The Volcanoes of Lewis and ClarkMay 4 - June, 1806
|
|
Home
-- The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark Map of the Journey -- Volcanoes, Basalt Plateaus, Major Rivers, etc. CALENDAR of the Journey -- October 1805 to June 1806 Along the Journey -- Pacific Northwest Maps - Columbia River, Volcanoes, Flood Basalts, Missoula Floods, Geology, etc. The Corps of Discovery -- The Journey of Lewis and Clark About the Reference Materials -- The Journals, Biddle/Allen, DeVoto, Gass, Moulton, Topo Maps, and others USGS Lewis and Clark Links -- Links to USGS Websites highlighting the Lewis and Clark Journey Resources Publications Referenced and Websites Visited |
PREVIOUS
May 1-3 The Walla Walla Shortcut, Overland, Touchet to the Snake |
May 4-June
To the Rockies Snake River to Long Camp Pataha Creek and Pataha City, Pomeroy (Washington), Blue Mountains, Snake River and Highway-12, Alpowa Creek and Chief Timothy State Park, Confluence of the Snake and Clearwater, Lapwai Creek and Spalding, Potlatch River and Nez Perce County, Great Lake River, Jack's Creek, Big Canyon Creek, Peck and Orofino, Long Camp |
October, 1805
Lewis and Clark begin their Journey through the Pacific Northwest |
| On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes. |
| The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark |
| Heading Home - May 1806 |
|
To The Rockies Snake River to Long Camp |
| Lewis and Clark's camp of May 3, 1806 was on the Pataha Creek, near the city of Pataha, Washington (near Pomeroy, Washington). An interpretive sign is located at the spot today. The camp was across the highway from today's sign, near the foot of the old McKeirnan grade. |
|
|
Pataha Creek, Pomeroy, and Pataha City:
Pataha City, Washington: In 1881, the newly formed Garfield County held its county seat at Pataha City for one year. It transferred the next year three miles away to Pomeroy, Washington, but the fact that Pataha City held the honor even temporarily shows that the town was strong and growing at that point in time. The name Pataha is a Nez Perce word that means "bushy creek". The town incorporated in 1875, as more and more people began to settle there. It became a popular spot after the arrival of three economies: the shipping/transportation industry, winter wheat farming, and flour production. The Pataha-Alpowa stage line stopped in the town, and a shipping business running the Snake River was also established some time after. Prior to 1870, Pataha was mostly a cattle raising region, but soon prospered as a farming town with the introduction of a hearty strain of wheat. The future looked bright for Pataha until 1886. In that year the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company built a track running up to the town of Pomeroy and greatly improved transportation methods in the area. However, Pomeroy had long been Pataha City's rival, and refused to extend the line into the next town. Pataha City withered away when more and more businesses and farmers switched from shipping transport to the rails. The gristmill business (the Houser Mill or Pataha Flour Mill for example) continued on for a number of years due to a high international demand for its quality product. However, it too closed down by 1940, when the federal government placed costly and rigid regulations on small businesses. -- Washington State University Library Collections Website, 2002 |
| After a disagreeable night, we collected our horses at an early hour. and proceeded with a continuation of the same weather. We are now nearer to the southwest mountains [Blue Mountains], which appear to become lower as they advance towards the northeast. |
|
|
Blue Mountains:
Blue Mountains: The Blue Mountains area is made up of separate "exotic terranes," areas that were created elsewhere and scooped up by North America as it moved west toward the Pacific. Fossils found in this province reveal their foreign origins. Placer and lode gold mines were active here in the past, and towns such as John Day and Baker City, together with the Sumpter gold dredge, are vivid reminders of the Blue Mountains gold mining heritage. The Blue Mountains are bordered on the north by the Columbia Basin, on the south by the Harney-Owyhee Broken Lands, and on the east by the Northern Rocky Mountains. The climate is subhumid to semiarid. The Blue Mountains were arched upward and faulted since Miocene time; subsequent rapid erosion has cut steep gorges that are separated by sharp ridges or tablelands. The area is underlain predominantly by Tertiary sedimentary and volcanic rocks, with lesser amounts of Mesozoic sedimentary rocks. -- Oregon Department of Geology and Mineral Industries Website, 2002, and Radbruch-Hall, et.al., 1982, USGS Professional Paper 1183 Geology of the Blue Mountains: The Blue Mountains are a complex of mountain ranges and intermontane basins and valleys which extend from the northeast corner of Oregon southwestward into Central Oregon near Prineville. The Blue Mountains are not a cohesive range but a cluster of smaller ranges of varying relief and orientation. The western portion of the province is part of a wide uplifted plateau, while the eastern section contains a striking array of ice sculped mountain peaks, deep canyons, and broad valleys. In Central Oregon the Ochoco Mountains form the western end of the province. The unique aspect of the Blue Mountains province is that it is a patchwork of massive pieces of the earth's crust. Permian, Triassic, and Jurassic rocks (300 to 200 million years old) were transported by the Pacific Plate and accreated to the late Mesozoic shoreline, which at that time (about a 100 million years ago) lay across what is today eastern Washington and Idaho. Following the accretion of the terranes there was a vast shallow seaway during covering much of the area during the remainder of the Mesozoic and then slow uplift began. From about 50 to 37 million years ago, eruptions of volcanoes in the western part of the province formed the Clarno Formation. From 37 to 17 million years ago eruptions in the Western Cascades spread ash across the province to form the John Day Formation. From 17 to 14 million years ago major basaltic eruptions covered much of the province with basalt flows to form the Columbia River Group. Continued faulting and uplift has resulted in a deeply eroded landscape. In Central Oregon, at the western end of the province, some deposits of middle Cretaceous age are exposed in the Mitchell area but predominately the area is made up of Tertiary volcanics of the Clarno and John Day Formations and the Columbia River Group. -- U.S. Forest Service Website, Deschutes and Ochoco National Forests, 2002 |
