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The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark

November 1, 1805

Columbia River Gorge -
Cascade Locks to Bonneville

 
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PREVIOUS

October 31
"Lower Falls of the Columbia", Cascade Locks
November 1

Columbia River Gorge,
Cascades Locks to Bonneville

"Lower Falls of the Columbia", Cascade Locks, Bridge of the Gods, Table Mountain Landslide, Rapids below Cascade Locks, Bradford Island, Bonneville Vicinity and Bonneville Dam, Fort Rains and North Bonneville
CONTINUE

November 2
Columbia River Gorge, Beacon Rock to Rooster Rock
 

On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes.


Map, Lewis and Clark in the Pacific Northwest
(Click map for brief summary about the area)



The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark
To the Pacific - November 1805
Columbia River Gorge
Cascade Locks to Bonneville

Friday, November 1, 1805

The Lewis and Clark camp of October 30 and 31, 1805 was on an island on the Washington side of the Columbia River, just north of today's Bridge of the Gods. This area is today known as Cascade Locks. The island is now under the waters of Bonneville Dam.


Along the Journey - November 1, 1805
Map, 1887, Cascade Locks vicinity, click to enlarge Map, 1911 USGS topo map of Cascade Locks to Bonneville area, click to enlarge Image, 1927, Cascade Locks, click to enlarge Image, 1929, Cascade Locks, click to enlarge Cascade Locks:
  1. 1887 Map (section of original), Columbia River and the Cascade Locks vicinity. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: The Columbia River from Celilo to the mouth showing locations of the salmon fisheries, 1887. Scale ca. 1:375,000, Relief shown by hachures. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Engineer Office, G.P.O. 1888. University of Washington Archives #UW128. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002
  2. 1911 Map (section of original), from Mount Hood and Vicinity 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1907 and 1909-1911, contour interval of 100 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  3. 1927 aerial view, Cascade Locks. (Click to enlarge). A Burner from Wind River Mill entering Cascade Locks, Oregon. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Archives #700-41. Photograph Date: August 1927. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002
  4. 1929 aerial view, Cascade Locks. (Click to enlarge). U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Archives. Photograph Date: September 8, 1929. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002

Cascade Locks:
In 1896 the Federal Government built a series of locks around the treacherous Cascades rapids. In November, 1878, construction began. However, it was not until November 1896, that the locks were dedicated and opened for use. Delays in construction included reduction of appropriations by Congress, winter storms, high water, deep snows, and delays in receiving materials. During this time, the community grew from a small settlement of Native Americans and three white families to a booming construction town with all the flavor of the wild west. By 1893, there were about 1,000 inhabitants, many living in tents, shacks, and other temporary buildings. There were many saloons established, and it was during this time that the community was frequently called "Whiskey Flat". After the construction of the locks, the town became Cascade Locks. The Cascade Locks Marine Park has an Interpretive sign, trail, and museum. -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2002, Lewis & Clark Bicentennial of Oregon Website, 2002, and City of Cascade Locks Website, 2002


The morning was cool and the wind high from the northeast. The Indians who arrived last night, took their empty canoes on their shoulders and carried them below the great shoot, where they put them in the water and brought them down the rapid, till at the distance of two and a half miles they stopped to take in their loading, which they had been afraid to trust in the last rapid, and had therefore carried by land from the head of the shoot.
"... Set all hands packing the loading over th portage which is below the Grand Shutes and is 940 yards of bad way over rocks & on Slipery hill Sides The Indians who came down in 2 Canoes last night packed their fish over a portage of 2 1/2 miles to avoid a 2d 'Shute'. four of them took their canoes over the 1st portage and run the 2d Shute ..." [Clark, November 1, 1805]

In 1926 the Bridge of the Gods was constructed at the base of the Cascade Locks area.


Along the Journey - November 1, 1805
Map, 1929 USGS topo map of the Cascade Locks area showing Bridge of the Gods, click to enlarge Image, 1929, Cascade Locks, click to enlarge Image, 1926, Bridge of the Gods, click to enlarge Bridge of the Gods:
  1. 1929 Map (section of original), from Hood River 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1925-26, contour interval of 100 feet. This 1929 map shows a section of the 1911 map above (see Cascade Locks) with the location of the Bridge of the Gods. The Bridge of the Gods was built in 1926. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1929 aerial view looking downstream at Cascade Locks and Bridge of the Gods. (Click to enlarge). Washington State is on the right and Oregon is on the left. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Historical Archives. Photograph Date: September 8, 1929. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002
  3. 1926, Bridge of the Gods. (Click to enlarge). This bridge takes its name from an Indian myth describing a large natural rock bridge over the Columbia River along the Oregon-Washington border. Built by the Wauna Toll Bridge Company of Walla Walla, Washington, the original bridge was 1,127 feet long. When the Bonneville Dam was constructed the structure was raised and lengthened to accommodate the rising water level. The bridge is significant not only as a fine example of cantilever technology and as a major crossing of the Columbia River, but also because of its location in the Columbia River Gorge. -- Oregon Department of Transportation Website, 2002

