Are cosmetic products containing alpha hydroxy acids safe?

Derived from fruit and milk sugars and found in numerous creams and lotions, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) attract customers with their supposed ability to reduce wrinkles, spots, and other signs of aging, sun-damaged skin. Some scientific evidence suggests they may work.

But are these products safe? Since 1989, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has received more than 100 reports of adverse reactions in people using AHA products. Their complaints included severe redness, swelling (especially in the area of the eyes), burning, blistering, bleeding, rash, itching, and skin discoloration.

Considering the question of safety, FDA and dermatologists advise consumers who use AHA products to follow these precautions:

• Always protect your skin before going out during the day. Use a sunscreen product with a SPF (Sun Protection Factor) of at least 15. Wear a hat with a brim of at least 4 inches (about 10 centimeters). Cover up with lightweight, loose-fitting, long-sleeved shirts and pants.

• Buy products with adequate label information: for example, a list of ingredients to see which AHA or other chemical acids are in the product; the name and address of the manufacturer or distributor; and a statement about the product's AHA concentration and pH level. The first two pieces of information are mandatory; the third is optional. Consumers can call or write the manufacturer, however, to get information about a product's AHA concentration and pH level.

• Buy only products with an AHA concentration of 10 percent or less and a pH of 3.5 or greater.

• Do a skin-sensitivity test on a patch of skin if you are a first-time user of any AHA product or are using a different brand or a product with a different concentration or pH than you are use to.

• Stop using the product immediately if you experience adverse reactions (i.e. mild irritation, stinging, redness, itching, burning, pain, and bleeding or change in sun sensitivity).

• If you have an adverse reaction, see a dermatologist. You also can report your adverse reaction yourself to FDA. Reports can be made to local FDA offices, listed in the Blue Pages of the phone book or to the CFSAN Adverse Event Reporting System (CAERS) by phone at 301-436-2405 or email at .