| We followed the road over the plains [Alpowa Ridge], north 60° east, for four miles to a ravine, where was the source of a small creek [Stember Creek, which flows into Alpowa Creek just west of Clayton Gulch], down the hilly and rocky sides of which we proceeded for eight miles [down Alpowa Creek] to its entrance into Lewis's river [Snake River] about seven miles and a half above the mouth of the Kooskooskee [Clearwater River]. ...... |
| "... Collected our horses and set out early; the morning was cold and disagreeable. we ascended through a high level plain to a ravine which forms the source of a small creek, thence down this creek to it's entrance into Lewis's river 7 1/2 ms. below the entrance of the Kooskooske ..." [Lewis, May 4, 1806] |
| "... a hard frost & verry cold this morning. we Set out as usal and proced on left the creek and assended high plains came on a Small branch in a deep revean. followed down it. about noon we arived at a small village on the bank of Lewises river where we halted about 10 miles below the forks of kooskooskee & Lewises rivers ... we crossed Lewises river to the N. Side to a Small village where we bought only one dog and Camped ..." [Ordway, May 4, 1806] |
| "... the hills of the creek which we decended this morning are high and in most parts rocky and abrupt. one of our packhorses sliped from one of those hights and fell into the creek with it's load consisting principally of ammunition but fortunately neith the horse nor load suffered any material injury ..." [Lewis, May 4, 1806] |
|
|
Alpowa Creek:
Alpowa Creek: Alpowa Creek in Asotin County enters the Snake River in the vicinity of the former Alpowa City, later renamed Silcott. The townsite was inundated by Lower Granite Reservoir in 1975. Chief Timothy State Park and Alpowai Interpretive Center are now located on an island created by the dam's backwater. On October 11, 1805, Lewis and Clark noted: "Passed a large camp of Alpowa Cr. Indians." The creek was not named on the route map or journal entries, either westbound or eastbound. Clark explained in the journals that in taking Indian vocabularies, "great object was to make every letter sound." "Alpowa" must have been one of the easier native names for Clark, who spelled phonetically and derived some interesting spellings, occasionally using several forms for the same word. -- Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 |
| Today, Chief Timothy State Park, Washington, is located at the junction of Alpowa Creek and the Snake River. |
|
|
|
Chief Timothy State Park:
Chief Timothy State Park is a 282-acre camping park with 11,500 feet of freshwater shoreline. The park offers water, scenery and excellent camping facilities in a primarily desert environment. The park is on an island in the Snake River on the route of the historic Lewis and Clark trail, proximate to Silcott townsite. The park is named for the chief of the Alpowai encampment of the Nez Perce Indian Tribe. Chief Alpowai was a valued friend of early white settlers in the region. -- Washington State Parks and Recreation Website, 2002 Geology of Chief Timothy State Park: During the Miocene age there were great lava flows that created basaltic columns. The following ice age carved the land, blocking rivers and creating the huge Lake Missoula. As the ice age drew to a close, the ice dams holding back Lake Missoula broke, unleashing a catastrophic flood that shaped the landscape. Chief Timothy is on an island made of glacial tills that were back-washed by the flood when it hit the Wallala gap causing the water to rush backward to the east carrying rocks and debris. -- Washington State Parks and Recreation Website, 2002 |
| The soil of the plain is good, but it has no timber. The range of southwest mountains [Blue Mountains] is about fifteen miles above us, but continues to lower, and is still covered with snow to its base. After giving a passage to Lewis's river [Snake River], near their northeastern extremity, they terminate in a high level plain between that river and the Kooskooskee [Clearwater River]. ...... |
|
|
Returning to the Snake River:
Back on the Snake River: On their return trip the following spring, the Corps was on horseback. They followed a route through southeast Washington that approximates today's Highway 12. Near Chief Timothy Park, the mouth of the Alpowai, they crossed the Snake River. Travel was then along the north bank of the Snake and Clearwater rivers to a crossing near Jacks Creek, a ways downstream from Peck, Idaho. They continued up Little Canyon Creek southeast to Camas Prairie before dropping back down Lawyers Creek to Kamiah. There they made camp on the east side of the river between May 14 and June 10 while waiting for the snow to melt in the Bitterroots. -- Idaho's Northwest Passage Website, 2002 Snake River: The Snake River originates in Yellowstone National Park at 9,500 feet and winds through southern Idaho before turning north to form the boundary between Idaho and Oregon. It finally joins the Columbia River near Pasco, Washington, at 340 feet in elevation, 1,036 miles from its source. How did it get its name? To identify themselves, Indians living along the river in southern Idaho used a hand sign that resembled the movement of a snake. Although it didn't mean "Snake", that name was given to this group of people, now known as Shoshone. The river flowing through the Snake Indian lands was given the tribal name. -- U.S. National Park Service, Wild and Scenic Rivers Website, 2002 |
