The Volcanoes of Lewis and ClarkNovember 5, 1805
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November 4 Vancouver, Washington, Columbia River Slough to Ridgefield NWR |
November 5
Heading to the Pacific, Ridgefield NWR to Prescott Beach, Oregon Ridgefield NWR, FIVE VOLCANOES, Bachelor Island, Lewis River, Multnomah Channel, Sauvie Island, St. Helens (Oregon), Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, and Mount Hood, Martin Bluff, Deer Island, Woodland (Washington), Goble Volcanics, Sandy Island, Kalama River, Prescott Beach (Oregon) |
CONTINUE
November 6 Heading to the Pacific, Prescott Beach to Wallace Island |
On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes. |
The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark |
To the Pacific - November 1805 |
Heading to the Pacific Ridgefield NWR to Prescott Beach, Oregon |
Lewis and Clark's camp of November 4, 1805, today is part of the Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge. |
Our choice of a camp had been very unfortunate; for on a sand island opposite to us [???] were immense numbers of geese, swan-ducks, and other wild fowl, who, during the whole night, serenaded us with a confusion of noises which completely prevented our sleeping. During the latter part of the night it rained, and we therefore willingly left our encampment at an early hour. |
"... Rained all the after part of last night, rain continues this morning, I lept but verry little last night for the noise Kept dureing the whole of the night by the Swans, Geese, white & Grey Brant Ducks &c.; on a Small Sand Island close under the Lard. Side; they were emensely noumerous, and their noise horid ..." [Clark, November 5, 1805] |
We passed at three miles a small prairie, where the river is only three quarters of a mile in width. ...... At eight miles we came to the lower point of an island [the island there today is Bachelor Island], separated from the right side by a narrow channel [Bachelor Island Slough], |
on which, a short distance above the end of the island, is situated a large village [the Lewis River enters the Columbia river at the downstream end of Bachelor Island] ...... the front has fourteen houses, which are ranged for a quarter of a mile along the channel. ...... |
The river here again widens to the space of a mile and a half. As we descended we soon observed, behind a sharp point of rocks [Warrior Point on Sauvie Island], a channel a quarter of a mile wide [Multnomah Channel], |
which we suppose must be the one taken by the canoes yesterday on leaving Image-canoe island [the upper end of Sauvie Island, on the 1805 journey down the Columbia, Lewis and Clark did not separate Sauvie Island from Hayden Island. ]. |
A mile below the channel [Multnomah Channel] are some low cliffs of rocks [on the left bank is the location of today's St. Helens, Oregon] |
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St. Helens, Oregon:
St. Helens, a deep-water seaport is located on the Columbia River 29 miles northwest of Portland, and 66 miles southwest of Astoria. It is a successful combination of recreation and industry, urban and rural, old and new. Situated on the beautiful Columbia River, a view to the east and north shows the majestic peaks of Mount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens. Meriwether Lewis and William Clark passed the rocky bluffs on which St. Helens was later to be built, in the winter of 1805 on their memorable journey to the Pacific Ocean. Many of the old sailing ships stopped in the area to trade with the Indians. Nathaniel Wyeth of Boston established a temporary fort in 1832 at the lower end of Sauvie Island just across from St. Helens. The place of his first fort is still known as Warrior Rock. Bartholomew White had the first sawmill in St. Helens as early as 1844. This was taken over by Henry Knighton, en emigrant, in 1845. Knighton filed a pre-emption claim on land for the site of St. Helens in 1846 and moved here in 1847. Knighton had his claim surveyed and mapped in 1848-1850. He believed that his town, which he had first named Plymouth (after the New England town) and later Casenau (after a prominent Indian Chief) and eventually changed to St. Helens, would easily surpass the newly founded village of Portland as a fresh water port. Perhaps it might have, but the Pacific Mail docks in St. Helens burned, and Portland businessmen persuaded Pacific Mail to move its terminal to the new town on the Columbia River at the mouth of the Willamette River. Authorities differ on the source of the name of St. Helens. Some believe that Knighton named the settlement for the mountain plainly visible across the river, others insist that the Knighton family came from St. Helens, England, and named it for the old home town. The famous geologist, Thomas Condon, taught the first school in St. Helens. In 1854, Columbia County was created, being formerly a part of Washington County. After a heated battle, St. Helens was named the county seat in August 1903. The old courthouse made of locally quarried stone, was built in 1906. The resent town site was chartered by an act of the Legislature on February 25, 1889. The post office was established in 1853. -- St. Helens Chamber of Commerce Website, 2003 |