Bridge of the Gods:
The Bridge of the Gods is a cantilever toll bridge spanning the river just west of Cascade Locks, and occupies a place where, according to Indian legend, a natural bridge at one time arched the river. This bridge, they say, was cast into the river when Tyhee Sahale, the Supreme Being, became angry with his two sons, who had quarreled over the beautiful Loowit, guardian of a sacred flame on the bridge. The two sons and the girl, crushed in the destruction of the bridge, whose debris created the Cascades, were resurrected as Mount Hood, Mount Adams, and Mount St. Helens. The present man-made Bridge of the Gods was built in 1926, and was raised in 1938 to provide clearance over the rising waters behind Bonneville Dam. The huge rocks of the legendary, ancient natural bridge lie beneath the waters of the Columbia River just upstream from the new bridge. The Bridge of the Gods, located 2.6 miles above the Bonneville Dam, has a fixed span with a clearance of 135 feet over a middle width of 284 feet. -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2002, City of Cascade Locks Website, 2002, and NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003


After their example we carried our small canoe, and all the baggage across the slippery rocks, to the foot of the shoot. The four large canoes were next brought down, by slipping them along poles, placed from one rock to another, and in some places by using partially streams which escaped along side of the river. We were not, however, able to bring them across without three of them receiving injuries, which obliged us to stop at the end of the shoot to repair them.
"... We got all our Canoes and baggage below the Great Shute 3 of the canoes being Leakey from injures recved in hauling them over the rocks, obliged us to delay to have them repaired a bad rapid just below us ..." [Clark, November 1, 1805]
"... we got all our baggage over the Portage of 940 yards, after which we got the 4 large Canoes over by Slipping them over the rocks on poles placed across from one rock to another, and at Some places along partial Streams of the river. in passing those canoes over the rocks &c.; three of them recived injuries which obliged us to delay to have them repared. ..." [Clark, November 1, 1805]
At this shoot we saw great numbers of sea-otters [seals]; but they are so shy that it is difficult to reach them with the musket: one of them that was wounded to-day sunk and was lost. Having by this portage avoided the rapid and shoot of four hundred yards in length, we re-embarked, passed at a mile and a half the bad rapid opposite to the old village on the right,


Along the Journey - November 1, 1805
Map, 1814, Lower Falls of the Columbia, click to enlarge Image, 1912, Rapids below Cascade Locks, click to enlarge Rapids below Cascade Locks:
  1. 1814 Map, Lower Falls of the Columbia, by Lewis and Clark. (Click to enlarge). This map is found in Travels to the source of the Missouri River and across the American continent to the Pacific Ocean : performed by order of the government of the United States, in the years 1804, 1805, and 1806, by Captains Lewis and Clarke. Published from the official report, 1814.
  2. 1912, A steamboat on The Rapids below the Cascade Locks. (Click to enlarge). Original from: "Puget Sound and Western Washington Cities-Towns Scenery" by Robert A. Reid, Robert A. Reid Publisher, Seattle, 1912, p.192. Archival photograph by Steve Nicklas, NGS/RSD. Image from the NOAA Photo Archives Coastline Collection #line2185. -- NOAA Photo Archives Website, 2002


and making our way through the rocks, saw the house just below the end of the portage; the eight vaults near it; and at the distance of four miles from the head of the shoot, reached a high rock, which forms the upper part of an island [Bradford Island] near the left shore.