| After our repast we continued our route along the west side of the river [Snake River's left bank, which today Washington State Highway 12 follows], where as well as on the opposite shore, the high hills approach it closely, till at the distance of three miles we halted opposite to two houses: the inhabitants consisted of five families of Chopunnish, among whom were Tetoh, or Sky, the younger of the two chiefs who accompanied us in the autumn to the great falls of the Columbia, and also our old pilot who had conducted us down the river to the Columbia. |
|
|
|
Washington State Highway 12:
Washington State Highway 12 in this area follows Pataha Creek, Megginson Gulch, Stemper Creek, and Alpowa Creek. It continues along Alpowa Creek until it merges with the Snake River near Silcott, Washington, and Chief Timothy State Park. Washington State Highway 12 approximates the path of Lewis and Clark on their return trip. The area is Grande Ronde formation of the Columbia River Basalt Group. The Grande Ronde Basalt is the most voluminous and areally extensive formation in the entire Columbia River Basalt Group, and underlies most of the Columbia Plateau. It has an estimated volume of more than 35,000 cubic miles, and its thickness varies widely depending on underlying topography; the thickest preserved section exceeds 3,300 feet in drill holes in the Pasco Basin, and sections 1,650 to 2,300 feet thick occur in the Blue Mountains and other uplifted or deeply incised areas. Grande Ronde flows make up 85 percent of the Columbia River Basalt's total volume, and occured from about 16.5 to 15.5 million years ago. The flows originated in eastern Washington and Oregon. -- Swanson and Wright, 1981, and U.S. Forest Service, Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area Website, 2002 |
| They both advised us to cross here [near Chief Timothy State Park, Washington], and ascend the Kooskooskee [Clearwater River] on the northeast side, this being the shortest and best route to the forks of that river, where we should find the Twistedhair, in whose charge we left our horses, and to which place they promised to show us the way. We did not hesitate to accept this offer, and therefore crossed with the assistance of three canoes; but as the night was coming on, we purchased a little wood and some roots of cows, and encamped, though we had made only fifteen miles to-day. ...... |
|
|
|
The Camp - May 4, 1806:
About 3 miles below Clarkston, Washington. |
| Back On the Clearwater |
| We collected our horses, and at seven o'clock set forward alone ...... Our road was across the plains for four and a half miles, to the entrance of the Kooskooskee [Clearwater River]. |
| "... Collected our horses and set out at 7 A.M. at 4 1/2 miles we arrived at the entrance of the Kooskooske, up the N. Eastern side of which we continued our march 12 ms. to a large lodge of 10 families having passed two other large mat lodges the one at 5 and the other at 8 Ms. from the mouth of the Kooskooske but not being able to obtain any provisions at either of those lodges continued our march to the third where we arrived at 1 P.M ..." [Lewis, May 5, 1806] |
| "... a white frost and verry cold this morning. we Set out having nothing to eat and proced. on up the river about 3 miles came to the forks at the mouth of the kooskooskee river. followed up Sd. river ..." [Ordway, May 5, 1806] |
|
|
Confluence Clearwater and Snake Rivers:
Confluence Overlook, Nez Perce National Historical Park: Confluence Overlook is interpreted at a highway pullout over looking the confluence and valleys of the Snake and Clearwater Rivers. The pullout is about 8 miles north of Lewiston, Idaho, on the Lewiston Grade of U.S. Highway 95. The scene is dominated by a rolling grassy foreground that slopes steeply down to the Clearwater River, more than a thousand feet below. A sense of the confluence area and the scale of the surrounding uplands -- part of the Nez Perce homeland -- can be gained from this vantage point. -- U.S. National Park Service Website, Nez Perce National Historical Park, 2002 Lewiston, Idaho, and Clarkston, Washington: Lewiston is not only a gateway to Hells Canyon, but Lewiston also is a seaport that leads to the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean. Together with its sister-city of Clarkston, Washington, the city was named for the explorers Lewis and Clark. -- Visit Idaho Website, 2002 
Clearwater River:
Clearwater River: The Clearwater River drains approximately a 9,645 square mile area. The subbasin extends approximately 100 miles north to south and 120 miles east to west. There are four major tributaries that drain into the mainstem Clearwater River: the Lochsa, Selway, South Fork Clearwater, and North Fork Clearwater Rivers. The Clearwater River has an international reputation as one of the best steelhead fisheries anywhere. The river and U.S. Highway 12 are part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. Developed recreation sites are primarily for boating and fishing, with camping available in a few locations. The North Fork of the Clearwater and the Lochsa Rivers provide miles of tumbling whitewater interspersed with quiet pools for migratory and resident fish. The Clearwater was used as a passageway by explorers and trappers, and later by miners and loggers because it was much more tame than its counterpart the Salmon River. -- Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002, Visit