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The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark

April 22, 1806

Up the Columbia River -
Deschutes to the John Day
 
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April 21
Up the Columbia, Celilo Falls to the Deschutes 		April 22

Up the Columbia,
Deschutes to the John Day

Deschutes River, Deschutes River State Recreation Area, Maryhill Vicinity and the Maryhill Museum, Maryhill State Park, Deschutes River, U.S. Highway 97 Bridge, Mount Hood and Mount Jefferson, John Day River and John Day Dam 		CONTINUE

April 23-29
Up the Columbia, Rock Creek to Walla Walla
 

On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes.


Map, Lewis and Clark in the Pacific Northwest
(Click map for brief summary about the area)



The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark
Heading Home - April 1806
Up the Columbia
Deschutes to the John Day

Tuesday, April 22, 1806

The camp of April 21, 1806, was on the Washington side of the Columbia, across from the mouth of the Deschutes River.


Along the Journey - April 22, 1806
Map, 1855, Columbia River, Walla Walla to Vancouver, click to enlarge Map, 1858 Military recon map, Deschutes River Vicinity, click to enlarge Map, 1887, The Dalles vicinity, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1997, Columbia River from The Dalles to Rock Creek, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1994, Deschutes Drainage, click to enlarge Deschutes River:
  1. 1855 Map, Columbia River, including the Deschutes River (Fall R.) (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Map of Oregon and Washington Territories: showing the proposed Northern Railroad route to the Pacific Ocean, by John Disturnell, 1855. University of Washington Archives #UW155. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1858 Military Recon Map (section of original), Deschutes River confluence with the Columbia River. (Click to enlarge). Washington State is north (top) and Oregon is south (bottom). Miller Island is under the fold marks. "Deschutes Peak" today is called "Haystack Butte". Original Map: Map of military reconnaissance from Fort Dalles, Oregon, via Fort Wallah-Wallah, to Fort Taylor, Washington Territory, 1858. Shows approximate location of military road constructed 1859 to 1862. From: the report and maps of Captain John Mullan, United States Army G.P.O., 1863. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002
  3. 1887 Map (section of original), Columbia River at The Dalles, including the Deschutes River and Miller Island. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: The Columbia River from Celilo to the mouth showing locations of the salmon fisheries, 1887. Scale ca. 1:375,000, Relief shown by hachures. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Engineer Office, G.P.O. 1888. University of Washington Archives #UW128. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002
  4. 1997, NASA Image, Columbia River from The Dalles to Rock Creek (Click to enlarge). View from space - northeast looking photograph of Columbia River, The Dalles Dam, John Day Dam, Miller Island, Maryhill area, Deschutes River, John Day River, and Rock Creek, 1997. The Columbia River flows upper right (east) to lower left (west). NASA Earth from Space #STS085-734-085. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  5. 1994, NASA Image, Deschutes drainage, including Miller Island (section of original). (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River and the Deschutes River drainage, west-northwest-looking, low-oblique photograph, September 1994. Miller Island is visible in the Columbia River (right side of view) at the mouth of the Deschutes River (center of view). The Cascades are the dark coloration at the top of the view. NASA Earth from Space #STS064-112-092. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002

Deschutes River:
Lewis and Clark first called the Deschutes "Clark's River" and that name appears on the route map and in their journals. Later, to avoid confusion with the previously named "Clark's Fork" [Pend Oreille River], Lewis and Clark changed the river's name to it's Indian name "Towahnahiooks," which with its various other spellings is the Chinook term for "enemies," referring to a river coming from southern Paiute Indian territory.
"... To this river, moreover, which we have hitherto called Clarke's river, which rises in the southwest mountains, we restored the name of Towahnahiooks, the name by which it is known to the Eneeshurs ..." [See May 6, 1806 entry]
In the fur trading period the French Canadians called the drainage "Riviere des Chutes," French for "river of the falls," because of its close proximity to the "La Grand Dalle de la Columbia." The tendency to simplify place names with local usage has shortened the name to "Deschutes." The Deschutes River is located in north-central Oregon and is the second largest watershed in the state of Oregon, covering approximately 10,500 square miles. The Deschutes flows north through central Oregon and enters the Columbia River 205 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The Deschutes features ruggedly beautiful scenery, outstanding whitewater boating, and a renowned sport fishery for steelhead, brown trout, and active rainbow trout. The river contains one of the few remaining wild spring chinook populations in the Columbia Basin, as well as fall chinook and summer steelhead. The flow of the Deschutes and that of its principal tributary, the Crooked River, jointly drains a large portion of the southern and western parts of the Columbia Plateau, and embraces a wide basin filled with porous lava flows and volcanic debris. Precipitation and a large part of the flood waters in the upper Deschutes basin are lost in these porous deposits. The waters reappear, however, in the lower canyon sections of the streams. -- Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002, Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002, U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, 1947, Oregon Water Trust Website, 2002, and U.S. National Park Service, Wild and Scenic Rivers Website, 2002
Deschutes River State Recreation Area:
The Deschutes River State Recreation Area is a tree-shaded overnight oasis for campers. The sparkle-laden, swift green rush of the Deschutes converges with the Columbia here, and there's no better place for family outing activities like hiking, biking, camping, rafting, world-class steelhead and trout fishing and equestrian trail riding. The Deschutes, which is both a national and state scenic waterway, drops about a quarter of a mile in its final 100 miles as it twists through canyons 700 to 2,200 feet deep. -- Oregon State Parks and Recreation Website, 2002


