The Volcanoes of Lewis and ClarkMarch 23 - 24, 1806
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-- The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark Map of the Journey -- Volcanoes, Basalt Plateaus, Major Rivers, etc. CALENDAR of the Journey -- October 1805 to June 1806 Along the Journey -- Pacific Northwest Maps - Columbia River, Volcanoes, Flood Basalts, Missoula Floods, Geology, etc. The Corps of Discovery -- The Journey of Lewis and Clark About the Reference Materials -- The Journals, Biddle/Allen, DeVoto, Gass, Moulton, Topo Maps, and others USGS Lewis and Clark Links -- Links to USGS Websites highlighting the Lewis and Clark Journey Resources Publications Referenced and Websites Visited |
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December 7-25, 1805 A Place to Winter, Tongue Point to Fort Clatsop |
March 23-24, 1806
Heading Home, Fort Clatsop to Tenasillahe Island Fort Clatsop and Fort Clatsop National Memorial, Mouth of the Columbia River and Mount St. Helens, Rain and More Rain, Young's Bay, Tongue Point, John Day River (Clatsop County), Cathlamet Bay and South Channel, Lewis and Clark NWR, Cathlamet Point - Aldrich Point, Tenasillahe Island |
CONTINUE
March 25-28 Heading Home, Puget Island to Deer Island |
| On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes. |
| The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark |
| Heading for Home - March 1806 |
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Heading Home Fort Clatsop to Tenasillahe Island |
| Lewis and Clark wintered at Fort Clatsop, near the mouth of the Columbia River. Today the Fort Clatsop National Memorial is a reconstruction of Lewis and Clarks winter quarters. . |
| The canoes were loaded, and at one o'clock in the afternoon we took a final leave of fort Clatsop. |
| "... at 1 P.M. we bid a final adieu to Fort Clatsop ..." [Lewis, March 23, 1806] |
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Fort Clatsop:
Fort Clatsop National Memorial: This site comemorates the 1805-06 winter encampment of the 33-member Lewis and Clark Expedition. A 1955 community-built replica of the explorers' 50'x50' Fort Clatsop is the focus of this 125-acre park. The fort, historic canoe landing, and spring are nestled in the coastal forests and wetlands of the Coast Range as it merges with the Columbia River Estuary. The Salt Works unit commemorates the expedition's salt-making activities. Salt obtained from seawater was essential to the explorers' winter at Fort Clatsop and their journey back to the United States in 1806. [See November/December 1805 entry for more Fort Clatsop information, including the History and Geology of the area.] -- U.S. National Park Service Website, Fort Clatsop National Memorial, 2002 |
| On a clear day, Mount St. Helens is visible from the Mouth of the Columbia River. |
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Mount St. Helens:
Mount St. Helens, nearly 8,500 feet high with a truncated-cone shape, is about 75 miles East of the entrance to the Columbia River. On a clear day it is visible when looking up the valley from seaward. -- NOAA, Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003 Mount St. Helens was known as "the Fuji of America" because its symmetrical beauty was similar to that of the famous Japanese volcano. The graceful cone top, whose glistening cap of perennial snow and ice dazzled the viewer, is now largely gone. On May 18, 1980, the missing mountaintop was transformed in a few hours into the extensive volcanic ash that blanketed much of the Northwestern United States and into various other deposits closer to the mountain. Even before its recent loss of height, Mount St. Helens was not one of the highest peaks in the Cascade Range. Its summit altitude of 9,677 feet (now the volcano is 8,364 feet), made it only the fifth highest peak in Washington. It stood out handsomely, however, from surrounding hills because it rose thousands of feet above them and had a perennial cover of ice and snow. The peak rose more than 5,000 feet above its base, where the lower flanks merge with adjacent ridges. The mountain is about 6 miles across at its base, which is at an altitude of about 4,400 feet on the northeastern side and about 4,000 feet elsewhere. At the pre-eruption timberline (upper limit of trees), the width of the cone was about 4 miles. Mount St. Helens is 34 miles almost due west of Mount Adams, which is in the eastern part of the Cascade Range. These "sister and brother" volcanic mountains are each about 50 miles from Mount Rainier, the giant of Cascade volcanoes. Mount Hood, the nearest major volcanic peak in Oregon, is about 60 miles southeast of Mount St. Helens. Mount St. Helens was named for British diplomat Alleyne Fitzherbert (1753-1839), whose title was Baron St. Helens. The mountain was named by Commander George Vancouver and the officers of H.M.S.Discovery while they were surveying the northern Pacific coast from 1792 to 1794. -- Foxworthy and Hill, 1982 |
| The wind was still high, but the alternative of remaining without provisions was so unpleasant, that we hoped to be able to double point William [Tongue Point]. |
| "... This morning proved so raney and uncertain that we were undetermined for some time whether we had best set out & risque the [tide] which appread to be riseing or not. the rained seased and it became fair about Meridian, at which time we loaded our canoes & at 1 P. M. left Fort Clatsop on our homeward bound journey. at this place we had wintered and remained from the 7th of Decr. 1805 to this day and have lived as well as we had any right to expect, and we can say that we were never one day without 3 meals of some kind a day either pore Elk meat or roots, notwithstanding the repeated fall of rain which has fallen almost constantly since we passed the long narrows ..." [Clark, March 23, 1806] |
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Rain:
The dominate physiographic features of the Pacific Northwest are the Pacific Ocean, the Coast and Cascade Mountain Ranges, and the Columbia River Basin. The Pacific Ocean is the source of all moisture entering this region. The mountain ranges cross the region in a roughly north-south direction. As storms are driven by the prevailing westerly winds, the mountains force the removal of moisture from the airmass, as indicated by the higher rainfall west of the mountains than in east-side valleys. The Coast Range (excluding the Olympic Mountains), with a few peaks that extend above 3,000 feet, generally lies within 20 miles of the Pacific Ocean. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002 Rain at Fort Clatsop: Fort Clatsop has a wet, mild climate. Annual precipitation in the vicinity of the Fort Clatsop National Memorial from 1953 through 1990 averaged 69.60 inches, most in the form of rainfall. Approximately 47 per cent of annual precipitation occurs during November, December, and January. Although actual precipitation is lower during the remainder of the year, clouds and fog are common in all months. -- U.S. National Park Service, Fort Clatsop National Memorial Website, 2002 Rain in the Coast Range: The Coast Ranges, which border the entire west coast of the United States from the Olympic Peninsula south to Mexico, vary greatly in both rock type and climate. Upper Mesozoic and Tertiary sedimentary rocks predominate, although intrusive and metamorphic rocks are also present. Most rocks have been folded, faulted, and in places intensely sheared; many of the Tertiary rocks are poorly consolidated. Topography is mountainous, with steep slopes and intervening flat valleys. Precipitation in the Coast Ranges is seasonal, ranging from very wet in parts of the northern ranges to semiarid in the south, with periodic storms accompanied by intense rainfall. The combination of steep slopes, soft, sheared rocks, and periods of heavy precipitation makes this subdivision, particularly in California, one of the most landslide prone areas of the United States. Tectonic melange, especially that of the Franciscan assemblage, is especially slide prone; landslides on natural slopes are common in all three categories of slide, fall, and flow. Debris flows during rainstorms are a particular hazard in southern California, where much of the area is heavily developed, so that many landslides have been artificially activated. The Coast Ranges are seismically active, and earthquakes have triggered many landslides. -- Radbruch-Hall, et.al., 1982, USGS Professional Paper 1183 |
| We had scarcely left the fort when we met Delashelwilt, and a party of twenty Chinnooks, who understanding that we had been trying to procure a canoe, had brought one for sale. Being, however, already supplied, we left them, and after getting out of Meriwether's bay [Youngs Bay], began to coast along the south side of the river: |
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Youngs Bay:
Youngs Bay: Youngs Bay is a shoal body of water just west of Smith Point. It receives the waters of Youngs River and Lewis and Clark River. Youngs Bay is crossed by U.S. Route 26/101 vertical-lift highway bridge, about 0.3 mile above the mouth. Lieutenant William Robert Broughton of Vancouver's expedition, discovered and explored Youngs Bay and Youngs River on October 22, 1792. He named Youngs River for Sir George Young of the royal navy. The bay took its name from the river. Lewis and Clark named the bay Meriwether Bay for Meriweather Lewis, just as they named Tongue Point, Point William for William Clark. Neither of these names was able to supplant the names attached to the features by Lieutenant Broughton. Youngs Bay is a part of the Columbia River estuary. Four major streams flow into Youngs Bay. The Lewis and Clark River drains the southern and western sides of Saddle Mountain [See November 7, 1805 entry for more on Saddle Mountain.] . It also drains the northern side of Humbug Mountain, Davis Point, and the surrounding foothills. Youngs River drains the north slopes of Saddle Mountain and the Green Mountain area. The Klatskanine and Walluski Rivers drain the south slopes of Wickiup Mountain, Elk Mountain, and extensive ridges of uplifted sediment. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003, and McArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names |
| we doubled point William [Tongue Point] without any injury, |
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Tongue Point:
Tongue Point: Tongue Point, at mile 16 on the Oregon side of the Columbia River, is a bold, rocky peninsula, 308 feet high, covered with trees and connected with the south bank by a low, narrow neck. It projects into the river for 0.8 mile. Tongue Point was so named in 1972, by Lieutenant William Robert Broughton. Captain George Vancouver, at the head of the sloop Discovery was forced to abandon any attempts to sail up the Columbia River, leaving Lieut. Broughton and his smaller armed tender Chatham to explore the Columbia River. Broughton noted "a remarkable projecting point, that obtained the name of Tongue Point, on the southern shore, appearing like an island." Lewis and Clark tried to attach the name Point William, for William Clark, but it did not stick. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003, Oregon State Archives Website, 2002, and MacArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names |
| and at six o'clock reached, at the distance of sixteen miles from fort Clatsop, the mouth of a small creek [John Day River, in Clatsop County], where we found our hunters. |
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John Day River, Clatsop County, Oregon:
"Ke-ke mar que Creek" was an analogue the captains used for a word obtained from the local natives. They did not comprehend that Pacific Northwest Indians did not name geographical features such as rivers and creeks; instead, they identified sites on the drainages. This concept was also foreign to later cartographers. Their translations of native languages led to many misconceptions of actual Indian meanings and names. This western Oregon river, like the one in eastern Oregon, was named for John Day of Wilson Price Hunt's Astorian overland expedition, 1811-12. -- Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 |