Had the weather been clear, the explorers would have been able to see Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, and Mount Hood from this location., |
near which is a large island on the right side, and two small islands a little further on. Here we met two canoes ascending the river. At this place the shore on the right becomes bold and rocky, [Martin Bluff] and the bank is bordered by a range of high hills covered with a thick growth of pine: |
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Geology of Martin Bluff:
Andesitic to rhyolitic tuff (Eocene), pumiceous lapilli tuff, and pumiceous and lithic tuff breccia lithologically similar to tuff of the Goble Volcanics unit. Well-exposed in cliffs along the east bank of the Columbia River near Martin Bluff, in nearby railroad cuts, and along Interstate Highway 5 northeast of Martin Island. -- Evarts, 2002 |
on the other side is an extensive low island [Deer Island], separated from the left side by a narrow channel. |
Here we stopped to dine [Deer Island], and found the island open, with an abundant growth of grass, and a number of ponds well supplied with fowls; and at the lower extremity are the remains of an old village. We procured a swan, several ducks, and a brant, and saw some deer on the island. Besides this island, the lower extremity of which is seventeen miles from the channel just mentioned, we passed two or three smaller ones in the same distance. Here the hills on the right retire from the river, leaving a high plain [location of today's Woodland, Washington, on the flood plains of the Lewis River], between which, on the left bank, a range of high hills running southeast and covered with pine, forms a bold and rocky shore. |
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Woodland, Washington: |
At the distance of six miles, however, these hills again return and close the river on both sides [near Goble, Oregon and Kalama, Washington]. |
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Goble Volcanics:
The thick sequence of basaltic flows and pyroclastic rocks (late Eocene-early Oligocene) that crop out on both sides of the Columbia River in southwestern Washington and northwestern Oregon are mapped as Goble Volcanics in Oregon, and informal or lithologic names are applied to the rocks on the Washington side. The type area is the vicinity of Goble, Oregon, where a thickness of more than 5,000 feet was mapped by Wilkingson and others (1946). The volcanics form cliffs along the Columbia River (and today's Interstate-5) for several miles. Subaerial lava flows, agglomerates, and oxidized soil horizons are typical features of the cliff exposures. The basalt is generally fresh, fine grained, and has masses of iddingsite scattered throughout along with microphenocrysts of plagioclase and pyroxene. Rock types include pillow, columnar or hackly jointed, massive or vesicular basalt flows and dikes. -- Armentrout, etc., 1980, and Evarts, 2002 |
We proceeded on, [passing Sandy Island] and at four miles reached a creek on the right [Kalama River], about twenty yards in width, immediately below which is an old village. |
Three miles further, and at the distance of thirty-two miles from our camp of last night, we halted under a point of highland, with thick pine trees on the left bank of the river. [Prescott Beach County Park] ...... The river is here deep, and about a mile and a half in width. Here too the ridge of low mountains running northwest and southeast, cross the river, and form the western boundary of the plain through which we have just passed [The Coast Range]. This great plain or valley begins above the mouth of Quicksand river [Sandy River], and is about sixty miles wide in a straight line, while on the right and left it extends to a great distance: it is a fertile and delightful country, shaded by thick groves of tall timber, watered by small ponds, and running on both sides of the river. The soil is rich, and capable of any species of culture; but in the present condition of the Indians, its chief production is the wappatoo root, which grows spontaneously and exclusively in this region. Sheltered as it is on both sides, the temperature is much milder than that of the surrounding country; for even at this season of the year we observe very little appearance of frost. During its whole extent it is inhabited by numerous tribes of Indians, who either reside in it permanently, or visit its waters in quest of fish and wappatoo roots: we gave it the name of the Columbia valley. |
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The Camp - November 5, 1805:
The Corps camped "under a point of high ground, with thick pine trees", on the Oregon side of the Columbia River, at what is today Prescott Beach County Park. Prescott Beach is located off Oregon Highway 30, south of Rainier, Oregon. Interpretive sign. |
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