Idaho Website, 2002, and Idaho Museum of Natural History Website, 2002, Digital Atlas of Idaho Geology of the Lower Clearwater Basin: Geology is an important factor for the Clearwater basin because it influences soils, topography, climate, and sedimentation. The high plateau on the western part of the Clearwater basin in (Lolo/Middle Fork and Lower Clearwater), is made up of Miocene-age (17.5 to 6 million years ago) Columbia River basalt lava flows that flooded the ancestral valleys leaving preexisting hilltops standing like islands (steptoes) in a sea of basalt. This plateau has moderately sloping terrain with local elevations ranging from 2,500 to 3,500 feet, and some isolated buttes reaching as high as 5,000 feet. The easternmost extension of the Palouse loess system deposited windblown silt-sized material called loess on the basalt planes, and along with volcanic ash from many Cascade eruptions, mantle the western part of the Clearwater basin, strongly influencing soil formation, erosion and sedimentation into streams and rivers. -- Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002 
Snake River:
Snake River: The Snake River originates in Yellowstone National Park at 9,500 feet and winds through southern Idaho before turning north to form the boundary between Idaho and Oregon. It finally joins the Columbia River near Pasco, Washington, at 340 feet in elevation, 1,036 miles from its source. How did it get its name? To identify themselves, Indians living along the river in southern Idaho used a hand sign that resembled the movement of a snake. Although it didn't mean "Snake", that name was given to this group of people, now known as Shoshone. The river flowing through the Snake Indian lands was given the tribal name. Lewis and Clark traveled through this area on their journey to find an inland waterway to the Pacific. Many miles upriver from Hells Gate State Park, the Snake River winds through Hells Canyon, one of the deepest gorges in North America. This wild and spectacular area is best visited by boat; there are no roads leading through the canyon. Old homesteads, long-forgotten prospector cabins, and Native American petroglyphs offer a fascinating human story in the midst of the spectacular scenery. -- U.S. National Park Service, Wild and Scenic Rivers Website, 2002, and Idaho State Parks and Recreation Website, 2002 |
| We then proceeded up that river [Clearwater River], and at five miles reached a large mat house, but could not procure any provisions from the inhabitants, but on reaching another three miles beyond, we were surprised at the liberality of an Indian, who gave captain Clarke a very elegant gray mare, ...... Four miles beyond this house we came to another one, containing ten families, where we halted, and made our dinner [Ordway mentions (see below) "opposite the mouth of cottonwood creek", today's Lapwai Creek and the site of Spaulding, Idaho] ...... |
| "... about noon we came to another small Village opposite the mouth of cottonwood creek where we bought 2 dogs and dined & proceed on to Colters Creek & pah-map village where we camped ..." [Ordway, May 5, 1806] |
|
|
Lapwai Creek and Spalding, Idaho:
Lapwai Valley: Rev. Henry Harmon Spalding wrote about his first view of Lapwai Valley in the fall of 1836. "We road on and entered the valley. It proved to be larger than we expected. It is on a little stream emptying into Koos Koos from the south. We found it well-timbered with cotton wood, balm of gilead, birch, and a few pine. Soon found good soil." -- U.S. National Park Service Website, 2002, Nez Perce National Historical Park Spalding, Idaho: Spalding, Idaho, is along U.S. Highway 95 approximately 10 miles east of Lewiston, Idaho, at the confluence of the Clearwater River and Lapwai Creek. The present day community and park area of Spalding (officially named in 1897) was originally called Lapwai and served as a traditional homesite for over 11,000 years to the Thlep-thlep-weyma band of Nez Perces. Each summer they moved to higher elevations to hunt, fish, gather roots, berries, and other wild foods, returning each fall in time for the salmon 'run' on the Clearwater River. The location was ideal where Lapwai Creek flowed into the Clearwater River. A large boomground where trees and branches washed downstream by spring floods were deposited provided enough firewood for a village of over 200 people. Winters were usually milder at this 700-foot elevation and the bluffs provided shelter from the winds and storms. In November, 1836, Henry and Eliza Spalding established the first mission to the Nez Perce. The Spaldings built their first home at Thunder Hill, 2 miles up Lapwai Creek but heat and mosquitos forced them to move to the banks of the Clearwater River where morning and evening breezes made for more pleasant living conditions. In 1847, due to the murders of the Whitmans and 12 others at Waiilatpu, the Spaldings were ordered to close their mission. -- U.S. National Park Service Website, 2002, Nez Perce National Historical Park Geology of Nez Perce County: Almost all of Nez Perce County (includes Spaulding and the Lapwai areas) is underlain by the Miocene basalts of the Columbia River basalts which make up the steep sided plateau south of Lewiston. South of the suture zone, which runs east-west along the Clearwater River through Lewiston, these basalts lapped against Cretaceous and Jurassic island arc and sedimentary rocks of the Seven Devils complex and other accreted terranes. The Miocene basalts filled in and flowed up an ancestral Clearwater River canyon about 17 million years ago. -- Digital Atlas of Idaho Website, 2003 |
| After dinner we proceeded to the entrance of Colter's creek, [Potlatch River] at the distance of four miles, and having made twenty and a half miles, encamped on the lower side of it. Colter's creek [Potlatch River] rises not far from the Rocky mountains, and passing in the greater part of its course through a country well supplied with pine, discharges a large body of water. It is about twenty-five yards wide, with a pebbled bed and low banks. ...... |