Two of our horses broke loose in the night and straggled to some distance, so that we were not able to retake them and begin our march before seven o'clock. We had just reached the top of a hill near the village, [Columbia Hills - Haystack Butte] when the load of one of the horses turned, and the animal taking fright at a robe which still adhered to him, ran furiously towards the village ......
"... at 7 oClock we loaded up and Set out, haveing previously Sent off the Canoe with Coulter and Potts we had not arived at the top of the hill which is 200 feet before Shabonos horse threw off his load ..." [Clark, April 22, 1806]


Along the Journey - April 22, 1806
Map, 1858 Military recon map, Deschutes River Vicinity, click to enlarge Columbia Hills - Haystack Butte:
  1. 1858 Military Recon Map (section of original), Deschutes River confluence with the Columbia River. (Click to enlarge). Washington State is north (top) and Oregon is south (bottom). Miller Island is under the fold marks. "Deschutes Peak" today is called "Haystack Butte". Original Map: Map of military reconnaissance from Fort Dalles, Oregon, via Fort Wallah-Wallah, to Fort Taylor, Washington Territory, 1858. Shows approximate location of military road constructed 1859 to 1862. From: the report and maps of Captain John Mullan, United States Army G.P.O., 1863. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002


We resumed our route, and soon after halted at a hill [Haystack Butte - Maryhill vicinity],


Along the Journey - April 22, 1806
NASA Image, 1997, Columbia River from The Dalles to Rock Creek, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1994, Miller Island, click to enlarge Maryhill Vicinity:
  1. 1997, NASA Image, Columbia River from The Dalles to Rock Creek (Click to enlarge). View from space - northeast looking photograph of Columbia River, The Dalles Dam, John Day Dam, Miller Island, Maryhill area, Deschutes River, John Day River, and Rock Creek, 1997. The Columbia River flows upper right (east) to lower left (west). NASA Earth from Space #STS085-734-085. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  2. 1994, NASA Image, Closer-in view, Columbia River in the area of the Deschutes River (section of original). (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, with the Deschutes River, Miller Island, and the Columbia Hills, west-northwest-looking, low-oblique photograph, September 1994. Miller Island is located in the Columbia River at the mouth of the Deschutes River. Washington State is to the right of the Columbia (north) and Oregon is to the left (south). The ridge visible on the Washington side of the Columbia is Columbia Hills. Maryhill is located on the side of the Columbia Hills. NASA Earth from Space #STS064-112-092. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002

Maryhill Museum and Maryhill State Park:
In 1907 Sam Hill, a wealthy entrepreneur bought 6,000 acres of land overlooking the Columbia River with the intention of establishing a Quaker agricultural community. He chose the bluff which Maryhill Museum now occupies as the site for his own home, and in 1914 construction of his poured concrete mansion began. He named both his home and his land company Maryhill after his daughter, Mary. On a promontory on the east side of the Museum's gardens are a series of interpretive panels that include journal entries written by William Clark while the Corps of Discovery stopped at sites visible from the Museum. One panel relates how the Corps walked across the plateau where the Museum sits during their return trip on April 22, 1806. Maryhill State Park is a 99-acre camping park with 4,700 feet of waterfront on the Columbia River in Klickitat County. The area is significant for its natural beauty, its access to the surrounding natural wonders and its cultural history. A full-scale model of Stonehenge stands near the park. Maryhill's Stonehenge is the first monument in our nation to honor the dead of World War I. It was built by Sam Hill as a tribute to the soldiers of Klickitat County who lost their lives. The structure is a full-scale replica of England's famous neolithic Stonehenge. The monument lies at the original Maryhill townsite, four miles east of the museum, just off Washington Scenic Route 14. -- Washington State Parks and Recreation Website, 2002 and Maryhill Museum Website, 2002


Geology of the Maryhill Vicinity:
About 5 million years ago magma began pushing up into the crust of the earth below parts of the Horse Heaven Hills. The magma eventually broke through to the surface and began erupting lavas and forming cinder cones. The volcanism persisted until about a million years ago when the last volcano erupted lava that flowed down off the Columbia Hills and into the Columbia River near the Maryhill Museum. -- Steve Reidel, Pacific Northwest Laboratory Website, 2002


from the top of which we enjoyed a commanding view of the range of mountains in which mount Hood stands, and which continue south as far as the eye can reach, with their tops covered with snow. mount Hood itself bears south 30° west, and the snowy summit of mount Jefferson south 10° west.


