The Volcanoes of Vancouver

The evening of the 29th brought us to an anchor in very thick rainy weather, about eight miles within the entrance on the southern shore of the supposed straits of De Fuca.

Our latitude at noon was 48^o 19'; longitude 236^o 19l; and the variation of the compass 18^o eastwardly. In this situation, the northern shore extended by compass from N. 82 W. to N. 51 E. ; between the latter, and the eastern extremity of the southern shore, bearing N. 88 E., we had still an unbounded horizon; whilst the island before mentioned, continuing to form the west extremity of the southern shore, bore S. 84 W. By these observations, which I have great reason to believe were correctly taken, the north promontory of Classet is situated in latitude 48^o 23'; longitude 235^o 38'. The smoothness of the sea, and clearness of the sky, enabled us to take several sets of lunar distances, which gave the longitude to the eastward of the chronometer, and served to confirm our former observations, that it was gaining very materially on the rate as settled at Otaheite. As the day advanced, the wind, which as well as the weather was delightfully pleasant, accelerated our progress along the shore. This seemed to indicate a speedy, termination to the inlet; as high land now began to appear just rising from that horizon, which, a few hours before, we had considered to be unlimited. Every new appearance, as we proceeded, furnished new conjectures; the whole was not visibly connected; it might form a cluster of islands separated by, large arms of the sea, or be united by land not sufficiently high to be yet discernable. About five in the afternoon, a long, low, sandy point of land was observed proiecting from the craggy shores into the sea, behind which was'seen the appearance of a well sheltered bay, and, a little to the S. E. of it, an opening in the land, prombim'g a safe and extensive port. About this time a very high conspicuous craggy mountain [Mount Baker], bearing by compass N- 50 E. presented itself, towering above the clouds as low down as they allowed it to be visible, it was covered with snow; and south of it, was a long ridge of very rugged snowy mountains [Cascade Mountain Range], much less elevated which seemed to stretch to a considerable distance.

As my intention was to anchor for the night under the low point, the necessary, signals were made to the Chatham; and at seven we hauled round it, at the distance of about a mile. This was, however, toco near, as we soon found ourselves in three fathoms water; but, on steering about half a ale to the north, the depth increased to ten fathoms, and we rounded the shallow Spit, which, though not very conspicuous, is shewn by the tide causing a considerable rippling over it. Having turned up a little way into the bay, we anchored on a bottom of soft sand and mud in 14 fathoms water. The low sandy point of land, which from its great .,,'resemblance to Dungeness in the British channel, I called NEW DUNGENSS, bore by compass N. 41 W. about three miles distant, from whence the low prejecting, land extends until it reaches a bluff cliff of a moderate height, bearing from us S. 60 W. about a league distant. From this station the shores bore the same appearance as those we had passed in the morning, composing one entire forest. Ile snowy mountains of the inland country were, however, neither so high nor so rugged, and were further removed from the sea shore. The nearest parts bore by compass from us, south about half a league off; the apparent port S. 50 E. about two leagues; and the south point of an inlet, seemingly very capacious, S 85 E.; with land appearing like an island, moderately elevated, lying before its entrance, from S. 85 E.; to N. 87 E.; and the S. E. extremity of that which now appeared to be southern shore, N. 71 E. From this direction round by the N and NW. the high distant land formed, as already observed, like detached islands, amongst which the lofty mountain, discovered in the afternoon by the third lieutenant, and in compliment to him called by me MOUNT BAKER, rose a very conspicuous object, bearing by compass N. 43 W. apparently at a very remote distance. ......

Since the vision of the southern continent, (from which the Incas of Peru are said to have originated,) has vanished; the pretended discoveries of De Fuca and De Fonte have been revived, in order to prove the existence of a northwest passage. These have been supported by the recent concurring opinions of modern traders, one of whom is said to conceive, that an openina still further to the north is that which De Fuca entered. Under this assertion, should any opening further to the northward be discovered leading to a N. W. passage, the merit of such discovery will necessarily be ascribed to De Fuca, De Fonte, or some other favorite voyager of these closet philosophers.