| "... after dinner we continued our rout 4 miles to the entrace of Colter's Creek about 1/2 a mile above the rapid where we sunk the 1st canoe as we decended the river last fall. we encamped on the lower side of this creek at a little distance from two lodges of the Chopunnish nation having traveled 20 1/2 ms. today. ..." [Lewis, May 5, 1806] |
|
|
Potlatch River:
Potlatch River: The Potlatch River forms a portion of the northern boundary of Idaho's Nez Perce County. It enters from the north and flows southerly in a fairly deep canyon to a confluence with the Clearwater about 10 miles east of Lewiston. -- Nez Perce County Website, 2002 Geology of Nez Perce County: Nez Perce County is on the eastern margin of the Columbia River Plateau, a large area that was covered by lava (basalt) flows in Miocene times. The terrain covered by the flows was very irregular; therefore, the depth of the lava varies widely from place to place. Elevated portions of the old pre-lava surfaces are exposed in places, like islands surrounded by basalt. There were several flows laid down over an epoch of thousands of years. Between some of the lava flows there were long periods of inactivity in which weathered surfaces developed. Sediment washed from the weathered surfaces and was deposited in lakes, streambeds, or depressions along the eastern margins of the basaltic plain. Later, lava flows covered these weathered slopes and deposits of sediment, forming a layer of sand, gravel, silt, and volcanic ash known as the "Latah beds", but they are exposed on canyon walls below the elevation of the present plateaus. Deposits of sand, gravel, and clay, of economic value, are found in some of these Latah beds. Along the Snake and Salmon Rivers on the southwestern border of Nez Perce County erosion has uncovered metamorphosed rhyolite and pyroclastics related to the Seven Devils volcano. The color of these rocks is predominately green and they are commonly designated greenstone. Recent stream action has produced sand and gravel bars along the present course of the rivers. Deposits of sand, gravel, silt, and boulders in former stream channels are found in the Lewiston area. These deposits are worked to some extent for the sand and gravel. Other deposits are on the floor of the Lapwai Valley and in the Cow Creek area south of Genesee. -- Nez Perce County Website, 2002 |
| "... the natives have a considerable salmon fishery up Colter's Creek [Potlatch River] . this stream extends itself to the pirs of the rocky mountains and in much the greater part of it's course passes through a well timbered pine country it is 25 yds. wide and discharges a large body of water. the banks low and bed formed of pebbles ... ..." [Lewis, May 6, 1806] |
|
|
|
The Camp - May 5, 1806:
Along the Clearwater River, south side of the Potlatch River. |
| We here found three men, of a nation called Skeetsomish, who reside at the falls of a large river, emptying itself into the north side of the Columbia. This river takes its rise from a large lake in the mountains [Lake Coeur d'Alene], at no great distance from the falls where these natives live. We shall designate this river, hereafter, by the name of Clarke's river [???], as we do not know its Indian appellation, and we are the first whites who have ever visited its principal branches; for the Great Lake river mentioned by Mr. Fidler, if at all connected with Clarke's river, must be a very inconsiderable branch. To this river, moreover, which we have hitherto called Clarke's river, which rises in the southwest mountains [Oregon Cascades], we restored the name of Towahnahiooks [Deschutes River], the name by which it is known to the Eneeshurs. ...... |
| "... at this place ... [at their camp of May 5, 1806] ... we met with three men of a nation called the Skeets-so-mish who reside at the falls of a large river disharging itself into the Columbia on it's East side to the North of the entrance of Clark's river. this river they informed us headed in a large lake in the mountains and that the falls below which they resided was at no great distance from the lake. these people are the same in their dress and appearance with the Chopunnish, tho their language is intirely different a circumstance which I did not learn untill we were about to set out and it was then too late to take a vocabulary. The river here called Clark's river is that which we have heretofore called the Flathead river, I have thus named it in honour of my worthy friend and fellow traveller Capt. Clark. for this stream we know no indian name and no white man but ourselves was ever on it's principal branches. the river which Fidler calls the great lake river may possibly be a brance of it but if so it is but a very inconsiderable branch and may as probably empty itself into the Skeetssomish as into that river. the stream which I have heretofore called Clark's river has it's three principal sources in mountains Hood, Jefferson & the Northern side of the S. W. Mountains and is of course a short river. this river I shall in future call the To-wannahiooks river it being the name by which it is called by the Eneshur nation. ..." [Lewis, May 6, 1806] |
|
|
|
Great Lake River:
The "Great lake River" appears on Aaron Arrowsmith's map of 1802, based on information from Peter Fidler. It headed near the Saskatchewan and ran into Mackenzie's "Tacoutche-Tess" River, which was assumed to be the Columbia or a major tributary thereof. No known river really matches the description. The captains were now trying to fit this largely conjectureal stream into their own increasing knowledge of Western geogrphy by making it a tributary of eithr Clark's River or the "Skeetsomish." -- Moulton, v.7 |