Along the Journey - April 22, 1806
Image, Mount Hood and the Maryhill Museum, click to enlarge Mount Hood from Maryhill Museum:
  1. Mount Hood, Oregon, and the Maryhill Museum, Washington State. (Click to enlarge). Looking West at the Maryhill Museum with Mount Hood in the distance. University of Washington Photo Archives #WAS0564. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2003

Map, Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark, click to enlarge Map, 1855, Columbia River, Vancouver to the Pacific, click to enlarge Map, 1911 USGS topo map of Mount Hood, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1994, Columbia River Gorge, Mount Hood, Mount Adams, and Mount St. Helens, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1997, Columbia River, Mount Hood, and Mount Adams, click to enlarge Engraving, 1848, Mount Hood and Oregon City, Oregon, click to enlarge Engraving, 1853, The Dalles, Oregon, with Mount Hood, click to enlarge Engraving detail, 1884, The Dalles and Mount Hood, with Mill Creek, click to enlarge Engraving detail, 1879, Portland Oregon and Mount Hood, click to enlarge Engraving detail, 1890, Portland Oregon and Mount Hood, click to enlarge Penny Postcard, ca.1915, Mount Hood from The Dalles, click to enlarge Penny Postcard, ca1930, Mount Hood as seen from White Salmon, Washington, click to enlarge Penny Postcard, ca.1930, Portland, Oregon and Mount Hood, click to enlarge Image, Mount Hood from Timberline, click to enlarge Mount Hood:
  1. Map, "Volcano Siting", April 22, 1806, "Commanding view of ... Mount Hood ...", (#5)
  2. 1855 Map, Columbia River from Vancouver to the Pacific, including Mount Hood (although not named) (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Map of Oregon and Washington Territories: showing the proposed Northern Railroad route to the Pacific Ocean, by John Disturnell, 1855. University of Washington Archives #UW155. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  3. 1911 Map of Mount Hood (section of original), from Mount Hood and Vicinity 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1907 and 1909-1911, contour interval of 100 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  4. 1994, NASA Image, Columbia River Gorge (section of original). (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River and the Columbia River Gorge, west-northwest-looking, low-oblique photograph, September 1994. The Columbia River is running from the bottom (east) to the top (west). The Cascade Range is the dark color through the middle of the image, with Mount Hood on the Oregon side of the Columbia and Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens on the Washington side of the Columbia. NASA Earth from Space #STS064-112-092. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  5. 1997, NASA Image, Columbia River looking northeast, with Mount Adams and Mount Hood (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Willamette Valley, Columbia Plateau, Mount Adams, and Mount Hood. In this northeast-looking photograph the Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). NASA Earth from Space #STS085-734-085. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  6. 1848, Etching of Mount Hood and American Village (Oregon City). (Click to enlarge). Etching by Henry James Warre, 1848. Oregon City was first settled in 1829. Dr. John McLoughlin is generally credited as the town's founding father, having contructed an early lumber mill there. Oregon City was an early capitol of the territory, until the territorial capitol was finally moved to Salem in 1851. In his book, the artist (Henry Warre) notes that a rival city had sprung up further down the Willamette during the summer of 1845 - this would become Portland, Oregon. Washington State University Archives Collection #WSU554. -- Washington State University Libray Archives Website, 2002
  7. 1853 Engraving, Columbia River area indian camp at The Dalles, Oregon, with Mount Hood in the background. (Click to enlarge). Engraving by John M. Stanley, 1853. From the U.S. War Department's Reports of explorations and surveys to ascertain the most practicable and econmical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean, 1860, v.12, pt.1, pl.43. University of Washington Libraries Collection, #NA4170. -- University of Washington Libraries Website, 2002
  8. 1884, Closer-in detail from engraving of The Dalles, Oregon, and Mount Hood. (Click to enlarge). Created by H. Wellge. Published 1884, J.J. Stoner, Madison, Wisconsin. Panoramic view of the city of The Dalles, Oregon, county seat of Wasco County, 1884. Original lithograph shows The Dalles, Mount Hood, the Columbia River, and the mouth of Mill Creek. Reference #LC Panoramic Maps #727. -- Library of Congress American Memories Website, 2002
  9. 1879, Detail of engraving of Portland, Oregon and Mount Hood. (Click to enlarge). Created by E.S. Glover. Published 1879, San Francisco. "Bird's-eye-veiw, looking east to the Cascade Mountains. Original lithograph shows Mount Rainier, Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, and Mount Hood, and also the Columbia River and the Willamette River. Reference #LC Panoramic Maps #722. -- Library of Congress American Memories Website, 2002
  10. 1890, Detail from engraving of Portland, Oregon with Mount Hood. (Click to enlarge). Created by Clohessy & Strengele. Published 1890, San Francisco. "Bird's-eye-view", Portland, Oregon, 1890. Original lithograph shows Mount Rainier (???), Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, and Mount Hood, and also the Columbia River and the Willamette River. Reference #75694939. -- Library of Congress American Memories Website, 2002
  11. ca.1915, Penny Postcard, Mount Hood from near The Dalles. (Click to enlarge). "Mount Hood as seend from bank of the Columbia River near The Dalles, Ore.", A.M. Prentiss Photo. #447, Lipschuetz of Katz, Portland, Oregon. -- L.Topinka private collection, 2003, used with permission.
  12. ca.1930, Penny Postcard, Mount Hood as seen from White Salmon, Washington. (Click to enlarge). "Mount Hood and Interstate Bridge to Columbia River Highway from Evergreen Highway, White Salmon, Wash. to Hood River, Oregon." #826. -- L.Topinka private collection, 2003, used with permission
  13. ca.1930, Penny Postcard. Portland, Oregon and Mount Hood. (Click to enlarge). Angelus Commercial studio, Portland, Oregon. -- L.Topinka private collection, 2003, used with permission.
  14. Mount Hood, as seen from Timberline. (Click to enlarge). USGS photo by Lyn Topinka. -- USGS Cascades Volcano Observatory Photo Archives, 2002
Snow-clad Mount Hood dominates the Cascade skyline from the Portland metropolitan area to the wheat fields of Wasco and Sherman Counties. The mountain contributes valuable water, scenic, and recreational resources that help sustain the agricultural and tourist segments of the economies of surrounding cities and counties. Mount Hood is also one of the major volcanoes of the Cascade Range, having erupted repeatedly for hundreds of thousands of years, most recently during two episodes in the past 1,500 years. The last episode ended shortly before the arrival of Lewis and Clark in 1805, and consisted of growth and collapse of a lava dome that sent numerous pyroclastic flows down the south and west flanks. Crater Rock is the remnant of that dome. Mount Hood is 11,245 feet high, is the fourth highest peak in the Cascades, and the highest in Oregon. It was named after a British admiral and first described in 1792 by William Broughton, a member of an expedition under command of Captain George Vancouver. -- DeVoto, (ed.), 1953, Scott, et.al., 1997, Gardner, et.al., 2000, and Swanson, et.al., 1989



