
1/4" x 1" x 24" basswood
1/2" x 1/2" x 24" basswood
1 package small brass cup hooks
1 package assorted rubber bands
1 package small screw-eyes
1 standard paper clip
1 6-32 x 1 1/4" machine screw & 2 hex nuts
3 6-32 x 1 1/4" machine screw, w/ 2 flat washers, 1 lock washer, & wing nut
1 1/16" x" 3/4" x 18" aluminum strap
2 small snap swivels
1 roll 30-50 ib test braided Dacron line

* basswood or clear pine may be substituted

And a timer and camera, of course.

Illustration showing parts needed for the project
Figure 1: Parts is Parts

For tools, you will need a small hammer, a jigsaw, a drill (wood & metal bits), and wood glue.

Assembly

1. Cut box pieces as shown in Figure 2 from balsa, basswood, or clear pine (balsa is used in the example photographs).

(A) 1/2" x 2" x 6 1/2", notched as shown (3/4" x 1 3/4" 3/4" from top left, 1/2" from top right
(B) 1/2" x 2" x 4", notched as shown (1/2" x 1 1/2" centered)
(C) 1/4" x 2" x 6"
(D) 1/4" x 2" x 5 1/2", notched as shown (1/2" x 1" centered)

Illustration of the cut box pieces
Figure 2: Brownie Box Cutouts

Illustration of the assembled bare box

Figure 3: Bare Box

2. Assembly cutouts as shown in Figure 3. Drill holes for all nails (unless using balsa wood).

3. Cut 2 x 5" pieces of 1/2" basswood and install as spacers in bottom of the box as shown in Figure 4. These spacers hold the camera in place as it sets in the rig. Cut an additional 5" piece of 1/2" basswood to act as the shutter arm. This piece is installed using a nail which is long enough to be inserted into the slotted side of the box, go through the shutter arm and then penetrate the opposite side of of slot. Be sure to pre-drill the basswood shutter arm before you try and insert the nail. This nail acts as a pivot for the shutter arm to move up and down (see Figure 4).

Illustration of the box with spacers and shutter arm

Figure 4: Box w/ Spacers and Shutter Arm

4. Before inserting the shutter arm, drill a vertical hole (3/16") on the shutter arm at the approximate location above where the camera shutter will be when the rig is complete. Set the camera in the spacers and center it.  Temporarily set the shutter arm in the box slot and mark where to drill the hole. Remove the shutter arm from box and drill the 3/16" hole as marked. After the hole has been drilled, twist a nut about half way onto a 1 1/4" machine screw, and insert the screw into the shutter arm hole. Twist another nut onto the screw and tighten. Then, drill an additional 1/16"  horizontal hole at the end of the shutter arm near at the same end as the vertical 3/16" hole. Finally, insert the shutter arm back into the box slot applying some wood glue on the nail to hold it permanently in the box. Be sure not to get any glue on the nail where it passes through the shutter arm. You want the shutter arm to pivot freely around the nail (see Figure 4).

Illustration of the timer mounted into the box

Figure 5: Timer Insertion

5. Attach the KSB Timer in the large notch at the top of the side of the box (model railroad track layout nails work great for this). Be sure the timer wheel is towards the top and facing in, with the switch on the bottom (see Figure 5).

6. Attach a rubber band to the paper clip end of the shutter arm with a lark's head knot.

7. Screw two cuphooks on opposite side of the inside of the box. Position them so that they are between the view finder and lens of the camera (see Figure 6).

Illustration of the camera mounted in the box using cuphooks, rubberbands and a nail

Figure 6: Cuphooks, Rubberbands, and Nail

8. Drive a nail at the left front edge and left back edge of the bottom of the box. Leave about 1/4" of the nail sticking out (see Figure 6).

9. Slide the camera into place between the spacers on the bottom of the box and the cup hooks on the sides of the box. Align the camera so the screw head on the shutter arm will contact the shutter button on the camera (see Figure 6).

