The Volcanoes of Lewis and ClarkApril 15 - 17, 1806 |
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-- The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark Map of the Journey -- Volcanoes, Basalt Plateaus, Major Rivers, etc. CALENDAR of the Journey -- October 1805 to June 1806 Along the Journey -- Pacific Northwest Maps - Columbia River, Volcanoes, Flood Basalts, Missoula Floods, Geology, etc. The Corps of Discovery -- The Journey of Lewis and Clark About the Reference Materials -- The Journals, Biddle/Allen, DeVoto, Gass, Moulton, Topo Maps, and others USGS Lewis and Clark Links -- Links to USGS Websites highlighting the Lewis and Clark Journey Resources Publications Referenced and Websites Visited |
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April 14 Columbia River Gorge, Dog Mountain to Major Creek |
April 15-17
Columbia River Gorge, Major Creek to The Dalles Major Creek, Memaloose Island, Lyle (Washington), Mill Creek, Klickitat River, Rock Fort Campsite, Drainages of Mount Hood, Wind Mountain and the Submerged Forest, The Dalles (Oregon), Columbia River Plateau |
CONTINUE
April 18-20 Up the Columbia, The Dalles and the "Long Narrows" |
| On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes. |
| The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark |
| Heading Home - April 1806 |
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Columbia River Gorge
Major Creek to The Dalles |
| The camp of April 14, 1806, was on the east bank of Major Creek, Washingon, where it flows into the Columbia River. |
| In hopes of purchasing horses we did not set out ...... till after breakfast, and in the meantime exposed our merchandise, and made them various offers; but as they declined bartering, we left them and soon reached the Sepulchre rock [Memaloose Island], where we halted a few minutes. The rock itself stands near the middle of the river, and contains about two acres of ground above high water. On this surface are scattered thirteen vaults, constructed like those below the Rapids, and some of them more than half filled with dead bodies. |
| "... We delayed this morning untill after breakfast in order to purchase some horses of the Indians ... at 8 A.M. we set out, we halted a few minutes at the sepulchre rock, and examined the deposits of the ded at that place. there were thirteen sepulchres on this rock which stands near the center of the river and has a surface of about 2 acres above high water mark ..." [Lewis, April 15, 1806] |
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Memaloose Island:
Memaloose Island: The Chinook Indian tribes of the Columbia Gorge used to lay the bones of their dead on open pyres on Memaloose Island in the middle of the Columbia River near The Dalles. A granite monument visible from Memaloose State Park campground marks the resting place where a local pioneer named Victor Trevitt wished to chart his eternal course buried among honorable men. Memaloose State Park, Oregon, was named for that island. Lewis & Clark called it "the Sepulchar Island". Interpretive wayside on I-84, Oregon. -- Oregon State Parks and Recreation Website, 2002, and Lewis & Clark Bicentennial of Oregon Website, 2002 |
| After satisfying our curiosity with these venerable remains, we returned to the northern shore, and proceeded to a village at the distance of four miles: on landing, we found that the inhabitants belonged to the same nation we had just left, and as they also had horses, we made a second attempt to purchase a few of them: but with all our dexterity in exhibiting our wares, we could not induce them to sell, as we had none of the only articles which they seemed desirous of procuring, a sort of war hatchet, called by the northwest traders an eye-dog. We therefore purchased two dogs, and taking leave of these Weocksockwillacums, proceeded to another of their villages, [on October 29, 1805, Lewis and Clark referred to this village as a village of Chilluckittequaws, location of today's Lyle, Washington] |
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Lyle, Washington:
Lyle, Washington: Lyle has a rich heritage that extends from the Indians who chose the location for their villages to the pioneers who arrived by ox-drawn carts from states far to the east. The first known white men to visit the site were members of the Lewis and Clark expedition who recorded their visit to the Indian village on the knoll west of the Klickitat on October 29, 1805. In 1876, the first Post Office east of the Cascades and north of the Columbia River was established at Klickitat Landing to service most of Eastern Washington. The mail arrived by steamship and was distributed by horseback. In 1876, James O. Lyle became the Postmaster and changed the name to Lyle. Early settlers recognized the strategic importance of Lyle and platted a town site. A ferry boat run was developed to accommodated trade between Oregon and Washington. In 1909, the present town of Lyle was platted. Two sheep sheds with a capacity of 30,000 sheet were constructed on the Point. With those in place, Lyle became an important sheep and wool shipping center. -- Lyle, Washington, Community Website, 2003 |
