The Volcanoes of Lewis and ClarkApril 4 - 5, 1806 |
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-- The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark Map of the Journey -- Volcanoes, Basalt Plateaus, Major Rivers, etc. CALENDAR of the Journey -- October 1805 to June 1806 Along the Journey -- Pacific Northwest Maps - Columbia River, Volcanoes, Flood Basalts, Missoula Floods, Geology, etc. The Corps of Discovery -- The Journey of Lewis and Clark About the Reference Materials -- The Journals, Biddle/Allen, DeVoto, Gass, Moulton, Topo Maps, and others USGS Lewis and Clark Links -- Links to USGS Websites highlighting the Lewis and Clark Journey Resources Publications Referenced and Websites Visited |
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April 3 On the Banks of the Columbia, Five Volcanoes and a Side-Trip Up the Willamette |
April 4-5
Back on the Columbia, The Willamette Valley Cottonwood Beach Camp, Multnomah Channel, Willamette River, Sauvie Island, Puget Trough and Willamette Valley, Boring Lava Field |
CONTINUE
April 6-8 Columbia River Gorge, Cottonwood Beach Camp to Shepperd's Dell |
| On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes. |
| The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark |
| Heading Home - April 1806 |
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Back on the Columbia The Willamette Valley |
| Between March 31 and April 6, 1806 the Corps of Discovery camped near present day Cottonwood Beach in Washougal. From this campsite, William Clark also led a group of men back down the Columbia to discover the Willamette River, which they had missed on both their outward and return voyages. |
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Cottonwood Beach:
Cottonwood Beach: Between March 31 and April 6, 1806 the Corps of Discovery camped near present day Cottonwood Beach in Washougal. From this campsite, William Clark also led a group of men back down the Columbia to discover the Willamette River, which they had missed on both their outward and return voyages. Presently, the cities of Washougal and Camas, Port of Camas/Washougal, and the Clark County Parks Department, are collaborating on creating a regional park at this location and it has been named Capt. William Clark Park at Cottonwood Beach. -- City of Washougal, Washington, Website, 2002 |
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The hunters were still out in every direction.
Those from the opposite side of the river returned
with the flesh of a bear and some venison,
but the flesh of six deer and an elk which they had killed was so meagre
and unfit for use, that they had left it in the woods.
Two other deer were brought in, but as the game seemed poor, we
despatched a large party to some low grounds on the south,
six miles above us, to hunt there until our arrival. As
usual many of the Indians came to our camp, some descending
the rivers with their families, and others from below
with no object except to gratify their curiosity.
The visit of captain Clarke to the Multnomahs, now enabled us to combine all that we had seen or learnt of the neighbouring countries and nations. Of these the most important spot is Wappatoo island [Sauvie Island - see below], a large extent of country lying between the Multnomah [Willamette River], |
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Willamette River:
Willamette River: Most of Oregon's population, technology and agricultural centers, and important transportion, power, and communications lifelines are located in the Willamette Valley of western Oregon. The lowlands of the Willamette Valley extend about 75 miles along the Willamette River and contain the major cities of Portland, Salem, Corvallis, and Eugene. The valley is part of the Willamette River drainage basin, which covers 12,300 square miles between the crest of the Oregon Coast Range on the west and the Cascade Range to the east. The Willamette River is the largest river in the valley and is fed by several major tributaries, including the McKenzie, Calapooia, Santiam, Tualatin, Yamhill, and Clakamas Rivers. The valley is the major source of ground and surface water for the population centers. -- Givler and Wells, 2001 |
| and an arm of the Columbia, which we have called Wappatoo inlet [Multnomah Channel], and separated from the main land by a sluice eighty yards wide which at the distance of seven miles up the Multnomah [Willamette River] connects that river with the inlet. |
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Multnomah Channel:
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| The island [Sauvie Island] thus formed is about twenty miles long, and varies in breadth from five to ten miles: the land is high and extremely fertile, and on most parts is supplied with a heavy growth of cottonwood, ash, the large-leafed ash, and sweet willow, the black alder, common to the coast, having now disappeared. But the chief wealth of this island consists of the numerous ponds in the interior, abounding with the common arrowhead (sagittaria sagittifolia) to the root of which is attached a bulb growing beneath it in the mud. This bulb, to which the Indians give the name of wappatoo, is the great article of food, and almost the staple article of commerce on the Columbia. ...... |
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Sauvie Island:
Sauvie Island: Sauvie Island contains approximately 24,000 acres of land and lakes, and had its origin in alluvial deposits from the Columbia and Willamette rivers as their velocities decreased by changes in direction and by lava extrusions located on the north end. The island is 16 miles long and 4.5 miles at the widest point. The Sauvie Island wildlife area includes 8,053 acres of deeded land and 3,490 acres of land leased from the Division of State Lands for wildlife management purposes. The island is bounded on the east by the Columbia River; on the south by the Willamette River and on the west by the Multnomah Channel. Across the river on the Washington side, Scappoose Bay provides fish and wildlife habitat. Sauvie Island is the largest island in the Columbia River, and is for the most part low land and lakes. The highest point on the island is only about 50 feet above sea level. Lewis and Clark called it 'Wap-pa-to' and 'Wap-pa-too', the Indian name for the arrowhead or sagittaria. This was the wild potato, a valuable article of Indian food. Broughton visited the island in 1792 and named the western end of the island "Warrior Point" and the upstream point "Belle Vue Point." Lewis and Clark first visited the island on November 4, 1805. N.J. Wyeth built Fort William on this island in 1834-35 and some early maps have the name Wyeth Island. Wilkes used the name Multnomah Island. The name Sauvie Island comes from a French-Canadian employee of the Hudson's Bay Company who worked at the dairy farm on the west side of the island. The lettering Sauvies Island appears on Preston's 'Map of Oregon', 1856. The U.S. Board of Geographic Names adopted the style Sauvie Island ranther than the possessive Sauvies Island. -- McArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names, Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002, Oregon State Archives Website, 2002, and Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 Geology of Sauvie Island: Both the northern quarter-mile of the tip of Sauvie Island and the usually submerged Warrior Rock are composed of the hard black Columbia River basalt that also underlies the city of St. Helens. These basalts are part of the series of lava flows that came down the ancestral Columbia River valley 12 million to 14 million years ago. Warrior Rock is a basalt reef that lies beneath the surface of the Columbia River during high water, near the east side of Sauvie Island, 3/4-mile south of its northern tip. Warrior Rock takes it name from Warrior Point, the prominent basalt pinnacle that stands 38 feet above sea level near the north end of Sauvie Island. -- Allen, 1985 |
| This valley [Willamette Valley and Puget Trough] is bounded westward by the mountainous country bordering the coast [Coast Range], from which it extends eastward thirty miles in a direct line, till it is closed by the range of mountains [Cascade Mountain Range] crossing the Columbia above the great falls [Celilo Falls]. Its length from north to south we are unable to determine, but we believe that the valley must extend to a great distance: it is in fact the only desirable situation for a settlement on the western side of the Rocky mountains, and being naturally fertile, would, if properly cultivated, afford subsistence for forty or fifty thousand souls. The highlands are generally of a dark rich loam, not much injured by stones, and though waving, by no means too steep for cultivation, and a few miles from the river they widen at least on the north side, into rich extensive prairies. ...... |
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Puget Trough and Willamette Valley:
Puget Trough and Willamette Valley: The Puget-Willamette Lowlands extend from the United States-Canadian border south to Eugene, Oregon, between the Coast Ranges and the Cascade Mountains. The climate is subhumid to humid. The northern part is a flat glacial plain interrupted by the complex bays and inlets of Puget Sound. The southern part of the lowlands consists of alluvial valleys along the Cowlitz, Columbia, and Willamette Rivers. Most of Oregon's population, technology and agricultural centers, and important transportion, power, and communications lifelines are located in the Willamette Valley of western Oregon. The lowlands of the Willamette Valley extend about 75 miles along the Willamette River and contain the major cities of Portland, Salem, Corvallis, and Eugene. The valley is part of the Willamette River drainage basin, which covers 12,300 square miles between the crest of the Oregon Coast Range on the west and the Cascade Range to the east. The Willamette River is the largest river in the valley and is fed by several major tributaries, including the McKenzie, Calapooia, Santiam, Tualatin, Yamhill, and Clakamas Rivers. The valley is the major source of ground and surface water for the population centers. -- Radbruch-Hall, et.al., 1982, USGS Professional Paper 1183, and Givler and Wells, 2001 Geology of the Willamette Valley: The Willamette valley consists of four sub-basins: the southern and northern Willamette basins, the Tualatin basin, and the Portland basin. The Waldo Hills separate the southern Willamette basin from the northern basin, and the Chehalem Mountains separate the northern basin from the Tualatin Basin. Northeast of the Tualatin basin, the Tualatin Mountains form the divide with the Portland Basin. The Willamette Valley lies within a fore-arc basin between the Cascade Volcanic Arc and the Coast Ranges that may have originated in early Tertiary time. Some of the sub-basins have accumulated several hundred meters of sediment in late Cenozoic time. The northern basins also contain lavas of the Miocene Columbia River Basalt Group (CRBG). Flows of the CRBG entered the valley approximately 16 million years ago through a low in the Cascade Range and spread into the Portland and northern Willamette basins. The Tualatin Mountains, Chehalem Mountains, Waldo Hills, and Salem Hills are largely composed of CRBG flows that dip inward toward the basin centers. Approximately 3.0 million to 260,000 years ago, the Boring Lavas were erupted from several vents throughout the northern Willamette, Portland, and Tualatin basins. Boring Lavas capped the Oregon City plateau and created many of the prominent small cone-shaped hills and mountains southeast of downtown Portland. Between 15,000 and 12,700 years ago catastrophic floods from glacial Lake Missoula inundated the majority of the Willamette Valley. These floods reached up to 120 meters above sea level covering the valley with up to 35 meters of sediment and depositing ice-rafted boulders foreign to the Willamette Valley as far south as Eugene, Oregon. -- Gannett and Caldwell 
Boring Lava Field:
Boring Lava Field: Metropolitan Portland, Oregon, and an area east of Vancouver, Washington, includes most of a Plio-Pleistocene volcanic field. Approximately 3.0 to 0.26 million years ago, the lavas were erupted from several vents throughout the northern Willamette, Portland, and Tualatin basins. The Boring Lava includes at least 32 and possibly 50 cinder cones and small shield volcanoes lying within a radius of 13 miles of Kelly Butte. Kelly Butte is 62 miles west of Mount Hood and the High Cascade axis, and 4 miles east of downtown Portland, Oregon. Boring lava vents have been inactive for at least 300,000 years. -- Allen, 1990, and Givler and Wells, 2001 |
| The nations who inhabit this fertile neighbourhood are very numerous. The Wappatoo inlet extends three hundred yards wide, for ten or twelve miles to the south, as far as the hills near which it receives the waters of a small creek whose sources are not far from those of the Killamuck river [Wilson River ??]. On that creek resides the Clackstar nation, ...... Forty miles above its junction with the Columbia, it receives the waters of the Clackamos [Clackamas River], a river which may be traced through a woody and fertile country to its sources in mount Jefferson, almost to the foot of which it is navigable for canoes. ...... Two days' journey from the Columbia, or about twenty miles beyond the entrance of the Clackamos [Clackamas River], are the falls of the Multnomah [Willamette Falls, Oregon City]. At this place are the permanent residences of the Cushooks and Chahcowahs, two tribes who are attracted to that place by the fish, and by the convenience of trading across the mountains and down Killamuck river [Wilson River ??], with the nation of Killamucks, from whom they procure train oil. These falls were occasioned by the passage of a high range of mountains; beyond which the country stretches into a vast level plain, wholly destitute of timber. |
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Willamette Falls:
Willamette Falls: Long before pioneers crossed the continent in their covered wagons and challenged the British claim to the Pacific Northwest, the area in the Willamette Valley now known as Oregon City was the center of commerce and culture for the Native American tribes of the region. The Indians had been attracted by the Falls of the Willamette River, one of the biggest salmon fishing holes in the American West. In the early 1800s Americans made sporadic efforts to set up competing trading posts, but did not seriously challenge British sovereignty until the 1840s. By then Chief Factor John McLoughlin of the Hudson Bay Company, a loyal British subject, but now recognized by his adopted country as the "Father of Oregon," had been in control of the area for about 20 years. His goal was the colonization of the area, which he began at Willamette Falls (called Oregon City by the Americans) to take advantage of the falling water which would supply power for mills. McLoughlin's claims to mill sites at Willamette Falls were wrested from him in a conspiracy by a handful of prominent early American pioneer settlers. -- Library of Congress Website, 2002, "End of the Oregon Trail" Willamette Falls Locks: It was a cold Wednesday morning on Jan. 1, 1873, when the Willamette Falls Locks opened its gates to river traffic traveling along the Willamette River, allowing safe portage around the 40-foot high Willamette Falls. The opening of the locks gave birth to new competition and safer travels for boats making the journey between Portland and the river cities in the Willamette Valley. Willamette Falls Locks was the first water resource project in Oregon. It has been designated a National Historic Site and an Historic Engineering Site. The original lockmaster's office has been converted into a museum, and displays photographs of the historic locks that have been in operation since 1873. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002 |
| As far as the Indians, with whom we conversed, had ever penetrated that country, it was inhabited by a nation called Calahpoewah, a very numerous people whose villages, nearly forty in number, are scattered along each side of the Multnomah [Willamette River], which furnish them with their chief subsistence, fish, and the roots along its banks. ...... |
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The Camp - March 31 through April 5, 1806:
Between March 31 and April 6, 1806 the Corps of Discovery camped near present day Cottonwood Beach in Washougal. [See March 31, 1806 entry] |
| We dried our meat as well as the cloudy weather would permit [April 5, 1806] ...... Having made our preparations of dried meat, we set out the next morning [April 6, 1806] |
| "... Sergt. Gass & 2 other of the hunters returnd. with 3 Small black cubs which was sold to the Savages I and 5 more men went over to the S. Side and climbed a high River hill on which is excelent rich land ... the River hills are high above Quick Sand River Some of the clifts is 200 feet high. on the tops of those hills the land is excessively rich and thickly timbred with different Species of Fir intermixed with white cedder. I Saw one of the Fir trees which is 100 and 4 feet in length ..." [Ordway, April 5, 1806] |
| "... The weather was pleasant. There is a beautiful prairie and a number of ponds below the mouth of Sandy river; and about two miles from the Columbia the soil is rich with white cedar timber, which is very much stripped of its bark, the natives making use of it both for food and clothing ..." [Gass, April 5, 1806] |
| "... The Hunters & Serjt. Pryor informe us that they had measured a tree on the upper side of quick sand River 312 feet long and about 4 feet through at the stump. ..." [Clark, April 5, 1806] |
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The Camp - March 31 through April 5, 1806:
Between March 31 and April 6, 1806 the Corps of Discovery camped near present day Cottonwood Beach in Washougal. [See March 31, 1806 entry] |
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