"... dureing the time the front of the party was waiting for Cap Lewis, I assended a high hill from which I could plainly See the range of Mountains which runs South from Mt. Hood as far as I could See. I also discovered the top of Mt. Jefferson which is Covered with Snow and is S 10o W. Mt. Hood is S. 30o W. the range of mountains are Covered with timber and also Mt. Hood to a sertain hite. The range of Mountains has Snow on them. ..." [Clark, April 22, 1806]
"... from the top of this emmenense Capt. C. had an extensive view of the country. he observed the range of mountains in which Mount Hood stands to continue nearly south as far as the eye could reach. he also observed the snow clad top of Mount Jefferson which boar S. 10 W. Mount Hood from the same point boar S. 30 W. the tops of the range of western mountains are covered with snow. ..." [Lewis, April 22, 1806]


Along the Journey - April 22, 1806
Map, the Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark, click to enlarge Map, 1855, Columbia River, Vancouver to the Pacific, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1994, Columbia River, Mount Hood, and Mount Jefferson click to enlarge Image, Mount Jefferson, click to enlarge Mount Jefferson:
  1. Map, "Volcano Siting", April 22, 1806, "snowy summit of Mount Jefferson", (#5)
  2. 1855 Map, Columbia River from Vancouver to the Pacific, including Mount Jefferson (section of original) (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Map of Oregon and Washington Territories: showing the proposed Northern Railroad route to the Pacific Ocean, by John Disturnell, 1855. Mount Hood is depicted but not named. University of Washington Archives #UW155. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  3. 1994, NASA Image, Columbia River looking north, with Mount Hood and Mount Jefferson (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Mount Hood, and Mount Jefferson, north-looking low-oblique photograph, NASA Earth from Space #STS068-262-032. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  4. Mount Jefferson, as seen from Oregon Highway 97. (Click to enlarge). USGS photo by Lyn Topinka. -- USGS Cascades Volcano Observatory Photo Archives, 2003
Mount Jefferson (10,495 feet) is a prominent feature of the landscape seen from highways east and west of the Cascades. Mount Jefferson (one of thirteen major volcanic centers in the Cascade Range) has erupted repeatedly for hundreds of thousands of years, with its last eruptive episode during the last major glaciation which culminated about 15,000 years ago. The upper cone is composed largely of dacite lava flows and domes, many of which appear to have been emplaced when glaciers on the volcano were much larger than at present. It is likely that during growth of the domes, material was shed off to form pyroclastic flows and lahars, but if so, that record has been largely removed by glacial erosion. During the last few centuries, several small lakes were formed on the flanks of Mount Jefferson when small tributary valleys became dammed by glacial moraines (ridges of sediment left behind by glaciers). Several of these moraines have breached during the 20th century, producing local floods and small lahars. The youngest lava flows in the Mount Jefferson area are basaltic lava flows from Forked Butte and an unnamed butte south of Bear Butte. Both of these flows postdate the large eruption of Mount Mazama (Crater Lake) of about 7,600 years ago. -- Walder, et.al., 1999