Along the Journey - November 1, 1805
Map, 1911 USGS topo map of the Bonneville area, click to enlarge Image, 1928, Columbia River and Hamilton and Bradford Islands, click to enlarge Image, pre-1938, Columbia River and Bradford Island, click to enlarge Image, Aerial view, Bonneville Dam, looking east, annotated, click to enlarge Image, Aerial view, Bonneville Dam, looking west, annotated, click to enlarge Bradford Island:
  1. 1911 Map (section of original), from Mount Hood and Vicinity 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1907 and 1909-1911, contour interval of 100 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1928, Columbia River, Hamilton and Bradford Islands, and vicinity, prior to the construction of the Bonneville Lock and Dam. (Click to enlarge). View is looking upstream with Washington State on the left and Oregon on the right. The Table Mountain Landslide is prominent jutting into the Columbia River from the Washington side (upper third of photo). Hamilton Island is the big island in the foreground and Bradford Island is across from the Table Mountain Landslide. U.S. Corps of Engineers Historical Archives #700-64. Photograph Date: April 11, 1928. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002
  3. pre-1938 view of Bradford Island and the construction Bonneville Dam on the Columbia River. (Click to enlarge). Oregon State Archives, Oregon Department of Transportation #OHDM004. Photograph Date: pre-1938, Photographer: Brubaker Aerial Surveys. -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2002
  4. Aerial view, Columbia River and Bonneville Dam, looking east, annotated. (Click to enlarge). Washington State is on the left with a good view of the Table Mountain Landslide jutting into the Columbia River. Oregon is on the right. Bradford Island is crossed by the Bonneville Dam. Hamilton Island is in the foreground. Annotation includes Columbia River, Bonneville Dam, I-84, Table Mountain Landslide, Hamilton Island, and Bradford Island. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2003
  5. Aerial view, Columbia River and Bonneville Dam, looking west, annotated. (Click to enlarge). Oregon is on the left and Washington State is on the right. Includes annotation for the Columbia River, Bonneville Dam, I-84, Bradford Island, Hamilton Island, Ives Island, Pierce Island, and Beacon Rock. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2003

Bradford Island:
Lewis and Clark's Strawberry Island is now Hamilton Island. Assertations that Bradford Island is the Strawberry Island of Lewis and Clark are not substantiated by the maps of the explorers. It is apparent from both text and maps that Lewis and Clark used the name Brant Island for what is now known as Bradford Island. Their Strawberry Island is now Hamilton Island, close to the north bank. However, on the return journey, Patrick Gass used the name Strawberry Island in error for what was then Brant Island, now Bradford. This was on the evening of April 9, 1806. -- McArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Name


Between this island [Bradford Island] and the right shore we proceeded, leaving at the distance of a mile and a half, the village of four houses on our right, [today Bonneville Dam spans Bradford Island]


Along the Journey - November 1, 1805
Map, 1911 USGS topo map of the Bonneville area, click to enlarge Image, 1938, Bonneville Dam, click to enlarge Aerial view, Bonneville Dam, looking east, click to enlarge Image, Aerial view, Bonneville Dam, looking east, annotated, click to enlarge Aerial view, Bonneville Dam, looking west, click to enlarge Image, Aerial view, Bonneville Dam, looking west, annotated, click to enlarge Bonneville Dam:
  1. 1911 Map (section of original), from Mount Hood and Vicinity 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1907 and 1909-1911, contour interval of 100 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1938, View of the spillway of the Bonneville Dam on the Columbia River forty miles east of Portland in Multnomah County. The view is of the churning water below the dam. (Click to enlarge). Oregon State Archives, Oregon Department of Transportation #OHD0601. Photograph Date: ca. 1938. -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2002
  3. Aerial view, Columbia River and Bonneville Dam, looking east. (Click to enlarge). Washington State is on the left with a good view of the Table Mountain Landslide jutting into the Columbia River. Oregon is on the right. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2003
  4. Aerial view, Columbia River and Bonneville Dam, looking east, annotated. (Click to enlarge). Washington State is on the left with a good view of the Table Mountain Landslide jutting into the Columbia River. Oregon is on the right. Bradford Island is crossed by the Bonneville Dam. Hamilton Island is in the foreground. Annotation includes Columbia River, Bonneville Dam, I-84, Table Mountain Landslide, Hamilton Island, and Bradford Island. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2003
  5. Aerial view, Columbia River and Bonneville Dam, looking west. (Click to enlarge). Oregon is on the left and Washington State is on the right. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2003
  6. Aerial view, Columbia River and Bonneville Dam, looking west, annotated. (Click to enlarge). Oregon is on the left and Washington State is on the right. Includes annotation for the Columbia River, Bonneville Dam, I-84, Bradford Island, Hamilton Island, Ives Island, Pierce Island, and Beacon Rock. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2003

Bonneville Dam:
Bonneville Lock and Dam and Lake Bonneville are in the Columbia River Gorge, one of the most scenic areas in the Pacific Northwest. The walls of the gorge rise 2,000 feet above Lake Bonneville in many places and can be seen from any of the 10 recreation areas around the reservoir. Bonneville Dam spans the Columbia River from Oregon to Washington, a distance of 1,100 feet. Bradford Island, an old Indian burial ground separating the river's two channels, is at the center of the mammoth barrier. The south end of Bonneville Dam is on Bradford Island, as is much of the fish ladder structure. The north end of the powerhouse is also on the island. Bradford Island was named for Daniel F. and Putnam Bradford, brothers, who were pioneer steamboat operators on the Columbia River. Among other things they rebuilt the portage road at the Cascades in 1856. Later another portage road was built on the south side of the river, and eventually both were absorbed by the Oregon Steam Navigation Company. The dam was completed in 1938 and was the first of the major power dams on the Columbia. Bonneville was named for Captain Benjamin de Bonneville. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002, Oregon State Archives Website, 2002, and McArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names


and a mile and a half lower came to the head of a rapid near the village on the right. Here we halted for the night, [near the towns of Fort Rains and North Bonneville] having made only seven miles from the head of the shoot. During the whole of the passage the river is very much obstructed by rocks.