| They had been fortunate enough to kill two elk, but at such a distance that we could not send for them before the next morning, |
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The Camp - March 23, 1806:
On the Oregon side of the Columbia River, between Tongue Point and the John Day River (Clatsop County), across from today's Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge. |
| The country is covered with a thick growth of timber: the water however is shallow to the distance of four miles from shore [they are in Cathlamet Bay]; and although there is a channel deep enough for canoes on the south side [South Channel], yet as the tide was low, we found some difficulty in passing along. [Cathlamet Bay in the vicinity of Knappa, Oregon] |
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Cathlamet Bay:
Cathlamet Bay and South Channel: Cathlamet Bay is east of Tongue Point and south of the main ship channel of the Columbia River. There are many islands which are covered with tule in the summer, but in the winter they are almost indiscernible. The John Day Channel extends between Tongue Point and John Day Point. At the junction with the John Day River, just north of the point, the name changes to South Channel, which follows the shore closely to and around Settler point to Svensen. Many houseboats are moored along John Day River. The east part of Cathlamet Bay is used mostly for logging operations and log storage. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003 |
| At one o'clock we reached the Cathlamah village, where we halted for about two hours, and purchased some wappatoo and a dog for the invalids. This village we have already described, [see November 26, 1805 entry] as situated opposite to the seal islands [Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge]: ...... |
| "... the tide being out this morning we found some difficulty in passing through the bay below the Cathlahmah village; this side of the river is very shallow to the distance of 4 miles from the shore tho' there is a channel sufficient for canoes near S. side. at 1 P.M. we arrived at the Cathlahmah village where we halted and purchased some wappetoe ... on one of the seal Islands opposite to the village of these people thy have scaffolded their dead in canoes elivating them above tidewater mark. ... we continued our rout along the South side of the river and encamped at an old village of 9 houses opposite to the lower Wackkiacum village. the night was cold tho' wood was abundant ... came 15 miles today. ..." [Lewis, March 24, 1806] |
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Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge:
Lewis and Clark NWR: Lewis and Clark called this are the "Seal Islands" -- 35,000 acres of mudflats, tidal marshes, open water, and islands, Hundreds of plant and animal species; thousands of waterfowl in winter. Woody, Horseshoe, Karlson, and Marsh islands are the main islands in the wildlife refuge on Oregon's side of the Columbia. -- Lewis and Clark Bicentennial in Oregon Website, 2002, and Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 |
| On resuming our route among the seal islands [Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge], we mistook our way, which an Indian observing, he pursued us and put us into the right channel. ...... We continued our route along the shore, and after making fifteen miles encamped at an old village of nine houses [northeast of Brownsmead, Oregon, at Aldrich Point], |
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Cathlamet Point - Aldrich Point:
Aldrich Point, in Clatsop County, was named for R.E. Aldrich, who at one time lived there and had a small mercantile establishment. In pioneer days it was known as Cathlamet Point for the Cathlamet Indians. -- McArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names |
| opposite to the lower village of the Wahkiacums [lower end of Tenasillahe Island]. |
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Tenasillahe Island:
Tenasillahe Island: The name Tenasillahe is composed of two Chinook jargon words, tenas meaning small or little, and illahe, meaning land, hence, "little land". The island is low, and marshy in places. Maps prepared by Lewis and Clark show this and other islands nearby in the Columbia River marked "marshy islands", but the expression was apparently not used as a geographic name. W.R. Broughton passed Tenasillahe Island on October 25, 1792, and described it as a "long, sandy, shallow spit". Wilkes used the name "Kathlamet" for this island. -- McArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names |
| Here we were overtaken by two Chinnooks, who came to us after dark, and spent the night at our camp. We found plenty of wood for fires, which were quite necessary, as the weather had become cold. |
| "... at half after 3 P. M. we set out and continued our rout among the seal Islands; not paying much attention we mistook our rout which an Indian perceiving pursued overtook us and put us in the wright channel ... we continued our rout along the South side of the river and encamped at an old village of 9 houses opposite to the lower Wackkiacum village. the night was cold tho' wood was abundant ... came 15 miles today. ..." [Lewis, March 24, 1806] |
| "... we proceeded on through Some difficult and narrow Channels between the Seal Islands, and the South Side to an old village on the South Side opposit to the lower War ki a com village, and Encamped. ... made 16 Miles ..." [Clark, March 24, 1806] |
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The Camp - March 24, 1806:
Having spent the day travelling through what is today's Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge, the Corps camped on the Oregon side of the Columbia, northeast of Brownsmead, at Aldrich Point, across from Tenasillahe Island. |
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