Towards the south and at no great distance we discern some woody country, and opposite this point of view [Haystack Butte - Maryhill vicinity] is the mouth of the Towahnahiooks [Deschutes River]. This river receives, at the distance of eighteen or twenty miles, a branch from the right, which takes its rise in mount Hood, while the main stream comes in a course from the southeast; and ten or fifteen miles is joined by a second branch from mount Jefferson.
"... I also discovered some timbered land in a S. derection from me, Short of the mountains. Clarks river [Deschutes River] which mouthes imedeately opposit to me forks at about 18 or 20 miles, the West fork runs to the Mt Hood and the main branch Runs from S. E. ..." [Clark, April 22, 1806]
"... Capt C. also discovered some timbered country in a Southern direction from him at no great distance. Clarks river [Deschutes River] which mouths immediately opposite this point of view forks at the distance of 18 or 20 miles from hence, the wright hand fork takes it rise in mount Hood, and the main branch continues it's course to the S. E. ..." [Lewis, April 22, 1806]


Along the Journey - April 22, 1806
Map, 1855, Columbia River, Walla Walla to Vancouver, click to enlarge Map, 1858 Military recon map, Deschutes River Vicinity, click to enlarge Map, 1887, The Dalles vicinity, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1997, Columbia River from The Dalles to Rock Creek, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1994, Deschutes Drainage, click to enlarge Deschutes River:
  1. 1855 Map, Columbia River, including the Deschutes River (Fall R.) (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Map of Oregon and Washington Territories: showing the proposed Northern Railroad route to the Pacific Ocean, by John Disturnell, 1855. University of Washington Archives #UW155. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1858 Military Recon Map (section of original), Deschutes River confluence with the Columbia River. (Click to enlarge). Washington State is north (top) and Oregon is south (bottom). Miller Island is under the fold marks. "Deschutes Peak" today is called "Haystack Butte". Original Map: Map of military reconnaissance from Fort Dalles, Oregon, via Fort Wallah-Wallah, to Fort Taylor, Washington Territory, 1858. Shows approximate location of military road constructed 1859 to 1862. From: the report and maps of Captain John Mullan, United States Army G.P.O., 1863. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002
  3. 1887 Map (section of original), Columbia River at The Dalles, including the Deschutes River and Miller Island. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: The Columbia River from Celilo to the mouth showing locations of the salmon fisheries, 1887. Scale ca. 1:375,000, Relief shown by hachures. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Engineer Office, G.P.O. 1888. University of Washington Archives #UW128. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002
  4. 1997, NASA Image, Columbia River from The Dalles to Rock Creek (Click to enlarge). View from space - northeast looking photograph of Columbia River, The Dalles Dam, John Day Dam, Miller Island, Maryhill area, Deschutes River, John Day River, and Rock Creek, 1997. The Columbia River flows upper right (east) to lower left (west). NASA Earth from Space #STS085-734-085. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  5. 1994, NASA Image, Deschutes drainage, including Miller Island (section of original). (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River and the Deschutes River drainage, west-northwest-looking, low-oblique photograph, September 1994. Miller Island is visible in the Columbia River (right side of view) at the mouth of the Deschutes River (center of view). The Cascades are the dark coloration at the top of the view. NASA Earth from Space #STS064-112-092. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002