| just below the entrance of Cataract river [Klickitat River]. Here too, we tried in vain to purchase some horses, nor did we meet with more success at the two villages of Chilluckittequaws, a few miles farther up the river. |
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Klickitat River:
Klickitat River: The Klickitat River is located on the east slope of the Cascade Range in south-central Washington and drains 1,350 square miles in Klickitat and Yakima counties. The Klickitat River is one of the longest undammed rivers in the northwest, flowing about 95 miles south from its source in the Cascades to the Columbia River at river mile (RM) 180.4, 34 miles upstream of Bonneville Dam. The crest of the Cascade Mountains, dominated by 12,000-foot Mount Adams (Pahto) forms the western boundary of the basin. Basalt ridges and plateaus separate the Klickitat from other river basins on the north and east. About 75 percent of the subbasin is forested. The Klickitat River is located within the Columbia Gorge National Scenic Area. The spectacular geological formation of the "Narrows" supports one of the only two active Native American dip-net fisheries in the Columbia River Basin. Upstream, anglers drift the river in pursuit of elusive salmon and steelhead trout while marveling at the views of the wide rolling hills and basalt gorge landscape. -- Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002, and U.S. National Park Service, Wild and Scenic Rivers Website, 2002 Geology of the Klickitat River Basin: The geology of the Klickitat watershed is dominated by extensive basalt strata having a total thickness of several thousand feet. Volcanic rocks of four distinct age groups underlie the basin. The Cascade crest is dominated by Mount Adams, a 12,000-foot dormant volcano with an extensive glacier system that drains into the Klickitat River. At the northwest corner of the basin lie the Goat Rocks, the deeply eroded remnants of an extinct volcano, that reach to about 8,000 feet. The northern boundary is the Klickton Divide, a 7,000-foot ridge of Columbia River Basalt that separates the Klickitat from the watershed of the Tieton River, a tributary to the Yakima. The Lost Horse and Lincoln plateaus, 5,000 - 6,000-foot plateaus underlain by Columbia River basalts, separate the Klickitat from the Ahtanum and Toppenish basins, which drain east to the Yakima River. In the southeast part of the basin, younger volcanic rocks, including many cinder cones, cover the older basalts on the divide separating the Klickitat from the Satus Basin. -- Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002 
River Drainages of Mount Adams:
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| At three in the afternoon, we came to the mouth of Quinett creek [Mill Creek], which we ascended a short distance and encamped for the night, at the spot we had called Rock fort. |
| "... about 3 P.M. we crossed over to the South Side and arived at rock Camp where we Camped on the 25th & 26th of Oct. last. we went up the creek little above and Camped under high clift of rocks in order to lay here tomorrow & See if any horses can be purchased about the narrows or falls the plains are green & pleasant ..." [Ordway, April 15, 1806] |
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Mill Creek:
Mill Creek: Lewis and Clark acquired the name "Que-neet Creek," also spelled "Que-nett," meaning "salmon trout," from the local Indians and applied it to a small stream on the southern shore of the Columbia. Seeking a defensive position for an encampment, they ascended the stream and found a natural rock formation for their security. Mill Creek, the present place name, derived from the establishment of a sawmill on the stream during the military occupation at Fort Dalles, Oregon Territory. The fort was an important military post during the Indian wars era. -- Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 |
| Here we were soon visited by some of the people from the great narrows and falls: and on our expressing a wish to purchase horses, they agreed to meet us to-morrow on the north side of the river, where we would open a traffic. They then returned to their villages to collect the horses. |
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The Main Camp - April 15 through April 17, 1806:
Rock Fort, near The Dalles, Oregon. Rock Fort Campsite: Lewis and Clark set up camp at "Rock Fort" during both their journey to the Pacific and their journey home (October 25 through October 27, 1805, and April 15 through April 17, 1806). The fort-like basalt outcropping lies just downstream from the mouth of Mill Creek at present-day The Dalles, Oregon, on a wedge-shaped parcel bordered by the Columbia River, Bargeway Road, and Bridge and Garrison Streets. A riverfront trail leads to Rock Fort where interpretive signage marks the campsite. -- U.S. National Park Service Website, Lewis and Clark Expedition, 2003 |
| In the morning, Captain Clarke crossed with nine men [to the Washington side], and a large part of the merchandise, in order to purchase twelve horses to transport our baggage, and some pounded fish, as a reserve during the passage of the Rocky mountains. The rest of the men were employed in hunting and preparing saddles. |