10. Hook another rubber band between the cuphooks. Slide the rubber band over the front (between the view finder and the lens) and back of the camera to secure it in place. Check to be sure that camera is seated sqaurely and securely (see Figure 6).

11. Hook loose end of the shutter bar's rubber band to the front nail in Step 8. and across to the back nail, so that the rubber band describes a triangle from the front edge nail to the shutter bar to the back edge nail. This allows for a small amount of adjustment regarding the alignment of the shutter bar (see Figure 6).

*Please note that the pictures do not reflect the rubber band triangle described above. I chose to bend the machine screw to align it to the shutter button (see Figure 7).

Illustration of the camera alignment and adjustment

Figure 7: Camera Alignment/Adjustment

12. Unbend a large end of a paper clip into a right angle and insert this end through the hole in the end of the shutter arm closest to the screw just installed. Bend the wire up to secure it to the shutter arm and snip off the excess (see Figure 8).

Illustration of the completed Brownie Box

Figure 8: Brooxes Basic Brownie Box

13. Insert the free end of the paper clip through the knot below the timer trigger hook. Cock the timer and turn the switch off. The shutter arms should now be held up by the timer's trigger directly above the shutter button of the camera (see Figure 8).

14. Using a vise or large pliers, bend a piece of aluminum strap into a squared U bracket with legs 6" long. Drill holes in the center of each end of the strap 1/2" from the end, and another in the base of the U bracket centered between the two bends. Drill two more holes in each side of the box 2" to 2 1/2" from the bottom. Using two 1 1/4" machine screws, washers, lock washers, and wing nuts attach the U bracket to the rig (see Figure 8).

A test photo taken without the kite.

Figure 9: Test Picture

15. Cut two wood strips from the 1/4" x 1" basswood 6" inches long. Drill a hole in the center of each strip large enough for a machine screw. Screw a screw-eye into the top of each strip at each end. Attach the strips to the top of the U bracket forming an X pattern using the remaining 2" machine screw w/ screw eyes up (see Figure 8).

16.Waste a picture and test the timer and shutter release. The rubber band tension should be enough to trip the shutter, but not so snappy that it jars the camera. If you can advance the film after lifting the shutter arm, ti worked (see Figure 9).

Illustration detailing the supension lacing pattern

Figure 10: Suspension Lacing Pattern

17. Attach a snap swivel to one end of the dacron line; this is point A in Figure 10. Put the other swivel at B. Lace the line through the screw-eyes and snap swivels as illustrated in Figure 10: A, 1, B, 4, A, 2, B, 3, A. Secure the loose end to swivel A. Even out the lines and be certain there are no snags or tangels so the line runs freely. Be sure and use enough line so that there is 8-10 feet between swivel A and B when the rig is suspended (see Figure 11).

Illustration showing the supended rig held by two volunteers

Figure 11: Suspended Rig

You are now ready to take aerial pictures!!

Operation

Tie two running knots 5-8 feet apart on your flying line at least 100 feet below a steady-flying kite. To attach the camera rig, simply clip snap swivel A into the lower running knot loop and snap swivel B into the upper loop. Set the X-member level, adjust your cmera angle, and secure all wing nuts. Be sure that the film is advanced, the shutter arm is cocked, and the timer is set. Turn the time switch on and let 'er go!

The time can be set to run for up to six minutes, but I've found that 1 1/2 to 2 minutes is plenty to achieve moderate altitude. Check your watch when you start the time so you know about when the shutter will snap. With low to moderate altitude, you may be able to hear it go, or feel the line. When it does, walk the camera down if ther's room by tethering the line and walking toward the kite while letting the line run through your hand. Reset the shutter arm and timer -- very important to do this first -- then advance the film start the timer, and relaunch.


Return to Home Page   Info for Teachers   Info for Students   Info for Leaders  

NASA Privacy Statement, Disclaimer and Accessibility Certification