Deschutes River:
Lewis and Clark first called the Deschutes "Clark's River" and that name appears on the route map and in their journals. Later, to avoid confusion with the previously named "Clark's Fork" [Pend Oreille River], Lewis and Clark changed the river's name to it's Indian name "Towahnahiooks," which with its various other spellings is the Chinook term for "enemies," referring to a river coming from southern Paiute Indian territory.
"... To this river, moreover, which we have hitherto called Clarke's river, which rises in the southwest mountains, we restored the name of Towahnahiooks, the name by which it is known to the Eneeshurs ..." [See May 6, 1806 entry]
In the fur trading period the French Canadians called the drainage "Riviere des Chutes," French for "river of the falls," because of its close proximity to the "La Grand Dalle de la Columbia." The tendency to simplify place names with local usage has shortened the name to "Deschutes." The Deschutes River is located in north-central Oregon and is the second largest watershed in the state of Oregon, covering approximately 10,500 square miles. The Deschutes flows north through central Oregon and enters the Columbia River 205 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The Deschutes features ruggedly beautiful scenery, outstanding whitewater boating, and a renowned sport fishery for steelhead, brown trout, and active rainbow trout. The river contains one of the few remaining wild spring chinook populations in the Columbia Basin, as well as fall chinook and summer steelhead. The flow of the Deschutes and that of its principal tributary, the Crooked River, jointly drains a large portion of the southern and western parts of the Columbia Plateau, and embraces a wide basin filled with porous lava flows and volcanic debris. Precipitation and a large part of the flood waters in the upper Deschutes basin are lost in these porous deposits. The waters reappear, however, in the lower canyon sections of the streams. -- Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002, Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002, U.S. Bureau of Reclamation, 1947, Oregon Water Trust Website, 2002, and U.S. National Park Service, Wild and Scenic Rivers Website, 2002
Deschutes River State Recreation Area:
The Deschutes River State Recreation Area is a tree-shaded overnight oasis for campers. The sparkle-laden, swift green rush of the Deschutes converges with the Columbia here, and there's no better place for family outing activities like hiking, biking, camping, rafting, world-class steelhead and trout fishing and equestrian trail riding. The Deschutes, which is both a national and state scenic waterway, drops about a quarter of a mile in its final 100 miles as it twists through canyons 700 to 2,200 feet deep. -- Oregon State Parks and Recreation Website, 2002


From this place we prceeded with our baggage in the centre, escorted both before and behind by those of the men who were without the care of horses,


Along the Journey - April 22, 1806
NASA Image, 1994, Aerial view Columbia River and the John Day area, click to enlarge Image, 1961, U.S. Highway 97 (Biggs) Bridge, under construction, click to enlarge U.S. Highway 97 - "Biggs Bridge":
  1. 1994, NASA Image, Closer-in view, Columbia River and the John Day area (section of original). (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River and the John Day area, west-northwest-looking, low-oblique photograph, September 1994. The Columbia River is running from bottom (east) to top (west). The John Day Dam is visible across the Columbia River. The John Day River enters the Columbia from the Oregon side (south, left of river, bottom center). The right of the river (north) is Washington State. NASA Earth from Space #STS064-112-092. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  2. 1961, Columbia River Bridge (U.S. 97) bridge during construction, May 1961. (Click to enlarge). The U.S. Highway 97 Bridge connects Maryhill, Washington, with Biggs, Oregon. Oregon State Photo Archives #1945, Ben Maxwell Collection. -- Oregon State Photo Archives Website, 2003

U.S. Highway 97 - "Biggs Bridge":
The Biggs Bridge (U.S. Highway 97), 13,6 miles above The Dalles Dam, has a clearance of 88 feet at the center of the fixed highway span. The bridge joins Maryhill, Washington, and Biggs Junction, Oregon. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003


and having crossed a plain [Columbia Hills] eight miles in extent, reached a village of Eneeshurs, consisting of six houses. ...... [vicinity of today's John Day Dam].
"... after Capt Lewis Came up we proceeded on through a open ruged plain about 8 miles to a Village of 6 Houses on the river here we observed our 2 Canoes passing up on the opposit Side and the Wind too high for them to join us. I halted at the mouth of a run [Moulton, vol.7, suggests it is perhaps Harley Canyon] above the village near Some good grass to let the horses graze and for the party to dine. ..." [Clark, April 22, 1806]
"... we proceeded on through an open plain country about 8 miles to a village of 6 houses of the Eneshur nation, here we observed our 2 canoes passing up on the opposite side; the wind being too high for them to pass the river they continued on. we halted at a small run [Harley Canyon ???] just above the village where we dined ... there is no timber in this country we are obliged to purchase our fuel of the natives, who bring it from a great distance. ..." [Lewis, April 22, 1806]
"... the high Smooth plain which is extensive & Smooth back from the river ... ..." [Ordway, April 22, 1806]


Along the Journey - April 22, 1806
Image, ca.1935, Columbia River near the mouth of the John Day, click to enlarge Columbia River downstream John Day Dam:
  1. ca.1935, Columbia River near the mouth of the John Day River. (Click to enlarge). The Columbia River Highway and railroad tracks on the south side of the Columbia River in Oregon. The view is looking west near the mouth of the John Day River. Brush covered hills are on both sides of the river. Oregon State Archives, Oregon Department of Transportation Collection #OHD0156, ca.1935. -- Oregon State Photo Archives Website, 2003


Begun in 1958 and completed in 1971, the John Day Dam now spans the Columbia River, a few miles downstream of the mouth of the John Day River.