Prosecuting our labours as fishermen along the beach, we were led near a point similar to that we had passed, and distant from it about two miles; here the fog entirely dispersmiLy, afforded an opportunity of ascertaining its latitude to be 48^o 7' 30", its longitude 237^o 31 1/2' A very spacious inlet now presented itself, whose N. E. point, in a line with its S. W. being the point from which we had last departed, bore by compass N. 25 W. and seemed about a league asunder mount Baker bore N. 26 E.; a steep bluff point opposite to us, appearing to form the west point of another arm of this inlet, S. 87 E. about four miles distant; the nearest eastern shore S. 5^o E. about two miles; and a very remarkable high round mountain, covered with snow, apparently at the southern extremity of the distant range of snowy mountains before noticed, bore S. 45 E. [Mount Rainier] the shores of this inlet, like those in port Discovery, shoot out into several low, sandy, projecting points, the southernmost of which bore S. 9 E. distant about two leagues, where this branch of the inlet seethed to terminate, or take some other direction. Here we dined, and having taken the necessary angles, I directed Mr. Puget to sound the mid-channel, and Mr. Johnstone to ex-' amine the larboard or eastern shore, whilst I continued my, researches on the continental shore, appointing the southern-, most low point for our next rendezvous. As we advanced, the country seemed gradually to improve in beauty. The cleared spots were more numerous, and of larger extenq and the remote lofty mountains covered with snow, reflectedgreater luster on the fertile productions of the less elevated country. On arriving near our place of rendezvous, an opening was seen, which gave to the whole of the eastern shore under the examination of Mr. Johnstone, the appearance of being an island. For this we steered, but found ,it closed by a low sandy neck of land, about two hundred yards in width, whose opposite shore was washed by an extensive Salt lake, or more probably by an arm of the sea stretching to the S. E. and directing its main branch towards the high round snowy mountain we had discovered at noon but where its entrance was situated we could not determine though conjecture led to suppose it mould be found round the bluff point of land we had observed from our dinner station.

In the western comer of this isthmus was situated a deserted Indian village, much in the same state of decay as, that which we had examined at the head of port Discovery. No signs of any, inhabitants were discernible; nor did we visit it, it being expedient we should hasten to our appointed, station, as night was fast approaching, during which Mr. Johnstone did not join us; this led us to suppose he had found some entrance into the above lake or inlet that had escaped my notice; and which afterwards proved to have been thcause of his absence. Having determined the extent of this inlet, whose south extremity is situated in latitude 47^o 59' 4 1', longitude 237^o 31'; at day-break the next morning, Tuesday the 8th, we embarked in pursuit of the entrance into the lake or inlet that we had discovered the preceding evening.

To describe the beauties of this region, will, on some future occasion, be a very grateful task to the pen of a skilful panegyrist. The serenity of the climate, the innumerable pleasing landscapes, and the abundant fertility that unassisted nature puts forth, require only to be enriched by the industry ,of man with villages, mansions, cottages, and other buildings, to tender it the most lovely country that can be imagined; whilst the,labour of the inhabitants would be amply rewarded, into bounties which nature seems, ready to bestow on cultivation.

About noon; we passed an inlet on the larboard or eastern shore, which seemed to stretch far to the northward; but, am it was out of the line of our intended pursuit of keeping the continental shore on board, I continued our course up the main inlet, which now extended as far as, from the deck, the eye could reach, though, from the masthead, intervening land appeared, beyond which another high round mountain covered with snow was discovered, apparently situated several leagues to the south of mount Rainier, and bearing by compass S. 22 E. [Mount St. Helens] This I considered as a further extension of the eastern snowy range [Cascade Mountains]; but the intermediate mountains, connecting it with mount Rainier, were not sufficiently high to be seen at that distance. Having advanced about eight leagues from our last night's station, we'arrived off a projecting point of land, not formed I by a low sandy spit, but rising, abruptly in a low cliff about ten or, twelve flet from the, water side. Its- surface was a, beautiful, meadow covered-with luxuriant herbage;, on its, , western extreme, bordering, on, thewoods was,,an Indian village, consisting, of temporary habitations ...

Our situation being somewhat incommoded by the meeting of diffrent tides, we moved nearer in, and anchored in the same depth, and on the same bottom as before, very conveniently to the shore. Our eastern view was now bounded by the raneg of snowy mountains [Cascade Mountain Range] from mount Baker, bearing by compass north to mount Rainier, bearing N. [S] 54. E. The new mountain [Mount St. Helens] was 'hid by the more elevated parts of the low land the intermediate snowy mountains in various rugged and grotesque shapes, were seen just to rear their heads above the lofty pine trees, which appearing to compose one uninterrupted forest, between us and the snowy range, presented a most pleasing landscape; nor was our western destitute of similar diversification. The ridge of mouniais [Olympic Mountains] on which mount Olympus is situated, whose rugged summits were no less fancifully towering the forest than those on the eastern side, bounded to a considerable' extent our western horizion; on these however, not one conspicuous eminence arose, nor could we now distinguish that which on the sea coast appeared to be centrally situated, and forming an elegant bi-forked-mountain. From the southern extremity of these ridges of mountains, there seemed to be'an extensive tract of land moderately elevated and beautifully diversified by pleasing inequalities of surface, enriched with every appearance of fertility.