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The Main Camp - April 15 through April 17, 1806:
Lewis and Clark set up camp at "Rock Fort" during both their journey to the Pacific and their journey home (October 25 through October 27, 1805, and April 15 through April 17, 1806). The fort-like basalt outcropping lies just downstream from the mouth of Mill Creek at present-day The Dalles, Oregon, on a wedge-shaped parcel bordered by the Columbia River, Bargeway Road, and Bridge and Garrison Streets. A riverfront trail leads to Rock Fort where interpretive signage marks the campsite. -- U.S. National Park Service Website, Lewis and Clark Expedition, 2003 Clark's Camp, April 16, 1806: |
| From the rapids [Bonneville/Cascade Locks] to this place [Rock Fort, The Dalles, Oregon], and indeed as far as the commencement of the narrows, the Columbia is from half a mile to three quarters in width, and possesses scarcely any current: its bed consists principally of rock, except at the entrance of Labiche river [Hood River], which takes its rise in mount Hood, from which, like Quicksand river [Sandy River], it brings down vast quantities of sand. |
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River Drainages of Mount Hood:
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| During the whole course of the Columbia from the Rapids [Bonneville/Cascade Locks area] to the Chilluckittequaws [White Salmon area] are the trunks of many large pine trees standing erect in water, [Submerged Forest] which is thirty feet deep at present, and never less than ten. These trees could never have grown in their present state, for they are all very much doated, and none of them vegetate; so that the only reasonable account which can be given of this phenomenon, is, that at some period, which the appearance of the trees induces us to fix within twenty years, the rocks from the hill sides have obstructed the narrow pass at the rapids, and caused the river to spread through the woods. |
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Wind Mountain and the Submerged Forest:
Submerged Forest: Up until the completion of Bonneville Dam in 1938, a ghostly white forest of drowned tree stumps could be observed along both sides of the Columbia River between Cascade Locks and The Dalles. The submerged forest was first mentioned in a geologic textbook in 1853, in "Principles of Geology" by Sir Charles Lyell: "Thus Captains Clark and Lewis found, about the year 1807 (sic), a forest of pines standing erect under water in the body of the Columbia RIver, which they supposed, from the appearnace of the trees, to have been submerged only about twenty years." Both Lewis and Clark in 1805 and Captain Fremont in 1845 recognozed that the trees were drowned by the formation of a lake behind a 200-foot landslide dam. Possibly triggered by an earthquake, the dam material slid down from the cliffs of Table Mountain and Greenleaf Peak at a time later determined to be between 1260 and 1290 A.D. The stumps were described in detail by Minnesota biologists Donald B. and Elizabeth G. Lawrence in a series of definitive papers in 1935, 1937, 1937, and 1958. The Lawrences were the first to date the time of the landslide, by caron 14 analyses, as having occurred 700 years before. As of 1936, the Lawrence's counted 3,068 stumps on the south side of the river, and 938 on the north side of the river. The maximum concentration of stumps on the south side occurs just above the mouth of Viento Creek, where more than 800 stumps were counted within a small area. [See Table Mountain Landslide information below] -- Allen, 1983, Time Travel in Oregon Wind Mountain: Gentle folding accompanied by eruptions from several andesitic and basaltic volcanoes took place during the Pliocene. This was followed by erosion that stripped away the lava flows, leaving only scattered plugs of diorite and diabase. Beacon Rock and Wind Mountain are remnants of these plugs. -- U.S. Forest Service Website, 2002, Gifford Pinchot National Forest |
| The mountains which border as far as the Sepulchre rock [Memaloose Island], are high and broken, and its romantic views accasionally enlivened by beautiful cascades rushing from the heights, and forming a deep contrast with the firs, cedars and pines, which darken their sides. From the Sepulchre rock [Memaloose Island], where the low country begins, the long-leafed pine is the almost exclusive growth of timber; but our present camp [Rock Fort, The Dalles, Oregon] is the last spot where a single tree is to be seen on the wide plains, which are now spread before us to the foot of the Rocky mountains [beginning of the Columbia River Plateau]. It is, however, covered with a rich verdure of grass and herbs, some inches in height, which forms a delightful and exhilarating prospect, after being confined to the mountains and thick forests on the seacoast. The climate too, though only on the border of the plains, is here very different from that we have lately experienced. The air is drier and more pure, and the ground itself is as free from moisture as if there had been no rain for the last ten days. ...... |