Along the Journey - April 22, 1806
NASA Image, 1997, Columbia River from The Dalles to Rock Creek, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1994, Columbia River and the John Day area, click to enlarge Image, 1958, Columbia River near the John Day Dam site, click to enlarge Image, 1998, Aerial view, John Day Dam, click to enlarge John Day Dam:
  1. 1997, NASA Image, Columbia River from The Dalles to Rock Creek (Click to enlarge). View from space - northeast looking photograph of Columbia River, The Dalles Dam, John Day Dam, Miller Island, Maryhill area, Deschutes River, John Day River, and Rock Creek, 1997. The Columbia River flows upper right (east) to lower left (west). NASA Earth from Space #STS085-734-085. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  2. 1994, NASA Image, Columbia River and the John Day area (section of original). (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River and the John Day area, west-northwest-looking, low-oblique photograph, September 1994. The Columbia River is running from bottom (east) to top (west). The John Day Dam is visible across the Columbia River. The John Day River enters the Columbia from the Oregon side (south, left of river, bottom center). The right of the river (north) is Washington State. NASA Earth from Space #STS064-112-092. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  3. 1958, John Day Dam site as seen on September 16, 1958. (Click to enlarge). The dam on the Columbia River just below the mouth of the John Day River was completed in 1968. Oregon State Archives Photograph #7263(Ben Maxwell). Photograph Date: September 16, 1958. Photographer: Ben Maxwell. From: Salem Public Library Collection. -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2002
  4. 1998 aerial view of the John Day Dam. (Click to enlarge). U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Photograph #4597-41. Photograph Date: June 9, 1998. Photographer: Bill Johnson. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Photo Archives. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002

John Day Dam:
The John Day Dam is located at the head of Lake Celilo, 216 miles upstream from the mouth of the Columbia River. The dam crosses the river near Rufus, Oregon, about 25 miles upstream from The Dalles, just below the mouth of the John Day River. To get to John Day Dam take exit 109 from Interstate 84. The project consists of a navigation lock, spillway, powerhouse and fish passage facilities on both shores. Various recreational facilities are provided along the shores of Lake Umatilla and on the John Day River (Lake Umatilla, impounded by the dam, extends upstream about 76 miles to the foot of McNary Dam). Construction began in 1958 and was completed in 1971, at a total cost of $511 million. At the time of it's completion, John Day Dam Powerhouse was the second largest in the world. Completion of the John Day Dam marked the final step in harnessing the lower waters of the Columbia River. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002


went up the river four miles further, to another Eneeshur village of seven mat houses. Our guide now informed us that the next village was at such a distance that we should not reach it this evening, and as we should be able to procure both dogs and wood at this place, we determined to encamp [on the Washington side of the Columbia, across from the John Day]. We here purchased a horse, and engaged for a second in exchange for one of our canoes, but as they were on the opposite side of the river, and the wind very high, they were not able to cross before sunset, at which time the Indian had returned home to the next village above. ......
"... after we proceeded on up the river about 4 miles to a village of 7 mat Lodges. here our Chopunnish guide informed me that the next villg. was at Some distance and that we Could not get to it to night, and that there was no wood to be precured on this Side. ... the air I find extreemly Cold which blows Continularly from Mt. Hoods Snowey regions. ... we made 14 miles to day with the greatest exirtion. ..." [Clark, April 22, 1806]
"... while we halted for dinner we purch a horse. after dinner we proceeded on up the river about 4 miles to a village of 7 mat lodges of the last mentioned nation. here our Chopunnish guide informed us that the next village was at a considerable distance and that we could not reach it tonight. the people at this place offered to sell us wood and dogs, and we therefore thought it better to remain all night. ... we can only afford ourselves one fire, and are obliged to lie without shelter, the nights are cold and days warm. ..." [Lewis, April 22, 1806]