| About two o'clock we collected our horses and set out [proceeding up the Clearwater River], accompanied by Weahkoonut, with ten or twelve men, and a man who said he was the brother of the Twistedhair. |
| "... The Kooskooske river may be safely navigated at present all the rocks of the sholes and rapids are perfectly covered; the current is strong, the water clear and cold. this river is rising fast. The timber of this river which consists principally of the long leafed pine which commences about 2 miles below our present encampment on Colters Creek ..." [Clark, May 6, 1806] |
| At four miles we came to a single house of three families, but we could not procure provisions of any kind; and five miles further we halted for the night near another house, built like the rest, of sticks, mats and dried hay, and containing six families. ...... |
| "... about noon we Set out proceeded on up the river pasd. a large lodge, Some part of the road is rockey & rough in the evening we Camped near a Small village. the big horn chief and a number other Indians Camped with us ..." [Ordway, May 6, 1806] |
|
|
|
The Camp - May 6, 1806:
On the Clearwater River, below Pine Creek. |
| We proceeded up the river with the brother of the Twistedhair as a guide. The Kooskooskee [Clearwater River] is now rising fast, the water is clear and cold, and as all the socks and shoals are now covered, the navigation is safe, notwithstanding the rapidity of the current. The timber begins about the neighbourhood of Colter's creek [Potlatch River], and consists chiefly of l ong-leafed pine. After going four miles, we reached a house of six families, below the entrance of a small creek [Bedrock Creek], where our guide advised us to cross the river, as the route was better, and the game more abundant near the mouth of the Chopunnish. [North Fork Clearwater River]. We therefore unloaded, and by means of a single canoe, passed to the south side in about four hours, during which time we dined. An Indian of one of the houses now brought two canisters of powder, which his dog had discovered under ground in a bottom some miles above [at the mouth of Jack's Creek, near Lenore, Idaho] . We immediately knew them to be the same we had buried last autumn ...... We set out at three o'clock, and pursued a difficult and stony road for two miles, when we left the river and ascended the hills on the right, which begin to resemble mountains. But when we reached the heights, we saw before us a beautiful level country ...... |
|
|
|
Jack's Creek:
In the Journey notes written at Fort Clatsop (about the Journey to the Pacific in 1805), Clark refers to this creek as "Canister run", 19 miles from Canoe Camp, passed 16 rapids. Moulton (v.6, 1990) lists Canister Run as today's Canyon Creek, but later, on the return journey, Moulton lists Canister Run as Jacks Creek (v.7, 1991). The Clearwater Historical Society lists it as Jacks Creek: "The return trip in 1806 brought the Corps of Discovery up the Clearwater River to Canister Creek (Jacks Creek at Lenore, Idaho) near where they had camped the year before." -- Moulton, v.6, 1990, and v.7, 1991, and Clearwater Historical Society Website, 2002 |
| As we entered the plain Neeshnepahkee, the Cutnose, overtook us, and after accompanying us a few miles, turned to the right to visit some of his people. ...... Having crossed the plain a little to the south of east, we descended a long steep hill, at the distance of five miles, to a creek six yards wide [Big Canyon Creek], which empties itself into the Kooskooskee [Clearwater River]. We ascended this little stream for a mile, and encamped at an Indian establishment of six houses, which seem to have been recently evacuated. Here we were joined by Neeshnepahkee, and the Shoshonee who had interpreted for us on the fifth. |
| "... in short it is a beautifull fertile and picturesque country. ... we called Musquetoe Creek in consequence of being infested with swarms of those insects on our arrival at it. ... here we remained all night ..." [Lewis, May 7, 1806] |
|
|
|
Big Canyon Creek:
Also called Canyon Creek, in Nez Perce County, Idaho. Clark refers to this as "Musquetoe Creek" in his journals, and "Creek Small" and "Hunting C" on maps. -- Moulton, v.7, 1991 |
| From the plain we observed that the spurs of the Rocky mountains are still perfectly covered with snow, which the Indians inform us is so deep that we shall not be able to pass before the next full moon, that is, the first of June. ...... |
| "... The spurs of the rocky mountains which were in view from the high plain to day were perfectly covered with snow. The Indians inform us that the snow is yet so deep on the mountains that we shall not be able to pass them untill after the next full moon or about the first of June. others set the time at still a more distant period. this unwelcom intiligence to men confined to a diet of horsebeef and roots, and who are as anxious as we are to return to the fat plains of the Missouri and thence to our native homes ..." [Clark, May 7, 1806] |
|
|
|
The Camp - May 7, 1806:
Near Peck, Idaho. |
| Most of the hunters set out at daylight. By eleven o'clock they all returned, with four deer, and a duck of an uncommon kind ...... The mother of the Twistedhair, and Neeshnepahkeeook now drew a sketch, which we preserved, of all the waters west of the Rocky mountains. They make the main southern branch of Lewis's river [Snake River], much more extensive than the other, and place a great number of Shoshonee villages on its western side. |
| "... The morning of this day was pleasant; and we remained here some time, to endeavour to kill some deer; and the hunters were sent out. Here some of the natives came to our camp, and informed us, that we could not cross the mountains for a moon and an half; as the snow was too deep, and no grass for our horses to subsist on. We have the mountains in view from this place, all covered white with snow ..." [Gass, May 8, 1806] |
| Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon we set out, in company with Neeshnepahkeeook and other Indians, the brother of the Twistedhair having left us. Our route was up a high steep hill to a level plain, with little wood, through which we passed in a direction parallel to the river, for four miles, when we met the Twistedhair and six of his people. To this chief we had confided our horses and a part of our saddles, last autumn ...... |
| "... the road led us up a steep and high hill to a high and level plain mostly untimbered, through which we passed parrallel with the river about 4 miles when we met the 'Twisted hair" and a party of six men ... we informed the Cheifs that we should continue our march to the first water and encamp accordingly we moved on and the Indians all followed. about two miles on the road we arrived at a little branch which run to the wright. here we encamped for the evening having traveled 6 miles today ..." [Clark, May 8, 1806] |
| "... About 3 o'clock we continued our journey; passed over a very high hill, and encamped on a small run; where we met our other old chief, who had gone down the river with us last fall. He told us that his men had found our saddles, where we had hid them, and that he had them safe. He also gave us an account of thirty-six of our horses, and where they were ..." [Gass, May 8, 1806] |
|
|
|
The Camp - May 8, 1806:
A few miles west or southwest of Orofino, Idaho, on one of several small creeks flowing south into Little Canyon Creek. |
| In the morning after sending out several hunters, we proceeded through a level rich country, similar to that of yesterday, for six miles, when we reached the house of the Twistedhair, situated near some larch trees, and a few bushes of balsam fir. ...... As soon as we halted at this place, we went with the Twistedhair to the spot where he had buried our saddles, and two other young Indians were despatched after the horses. ...... Late in the afternoon, the Twistedhair returned with about half the saddles we had left in the autumn, and some powder and lead which was buried at the same place. Soon after, the Indians brought us twenty-one of our horses, the greater part of whom were in excellent order, though some had not yet recovered from hard usage, and three had sore backs. We were however very glad to procure them in any condition. ...... |
| "... we Set out & proced. on about 6 miles to the twisted hairs village where we Camped. the chief Sent for our horses & pack Saddles one of our men went for the ammunition we left at canoe Camp. ... [See October 5, 1805 entry] ... ..." [Ordway, May 9, 1806] |
| Our camp was in an open plain, and soon became very uncomfortable, for the wind was high and cold, and the rain and hail which began about seven o'clock, changed in about two hours to a heavy fall of snow, which continued till after six o'clock the next morning when it ceased, after covering the ground eight inches deep, and leaving the air keen and cold. |
| "... these plains are Smooth Soil rich & filled with commass wild onions and white roots calld. halse & other roots good for food which the natives live on at the Season of the year. the evening cold rainy & windy ..." [Ordway, May 9, 1806] |
|
|
|
The Camp - May 9, 1806:
Near modern Orofino, Idaho, on the Nez Perce Reservation. The Nez Perce brought 21 of the Corps' horses to them, cared for all winter by the Nez Perce. |
| To The Rockies |
| Our camp was in an open plain [camp of May 9, 1806, was near today's Orofino, Idaho], and soon became very uncomfortable, for the wind was high and cold, and the rain and hail which began about seven o'clock, changed in about two hours to a heavy fall of snow, which continued till after six o'clock the next morning [May 10, 1806], when it ceased, after covering the ground eight inches deep, and leaving the air keen and cold. We soon collected our horses, and after a scanty breakfast of roots, set out on a course S. 35o E. across the plains [Camas Prairie], the soil of which being covered with snow, we could only judge from observing that near the ravines, where it had melted, the mud was deep, black, and well supplied with quamash. The road was very slippery, and the snow stuck to the horses' feet and made them slip down very frequently. After going about sixteen miles, we came to the hills of Commearp creek [Lawyer Creek], which are six hundred feet in height, but the tops of which only are covered with snow, the lower parts as well as the bottoms of the creek having had nothing but rain while it snowed in the high plains. On descending these hills to the creek, we reached about four o'clock, the house of Tunnachemootoolt, where was displayed the flag which we had given him, raised on a staff: under this we were received with due form, and then conducted a short distance to a good spot for an encampment, on Commearp creek [Lawyer Creek]. ...... |
| "... we are now as near the Mountains as we can git untill Such times as the Snow is nearly gone of the mountains as we are too eairly to cross ..." [Ordway, May 10, 1806] |
|
|
|
Geology of the Camas Prairie:
Lewis County, on the south side of the Clearwater River, contains the steep sided Camas Prairie plateau underlain by Miocene lava flows of the Columbia River basalts. Poking through at several places are Cretaceous and Jurassic island arc rocks of the Accreted terranes. The Suture zone runs just east of the county line along the Clearwater River through Kamiah. These plateaus are unusual, since the flat ground is on top, and the cities are generally in narrow valley bottoms. The Clearwater River cuts through the plateau, following the track of the Cretaceous suture zone. -- Digital Atlas of Idaho Website, 2003 |