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The Dalles, Oregon:
The Dalles: The name "The Dalles", is derived from the French word dalle, means flagstone, and was applied to the narrows of the Columbia River above the present city of The Dalles. Undoubtedly the peculiar basalt formation suggested flagstone to the French-Canadian employees of the fur companies. This area was the center of trade for tribes from the Plains to the Pacific. The Dalles Dam has visitor center and guided tour train. -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2002, and Lewis & Clark Bicentennial in Oregon Website, 2002 
Columbia River Plateau:
Columbia River Plateau: During late Miocene and early Pliocene times (between 17 and 6 million years ago), one of the largest basaltic lava floods ever to appear on the earths surface engulfed about 63,000 square miles of the Pacific Northwest. Over a period of perhaps 10 to 15 million years lava flow after lava flow poured out, eventually accumulating to a thickness of more than 6,000 feet. Over 300 high-volume individual lava flows have been identified, along with countless smaller flows. Numerous linear vents, some over 90 miles long, show where lava erupted near the eastern edge of the Columbia River Basalts. Older vents were probably buried by younger flows. As the molten rock came to the surface, the earths crust gradually sank into the space left by the rising lava. The subsidence of the crust produced a large, slightly depressed lava plain now known as the Columbia Basin (Plateau). The ancient Columbia River was forced into its present course by the northwesterly advancing lava. -- U.S. National Park Service Website, 2002, and USGS/NPS, Geology in the Parks Website, 2002 |
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Captain Clarke had, in the meantime, been endeavouring to purchase horses, without success, but they promised to trade with him if he would go up to the Skilloot village, above the long narrows. He therefore sent over to us for more merchandise, and then accompanied them in the evening to that place, where he passed the night. |
| "... About 8 oClock this morning I passed the river with the two interpreters, and nine men in order to trade with the nativs for their horses ... Capt L. sent out the hunters and set several men at work makeing pack saddles ... I formed a Camp on the N. Side and sent Drewyer & Goodrich to the Skillute Village, and Shabono & Frazer down to the Chilluckkitequaw Village with derections to inform the nativs that I had crossed the river for the purpose of purchaseing horses ..." [Clark, April 16, 1806] |
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The Main Camp - April 15 through April 17, 1806:
Lewis and Clark set up camp at "Rock Fort" during both their journey to the Pacific and their journey home (October 25 through October 27, 1805, and April 15 through April 17, 1806). The fort-like basalt outcropping lies just downstream from the mouth of Mill Creek at present-day The Dalles, Oregon, on a wedge-shaped parcel bordered by the Columbia River, Bargeway Road, and Bridge and Garrison Streets. A riverfront trail leads to Rock Fort where interpretive signage marks the campsite. -- U.S. National Park Service Website, Lewis and Clark Expedition, 2003 Clark's Camp, April 16, 1806: |
| He [Captain Clark] sent to inform us that he was still unable to purchase any horses, but intended going as far as the Eneeshur village to-day, whence he would return to meet us to-morrow at the Skilloot village. In the evening the principal chief of the Chilluckittequaws came to see us, accompanied by twelve of his nation, and hearing that we wanted horses, he promised to meet us at the narrows with some for sale. |
| "... I rose early after bad nights rest and took my merchindize to a rock which afforded an eligable situation for my purpose ... before precureing the 3 horses I dispatched Crusat, Willard & McNeal and Peter Wiser to Capt Lewis at the Rock fort Camp with a note informing him of my ill suckcess in precureing horses, and advised him to proceed on to this place as soon as possible. that I would in the mean time proceed on to the Enesher National above the Great falls ... in the evening I recved a note from Capt L. by Shannon informing me that he should set out early on tomorrow morning and should proceed up to the bason 2 miles below the Skillute Village ... [Clark, April 17, 1806] |
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The Main Camp - April 15 through April 17, 1806:
Lewis and Clark set up camp at "Rock Fort" during both their journey to the Pacific and their journey home (October 25 through October 27, 1805, and April 15 through April 17, 1806). The fort-like basalt outcropping lies just downstream from the mouth of Mill Creek at present-day The Dalles, Oregon, on a wedge-shaped parcel bordered by the Columbia River, Bargeway Road, and Bridge and Garrison Streets. A riverfront trail leads to Rock Fort where interpretive signage marks the campsite. -- U.S. National Park Service Website, Lewis and Clark Expedition, 2003 Clark's Camp, April 17, 1806: |
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