Along the Journey - April 22, 1806
Map, 1855, Columbia River, Walla Walla to Vancouver, click to enlarge Map, 1858 Military recon map, John Day River and Rock Creek, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1997, Columbia River from The Dalles to Rock Creek, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1994, Columbia River and the John Day area, click to enlarge John Day River:
  1. 1855 Map, Columbia River, including "John Days River" (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Map of Oregon and Washington Territories: showing the proposed Northern Railroad route to the Pacific Ocean, by John Disturnell, 1855. University of Washington Archives #UW155. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1858 Military Recon Map (section of original), John Day River and Rock Creek. (Click to enlarge). Map of military reconnaissance from Fort Dalles, Oregon, via Fort Wallah-Wallah, to Fort Taylor, Washington Territory, 1858. Shows approximate location of military road constructed 1859 to 1862. From the report and maps of Captain John Mullan, United States Army, G.P.O., 1863. University of Washington Archives #UW85. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002
  3. 1997, NASA Image, Columbia River from The Dalles to Rock Creek (Click to enlarge). View from space - northeast looking photograph of Columbia River, The Dalles Dam, John Day Dam, Miller Island, Maryhill area, Deschutes River, John Day River, and Rock Creek, 1997. The Columbia River flows upper right (east) to lower left (west). NASA Earth from Space #STS085-734-085. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  4. 1994, NASA Image, Closer-in view, Columbia River and the John Day area (section of original). (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River and the John Day area, west-northwest-looking, low-oblique photograph, September 1994. The Columbia River is running from bottom (east) to top (west). The John Day Dam is visible across the Columbia River. The John Day River enters the Columbia from the Oregon side (south, left of river, bottom center). The right of the river (north) is Washington State. NASA Earth from Space #STS064-112-092. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002

John Day River:
The John Day River in northeastern Oregon is unique - it is the second longest free- flowing river in the continental United States, and its spring chinook salmon and summer steelhead populations are two of the last remaining intact wild populations of anadromous fish in the Columbia River basin. The John Day River has also been kept relatively free of hatchery influences. Many segments of the John Day River have been designated under the federal Wild Scenic Rivers Act and Oregon's State Scenic Waterways Act. Topographically, the John Day Subbasin is an interior plateau bounded by the Columbia River to the north (Lake Umatilla), the Blue Mountains to the east, the Aldrich Mountains and Strawberry Range to the south, and the Ochoco Mountains to the west. The John Day basin drains a large portion of northeast Oregon (nearly 8,100 square miles), flowing 284 miles from its source in the Strawberry Mountains (9,000 feet), to its mouth at RM 217 (200 feet) on the Columbia River. The John Day system contains over 500 river miles and is the second largest undammed tributary in the western United States, after the Yellowstone River. -- Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002


Geology of the John Day River Basin:
The John Day basin is characterized by diverse landforms ranging from loess-covered plateaus in the lower sections to glaciated alpine peaks in the headwaters. Elevations range from 200 feet at the mouth of the John Day River to over 9,000 feet in the Strawberry Mountains. Two major physiographic provinces exist in the John Day basin -- the Deschutes-Umatilla Plateau and the Blue Mountains. A third province, the Columbia Basin, is a minor province along the confluence with the Columbia River. The Deschutes-Umatilla Plateau is in the lower subbasin situated to the north and west. This plateau is of nearly level to rolling land deeply dissected by the mainstem and tributaries. The Blue Mountain Province is in the upper basin to the south and east. The upper subbasin is physiographically diverse, containing mountains, rugged hills, plateaus cut by streams, alluvial basins and valleys. Rock assemblages within the John Day Subbasin include masses of oceanic crust, marine sediments, volcanic materials, ancient river and lake deposits, and recent river and landslide deposits. Major geologic events included volcanic eruptions, uplifting, faulting, and erosion. Volcanic activity in the form of lava flows, mudflows, and ash fall formed and stratified three key formations in the subbasin over the course of approximately 37 to 54 million years -- the Clarno Formation, John Day Formation, and the Columbia River Basalt Group. The Columbia River Basalt Group, a less erodable formation, resulted from a series of flood basalts 12 to 19 million years ago. Columbia River Basalts are the dominant rocks at elevations below 4,000 feet. Igneous rocks are exposed in the higher reaches of the subbasin, while the lower basin exposures are primarily extrusive rocks, ash, and wind-blown loess. After volcanic activity ceased (10 million years ago), erosion and faulting continued to alter the landscape. The Mascall Formation resulted from waterlaid fine volcanic sediments. The Rattlesnake Formation, a thick sequence of sand and gravel, was deposited in the ancestral John Day Valley. A final layer of predominantly unconsolidated silt, sand, and gravel comprises the Quaternary Alluvium. Distribution of the basin's major geologic units was mostly controlled by topographic and structural features developed during the pre-Tertiary period, including the Strawberry and Aldrich Mountains, Blue Mountains, and the Blue Mountain Anticline (a long structural upwarping in the earth's crust. An east-west fault zone exists along the base of the Strawberry and Aldrich Mountains and includes the John Day Fault. -- Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002


LePage Park, Oregon:
LePage Park was named for the Corps' private Jean LePage, whose name Lewis & Clark gave to today's John Day River. Interpretive sign. -- Lewis and Clark Bicentennial in Oregon Website, 2002


Along the Journey - April 22, 1806
The Camp - April 22, 1806:
Camped on the Washington side of the Columbia, across from the John Day River.



 

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03/22/04, Lyn Topinka