About four in the afternoon, agreeably to our expectations, the Chatham was seen from the mast head over the land and about sun-set she arrived and anchored near us. I . Broughton informed me, that the part of the coast he had been directed to explore, consisted of an archipelago of islands lying before an extensive arm of the sea stretching in a variety of branches between the N. W. north, and N. N. E. Its extent in the first direction was the most capacious, and presented an unbounded horizon.

On due consideration of all the circumstances that had fallen under my own observation, and the intelligence now imparted by Mr. Broughton, I became thoroughly convinced, that our boats alone could enable us to acquire any correct or satisfactory information respecting this broken country; and although the execution of such a service in open boats would necessarily be extremely laborious, and expose those so employed to numerous dangers and unpleasant situations, that might occasionally produce great fatigue, and protract their return to the ships; yet that mode was undoubtedly the most accurate, the most ready, and indeed the only one in our power to pursue for ascertaining the continental boundary.

The main arm of the inlet leading towards mount Rainier still remained unexplored. It became evident from the length of time Mr. Puget and Mr. Whidbey had been absent, that the inlet they bad been sent to examine, had led them to a considerable distance. We had no time to spare, and as it was equally evident none ought to be lost, I directed that Mr. Johnstone, in the Chatham's cutter, should accompany me in the morning, in the Discovery's yawl, for the purpose of examining the main arm; and that Mr. Broughton, on be return of our boats, which were now hourly expected, should take Mr. Whidbey in one of them, and proceed immediately to the investigation of that arm of this inlet, which we had passed on the eastern shore, stretching to the TV. TV. "E. ; and I desired that the Chatham might be anchored within its entrance in some conspicuous place on the starboard side, where the Discovery or the boats would easily find her, in case the result of my inquiries should render it expedient for the vessels to proceed further in that direction.

Having advanced in a direction S. 32 W. about three leagues from the south, or inner point of entrance, into an opening, situated in latitude 47^o 19 1/2' , longitude 237^o 42', we halted about eight in the evening for the night, on a small island, lying about a mile from the eastern shore. The general character of the situation in which we had now arrived, indicated it to be a continuation of the main branch of the inlet, we had been thus long navigating. The insular appearance of its western side, the rapidity of the flood tide, and its increasing width, gave us reason to suppose we should find it still more extensive. Whilst employed in arranging our matters for the night, we discovered, coming out of the southernmost opening, two small vessels, which, at first, were taken for Indian canoes, but, on using our glasses, they were considered to be our two boats. The evening was cloudy; and, closing in very soon, prevented a positive decision. The original idea was, however, somewhat confirmed on firing two muskets, which were not answered. During the night, we had some rain, with a fresh gale from S. E. w c a ated by the morning; the rain still continued, but not so violently as to prevent our proceeding. At four o'clock on Sunday morning, the 27th, we again embarked, and steered about S. W. by S.; in which direction the inlet seemed to shetch to some distance; and the appearance of the southern land gave rise to an opinion of its terminating in a river. ......