Along the Journey - November 1, 1805
Map, 1887, Cascade Locks vicinity, click to enlarge Map, 1911 USGS topo map of the Bonneville area, click to enlarge Map, 1814, Lower Falls of the Columbia, click to enlarge Image, ca.1915, Columbia River at Bonneville, click to enlarge Image, ca.1913, Columbia River, Bonneville vicinity, click to enlarge Bonneville Vicinity:
  1. 1887 Map (section of original), Columbia River and the Cascade Locks vicinity. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: The Columbia River from Celilo to the mouth showing locations of the salmon fisheries, 1887. Scale ca. 1:375,000, Relief shown by hachures. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Engineer Office, G.P.O. 1888. University of Washington Archives #UW128. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002
  2. 1911 Map (section of original), from Mount Hood and Vicinity 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1907 and 1909-1911, contour interval of 100 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  3. 1814 Map, Lower Falls of the Columbia, by Lewis and Clark. (Click to enlarge). This map is found in Travels to the source of the Missouri River and across the American continent to the Pacific Ocean : performed by order of the government of the United States, in the years 1804, 1805, and 1806, by Captains Lewis and Clarke. Published from the official report, 1814. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  4. ca.1915, Columbia River at Bonneville. (Click to enlarge). Oregon State Archives, Oregon Water Resources Department #OWR0102, Photograph Date: ca. 1915, -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2002
  5. 1913, Columbia River, Bonneville vicinity, below the cascades. (Click to enlarge). Photo by Albert Henry Barnes, ca.1913. University of Washington A.H. Barnes Collection #BAR021. -- University of Washington Library Archives, 2003

Bonneville Vicinity:
Lewis and Clark's map of the area they referred to as the "Lower Falls of the Columbia". Bradford Island was called Brant Island and Hamilton Island was Strawberry Island. In 1896 the Cascade Locks were built, and in 1938 Bonneville Dam was completed.


Fort Rains and North Bonneville:
In 1855 Fort Cascades was established in the Bonneville area on the north bank of the Columbia River, at the Lower Cascades (below the present site of the Bonneville Dam). A month later, Fort Rains was built to defend the Middle Cascades (above the present site of the Bonneville Dam), and 6 months later, after Fort Cascades was burned to the ground and rebuilt, a new fort was built to protect the Upper Cascades. This fort (Fort Lugenbeel) was located on the north bank of the Columbia, on a hill, across from Little Ashes Lake. Skamania County was formed in 1854 with the first county seat being located at the town of Cascades, also known as the Lower Cascades. Cascades was one of the four earliest settlements in the Washington Territory and included the fort. At one time Cascades was the largest town in the Washington Territory, and was an important steamboat stop and terminus for the portage railroad that transported goods and people around the Cascade rapids on the Columbia River. The settlement was approximately where North Bonneville is located today. In April 1893, the county government moved to the newly platted town of Stevenson, approximately 10 miles upstream. In 1894 the greatest recorded flood on the Columbia River destroyed the town of Cascades, leaving behind only a small community -- a community which sprang back to life as North Bonneville in 1933 when work began on the Bonneville Dam. North Bonneville was a spontaneously assembled community, built with whatever materials were available and put together to meet the needs of construction workers arriving by the hundreds in the area. When the Bonneville Project was completed in 1938, the town remained. It was incorporated in 1935. Construction of a second powerhouse at Bonneville Dam began in the mid-1970's, with the new powerhouse covering over 90 percent of the town of North Bonneville. The town was force to relocate west of the old town on Hamilton Island and south of Greenleaf Slough. The new town of North Bonneville was dedicated in 1978. Today North Bonneville can be reached via Washington State Highway 14. -- Skamania County Chamber of Commerce Website, 2003, and City of North Bonneville Website, 2003


The island [Bradford Island], which is about three miles long, reaches to the rapid which its lower extremity contributes to form. The meridian altitude of to-day gave us the latitude of 45o 44' 3" north. ......


Along the Journey - November 1, 1805
The Camp - November 1, 1805:
Washington side of the Columbia River, downstream of today's Bonneville Dam, near the towns of Fort Rains and North Bonneville. There is a plaque on Bradford Island commemorating this campsite.



 

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03/22/04, Lyn Topinka