| the chief had a large leathern tent spread for us, and desired that we would make that our home whilst we remained at his village. We removed there, and having made a fire, and cooked a supper of horse-beef and roots, collected all the distinguished men present, and spent the evening [May 10, 1806] in explaining who we were, the objects of our journey, and giving answers to their inquiries. ...... |
|
|
|
The Camp - May 10, 1806 to May 12, 1806:
On Lawyer Creek, near Kamiah, Idaho. |
| we collected our horses [Tuesday, May 13, 1806] and proceeded for two miles in a southeastern direction [down Lawyer Creek], crossing a branch from the right [Sevenmile Creek], at the distance of a mile. We then turned nearly north, and crossing an extensive open bottom [just south of the present city of Kamiah]; about a mile and a half wide, reached the bank of the Kooskooskee [Clearwater River]. |
|
|
|
Kamiah, Idaho:
Older than the recorded history of the West, Kamiah was the winter home of the Nez Perce Indians. It was here they came to fish for steelhead, a staple in their diet, and to manufacture "Kamia" ropes, hence the name Kamiah, meaning the place of "many rope litters". Lewis and Clark camped for several weeks during the early spring of 1806 in the Kamiah Valley waiting for the snow to melt before they could continue their journey east. The valley is rich in the heritage and legends of the Nez Perce and it was here, among the ancestors of the present day Nez Perce, that the Appaloosa horse was first bred, primarily for use as a war animal. -- Kamiah Chamber of Commerce Website, 2003 |
| Here we expected the canoe which they had promised; but although a man had been despatched with it at the appointed time, he did not arrive before sunset. We therefore encamped [on the banks of the Clearwater near the present town of Kamiah], with a number of Indians who had followed us from the village, |
| "... at 1 P.M. we collected our horses and set out for the river escorted by a number of the natives on horseback. we followed the creek downwards about two miles, passing a stout branch at 1 m. which flowed in on the wright. our course S. E. we now entered an extensive open bottom of the Kooskooske R. through which we passed nearly N. about 1 1/2 miles and halted on the bank of the river at the place appointed to meet the canoe. ... we remained here all night; ..." [Lewis, May 13, 1806] |
|
|
|
The Camp - May 13, 1806:
On the banks of the Clearwater River, near the present town of Kamiah. |
| and in the morning [Wednesday, May 14, 1806], after sending out some hunters, transported the baggage by means of the canoe, and then drove our horses into the river, over which they swam without accident, although it is one hundred and fifty yards wide, and the current very rapid [Clearwater River]. |
|
|
Clearwater River at Kamiah:
|
| We then descended the river about half a mile, and formed our camp on the spot which the Indians had recommended [today this camp is known as "Camp Chopunnish" or "Long Camp"]. It was about forty paces from the river, and formerly an Indian habitation; but nothing remained at present but a circle thirty yards in diameter, sunk in the ground about four feet, with a wall round it of nearly three and a half feet in height. In this place we deposited our baggage, and round its edges formed our tents of sticks and grass. This situation is in many respects advantageous. It is an extensive level bottom, thinly covered with long-leafed pine, with a rich soil, affording excellent pasture, and supplied, as well as the high and broken hills on the east and northeast, with the best game in the neighbourhood; while its vicinity to the river [Clearwater River] makes it convenient for the salmon, which are now expected daily. ...... |
|
|
|
The Camp - May 14, 1806 to June 9, 1806:
The Lewis and Clark Expedition spent from May 14, 1806 to June 9, 1806 at a spot near Kamiah, Idaho, while waiting for winter to end in order to cross the Bitterroots and continue the eastward trek home. The camp at "Camp Chopunnish," was located near Kamiah, Idaho, on the Nez Perce Reservation, and was the longest camp of any, other than the three winter encampments of the Corps. The Corps had to wait until the snow melted in the mountains so that they could pass over the Continental Divide and return to the east. Today there is an interpretive sign at a pullout on U.S. Highway 12 (mile 68), approximately 1 mile east of Kamiah, Idaho. The actual camp site is approximately 2 miles downstream along the Clearwater River on private property. |
| The country along the Rocky mountains for several hundred miles in length and about fifty wide, is a high level plain; in all its parts extremely fertile, and in many places covered with a growth of tall long-leafed pine. This plain is chiefly interrupted near the streams of water, where the hills are steep and lofty; but the soil is good, being unincumbered by much stone, and possess more timber than the level country. Under shelter of these hills, the bottom lands skirt the margin of the rivers, and though narrow and confined, are still fertile and rarely inundated. Nearly the whole of this wide spread tract is covered with a profusion of grass and plants, which are at this time as high as the knee. |
| "... "The Country along the rocky mountains for Several hundred Miles in length and about 50 in width is leavel extremely fertile and in many parts Covered with a tall and opult. growth of the long leafed pine. near the Watercourses the hills are lofty tho' are covered with good Soil and not remarkably Stoney and possess more timber than the leavel country. the bottom lands on the Water courses are reather narrow and confined tho' fertile and Seldom inundated. this Country would form an extensive Settlement ..." [Clark, May 28, 1806] |
Return to:
[Volcanoes and History Menu] ...
[Living With Volcanoes Menu] ...