Late on the preceding Saturday night, or rather on Sunday morning, our other party had returned. It was them we had seen the hrst evening of our excursion from the island, and they very distinctly saw our fire; but as they did not hear the report of the muskets, concluded it a fire of the natives, not having the least idea of any of our boats being in that neighborhood. They had explored all those parts of the inlet we had passed by, and found the three openings we had left unexamined, the ffirst afternoon, leading to the westward, to be channels dividing that shore into three islands; and those we had not attended to on Monday morning formed two small branches leading to the S.W.; the westernmost of which extends to the latitude 47^o 61' about two leagues to the westward of our researches in that direction; that in which the deer was shot communicated with the S. W. branch of tk' inlet by a very narrow channel. They had also passed the opening we had pursued leading towards mount Rainier; but agreeably to my directions had not prosecuted its examination; the termination of every other opening in the land they had ascertained. Thus by our joint efforts, we had completely explored every turning of this extensive inlet; and to commemorate Mr. Puget's exertions, the south extremity of it I named PUGET SOUND. I was well aware, it could not be considered judicious to part with our launch, whilst the ship remained in a transitory unfixed state in this unknown and dangerous navigation; yet she was so essentially necessary to the protection of our detached parties, that I resolved to encounter some few difficulties on board, rather than suffer the delay, or lose so valuable an opportunity for the prosecution of the survey. In directing this, orders were given not to examine any opertings to the northward, beyond Strawberry bay, but to determine the boundaries of the continental shore leading to the north and eastward, as far as might be practicable to its parallel, whither they were to resort after performing the task assigned. On this service they departed, and directed their course for the first opening on the eastern shore about 3 or 4. leagues distant, bearing by compass ftom the ship N. by E.

Having repaired to the low sandy island already noticed, for the purpose of taking some angles, I found some rocks lying on its western side nearly three quarters of a mile from its shores; and that the eastern part of it was formed by a very narrow~ low spit of land, over which the tide nearly flowed. Its situation is in latitude 48^o 24', longitude 237^o 26 1/2 ' . Amongst the various bearings that it became necessary to take here, were those of the two remarkably high snowy mountains so frequently mentioned. Mount Baker bore N. 63 E.; mount Rainier S. 27 E.; and from a variety of observations purposely made for fixing their respective situations, it appeared that mount Baker was in latitude 48^o 39', longitude 238^o 2o', and mount Rainier in latitude 47^o 3', longitude 238^o zil. To the southward of these were now seen two other very lofty, round, snowy mountains, lying apparently in the same north and south direction, or nearly so; but we were unable to ascertain their positive situation. [Mount St. Helens and ??? ... Mount Adams ???] The summits of these were visible only at two or three stations in the southern parts of Admiralty inlet; they appeared to be covered with perpetual snow as low down as we were enabled to see, and seemed as if they rose from an extensive plain of low country.

We proceeded first toi the north-eastward, passing the branch of the gulf that had beeri partly examined, and then directed our course to the N. W. along that which appeared a continuation of the continental shore, formed by low sandy cliffs, rising from a beach of sand and stones. The country moderately elevated, stretched a considerable distance from the N. W. round to the south-eastward, before it ascended to join the range of rugged snowy mountains. This connected barrier, from the base of mount Baker, still continued very lofty, and appeared to extend in a direction leading to the westward of north. The soundings along the shore were regular, from 12 to 25 and 30 fathoms, as we approached, or increased our distance from, the land, which seldom exceeded two milesthe opposite side of the gulf to the south-westward, composed of numerous islands, was at the distance of about two leagues. As the day advanced, the S. E. wind gradually died away, and, for some hours, we remained nearly stationary.

In the evening, a light breeze favoring the plan I had in contemplation, we steered for a bay that presented itself, where, about six o'clock, we anchored in six fathoms water, sandy bottom, half a mile from the shore. The points of the bay bore by compass S 32 W. and N. 72 W.; the westernmost part of that which we considered to be the main land west, about three leagues distant; to the south of this point appeared the principal direction of the gulf, though a very considerable arm seemed to branch from it to the northeastward. ......

From point Grey we proceeded first up the eastern branch of the sound, where, about a league within its entrance, we passed to the northward of an island which nearly terminated its extent, forming a passage from ten to seven fathoms deep, not more than a cable's length in width. This island lying exactly across the channel, appeared to form a similar passage to the south of it, with a smaller island lying before it. From these islands, the channel, in width about half a mile, continued its direction about east. ......

We landed for the right about half a league from the head of the inlet, and about three leagues from its entrance. ...... The shores in this situation were formed by steep rocky cliffs, that afforded no convenient space for pitching our tent, which compelled us to sleep in the boats. Some of the young gentlemen, however, preferring the stony beach for their couch, without duly considering the line of high water mark, found themselves incommoded by the flood tide, of which they were not apprized until they were nearly afloat; and one of them slept so sound, that I believe he might have been conveyed to some distance, had he not been awakened by his companions.

As we passed the situation from whence the Indians had first visited us the preceding day, which is a small border of low marshy land on the northern shore, intersected by several creeks of fresh water, we were in expectation of thier company, but were disappointed, owing to our travelling so soon in the morning. Most of their canoes were hauled up into the creeks, and two or three only of the natives were seen straggling about on the beach. None of their habitations could be discovered, whence we concluded that their village was within the forest. Two canoes came off as we passed the island, but our boats being under sail with a afresh favorable breeze, I was not inclined to halt, and they almost immediately returned.

The shores of this channel, which after Sir Harry Burrard of the navy, I have distinguished by the name of BURRARD'S CHANNEL, may be considered, on the southern side of a moderate height, and though rocky,'well covered with trees of a large growth, principally of the pine tribe. On the. northern side, the rugged snowy barrier, whose base we had now nearly approached, rose very abruptly, and was only protected from the wash of the sea by a very narrow border of low land. By seven o'clock we had reached the N. W. point of the channel, which forms also the south point of the main branch of the,sound this also, after another particular friend, I called POINT ATKINSON, situated north from point Grey, about a league distant. Here the opposite point of the entrance into the sound bore by compass west, at the distance of about three miles; and nearly in the center between these two points, is a low rocky island producing some trees, to which the name Of PASSAGE ISLAND was given. We passed in an uninterrupted channel to the east of it, with the appearance of an equally good one on the other side.

Quitting point Atkinson, and proceeding up the sound, we passed on the western shore some detached rocks, with some sunken ones amongst them, that extend about two miles, but are not so far from the shore as to impede the navigation of the sound; up which we made a rapid progress, by the assistance of a fresh southerly gale, attended with dark gloomy weather, that greatly added to the dreary prospect of the surrounding country. The low fertile shores we had been accustomed to see, though lately with some interruption, here no longer existed; their place was now occupied by the base of the stupendous snowy barrier, thinly wooded, and rising from the sea abruptly to the clouds; from whose frigid summit, the dissolving snow in foaming torrents rushed down the sides and chasms of its rugged surface, exhibitin altogether a sublime, though gloomy spectacle, which animated nature seemed to have deserted. Not a bird, nor living creature was to be seen, and the roaring of the falling cataracts in every direction precluded their being heard, had any been in our neighborhood.

Towards noon I considered that we had advanced some miles within the western boundary of the snowy barrier, as some of its rugged lofty mountains were now behind, and to the southward of us.

This filled my mind with the pleasing hopes of finding our way to its eastern side. The sun shining at this time for a few minutes afforded an opportunity'of ascertaining the latitude of the east point of an island which, ftom the shape of the mountain that composes it, obtained the name of ANVIL ISLAND, to be 49^o 30', its longitude 237^o 3'

-- From: Pringle, 1993, Roadside Geology of Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument and Vicinity: Washington State Department of Natural Resources, Division of Geology and Earth Resources Information Circular 88

At one o'clock they quitted their dinner station, and after rowing about five miles still in the direction of the river S. 5 E., they passed on the western side of a small river leading to the southwestward; and half a mile further on the same shore came to a larger one that took a more southerly course. In the entrance of the latter, about a quarter of a mile in width, are two small woody islets; the jacent country extending from its banks presented a most beautiful appearance. This river Mr. Broughton distinguished by the name of River Mannings [Willamette River]. Its southern point of entrance, situated in latitude 45 degrees 39 minutes, longitude 237 degrees 21 minutes; commanded a most delightful prospect of the surrounding region, and obtained the name of Belle Vue Point [eastern end of Sauvie Island]; from whence the branch of the river, at least that which was so considered, took a direction about S. 57 E. for a league and a half. A very high, snowy mountain now appeared rising beautifully conspicuous in the midst of an extensive tract of low or moderately elevated land lying S 67 E., and seemed to announce a termination to the river. From Belle Vue Point [eastern end of Sauvie Island] they proceeded in the above direction, passing a small wooded island, about three miles in extent, situated in the middle of the stream. Their route was between this island and the southern shore, which is low; the soundings between its northwest point and the main land were three fathoms, increasing to four, five and six off its southeast point; from whence the river took its course S 75 E. This obtained the name of Menzies' Island [Hayden Island], near the east end of which is small sandy, woody island that was covered with wild geese. From Belle Vue Point [eastern end of Sauvie Island] a small stream of flood had attended them to this station; but here a rapid downward current was met, though it was by no means high water.

Excerpts from: The Exploration of the Columbia River by Lieutenant W.R. Broughton, October, 1792. An Extract from the Journal of Captain George Vancouver: From the Press of the Longview Daily News, Longview, Washington, 1926.