The Volcanoes of Lewis and ClarkNovember 25 - December 6, 1805
|
|
Home
-- The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark Map of the Journey -- Volcanoes, Basalt Plateaus, Major Rivers, etc. CALENDAR of the Journey -- October 1805 to June 1806 Along the Journey -- Pacific Northwest Maps - Columbia River, Volcanoes, Flood Basalts, Missoula Floods, Geology, etc. The Corps of Discovery -- The Journey of Lewis and Clark About the Reference Materials -- The Journals, Biddle/Allen, DeVoto, Gass, Moulton, Topo Maps, and others USGS Lewis and Clark Links -- Links to USGS Websites highlighting the Lewis and Clark Journey Resources Publications Referenced and Websites Visited |
PREVIOUS
November 16-24 At the Pacific, Station Camp, Fort Canby, Long Beach |
November 25 - December 6, 1805 Looking for a Place to Winter Station Camp to Tongue Point Station Camp and Station Camp State Park, Point Ellice and the Astoria-Megler Bridge, Grays Bay, Pillar Rock, Mount St. Helens, Lewis and Clark NWR, Cathlamet Point/Aldrich Point, Cathlamet Bay, John Day River (Clatsop County), Tongue Point, Pebbles of Various Colors, Young's Bay, Smith Point and Astoria |
CONTINUE
December 7-25 A Place to Winter, Tongue Point to Fort Clatsop |
| On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes. |
| The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark |
| November 25 - December 6, 1805 |
|
Looking for a Place to Winter Station Camp to Tongue Point |
| the wind was too high to suffer us to cross the river, ----- [Lewis and Clark are camped at Station Camp, just west of Point Ellice, on the north side of the Columbia River The men decided to winter over on the south (Oregon) side of the Columbia] |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 15 through November 24, 1805:
"Station Camp", near today's McGowan, Washington, site of today's Lewis & Clark Campsite State Park. 
Station Camp:
Station Camp: "Station Camp" was near a Chinook fishing village. At the highest spot they could find, the Corps landed and, using boards from the village houses, created a campsite which they named "Station Camp." Early photographs of this area, now called McGowan, indicate that the shoreline was as much as several hundred feet south of the present location on US 101. The actual campsite was about 1.2 miles east of what is now Fort Columbia [see November 15 entry]. There is a current small roadside park just west of St. Mary's Church in the general area, but this is not the actual location of the campsite. -- Pacific County Friends of Lewis & Clark Website, 2002, Lewis and Clark Bicentennial in Oregon Website, 2002, and Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 Station Camp State Park: On February 20, 2002, the Washington State Senate passed its Capital Budget with a line item expense of $2.5 million for the moving of Highway 101 and creation of a six-acre park. The park will commemorate the Lewis and Clark Expedition's Station Camp -- one of the most significant historic sites in the Western United States -- and will be located along the Columbia River, near Chinook, on the Washington side of the Astoria Bridge, in Pacific County. In addition to this recommended capital expenditure by the Washington State Senate, the U.S. Congress is working to authorize the National Park Service to include Station Camp in the expansion of Fort Clatsop, thus making it a regional National Park. Last March, both the Washington State Senate and House passed resolutions to officially acknowledge that the western end of the Lewis and Clark expedition is located in Pacific County, Washington. The Senate Resolution goes on to recognize the western terminus of the trail as "one of the most important historic sites in the western United States." Station Camp marks the site of the final camp of the Corps of Discovery's westward exploration. On November 15, 1805, the Corps arrived at Station Camp and, with that move, brought to completion the remarkable achievement of the Expedition. Here they realized President Thomas Jefferson's directive of "finding those waters communicating with the Pacific Ocean". Present day Station Camp is a modest roadside park along side busy State Route 101. The expansion to a larger commemorative park requires relocation of a portion of the highway. A multi-agency planning and development process began in 1999, led by the Washington State Department of Transportation and the Washington State Historical Society. The Station Camp improvement has been the top priority of all Lewis and Clark projects in the State of Washington. The project's completion is targeted for 2005, in time for the area's Lewis and Clark Bicentennial Signature Event. -- Long Beach Peninsula Visitor's Bureau Website, 2002, Press Release of February 26, 2002 |
| but as it blew generally from the east southeast, the coast on the north was in some degree sheltered by the highlands. We therefore set out, and keeping near the shore, ----- [back around Point Ellice heading to Pillar Rock, a more favorable place to cross the river] |
|
|
Point Ellice:
Point Ellice: Point Ellice, on the Washington side of the Columbia River (11 miles inside it's entrance) is a large mountainous promontory projecting into the Columbia River. It is the termination of a spur from the mountain ridge back of Scarboro Hill. The point is rounding and rocky, but not high. Two high hillocks lie behind the point. Scarboro Hill is a long, gradually rising ridge, 820 feet high, covered with grass, fern, and some trees. During a seasonal storm that raged inward from the coast, the corps was forced to stay for a week on the east side of Point Ellice. Wind lacerated, waves lashed, and the roaring sea attacked them from every quarter. Gale-force winds threatened to thrust the party into the seething water. "Point Distress," "Stormy Point," and "Blustering Point" were names used to describe the site of the corps' plight during their attempt to reach the mouth of the Columbia. Point Ellice was named by fur traders of the North West Company to honor Edward Ellice, a London agent of the company. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003, and Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 
Astoria-Megler Bridge:
Astoria-Megler Bridge: In 1805 Lewis and Clark camped for 5 nights near Megler, Washington, before proceeding on towards the coast. To get to the Oregon side, they had to backtrack to Pillar Rock to cross the Columbia River. For the next 161 years folks either took a ferry (in 1840 the first ferry service began) or drove upriver to the nearest bridge. In 1962 the "Astoria-Megler Bridge" was begun and four years later, in 1966, the bridge was completed, becoming the largest continuous three-span through-truss bridge in the world. More than 30,000 people watched the dedication of the Astoria-Megler Bridge. The Oregon Governor, Mark Hatfield and the Washington Governor, Dan Evans cut the ceremonial ribbon to mark the opening. The toll which was created to pay off the debt for the bridge. It was thought that the bridge would never pay itself off, and that the toll would have to be enforced indefinitely. But on December 24th, 1993 the bonds were paid off and full two years early. The toll was removed. The bridge crosses the Columbia River linking Astoria, Oregon to Point Ellice and Megler, Washington, making U.S. 101 as an unbroken link between the Canadian and the Mexican borders. This photograph, taken from the Astoria side, shows the Washington shore of the Columbia River. -- Oregon Department of Transportation Website, 2002, Clatsop County Historical Society, and "StateofOregon.com" Website, 2002 |
| halted for dinner in the shallow bay [Grays Bay], |
|
|
Grays Bay:
Grays Bay: Grays Bay (on the Washington side of the Columbia River) extends from Grays Point to Harrington Point, north of the main shipping channel of the Columbia River. In the northeastern section of the bay are extensive mud flats. This bay was given a descriptive name, "Shallow Bay," by Lewis and Clark as they coasted the shore, striving to reach the Pacific Ocean. In 1792, Vancouver had named the bay to honor Robert Gray, a pointed reminder that the American had only explored the mouth of the river. The five months' difference between Gray's discovery and Vancouver's exploration resulted in contested territorial claims to the Pacific Northwest at the end of the 18th century and thereafter. Wilkes, in 1841, charted the bay as "Kutzule Bay," but the British name has been retained as the place name for the large, shallow bay on the north shore of the Columbia River. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003, and Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 |
| and after dark, reached a spot near a rock, at some distance in the river, and close to our former camp of the 7th inst. [Near Pillar Rock, Washington] ...... |
| "... a fine day ... we loaded and Set out up the river, and proceeded on to the Shallow Bay, landed to dine, The Swells too high to cross the river, agreeabley to our wish which is to examine if game Can be precured Sufficent for us to winter on that Side, after dinner which was on Drid pounded fish we proceeded on up the North Side to near the place of our Encampment of the 7th Instant and encamped after night ..." [Clark, November 25, 1805, first draft] |
| "... The Wind being high rendered it impossible for us to Cross the river from our Camp, we deturmind to proceed on up where it was narrow, we Set out early ... we Dined in the Shallow Bay on Dried pounded fish, after which we proceeded on near the North Side of the Columbia, and encamp a little after night near our Encampment of the 7th instant near a rock at Some distance in the river. ..." [Clark, November 25, 1805] |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 25, 1805:
Camped near Pillar Rock, Washington, near their camp of November 7, west of Jim Crow Point. 
Pillar Rock:
Pillar Rock: Pillar Rock is a 70-foot high basaltic column sitting in water approximately 50 feet deep near the northern shore of the Columbia River. Simply marked "Rock" on Clark's route map, the basalt rock rose 75 to 100 feet above water level, depending on the tide. The landmark was given its present place name by Wilkes in 1841. Currently there is a navigation beacon located on top of Pillar Rock. -- U.S. National Park Service, Jefferson National Expansion Memorial Website, 2002, Pacific County Friends of Lewis and Clark Website, 2002, and Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 |
| "... The evening cloudy wind of to day Generally from the E S. E, Saw from near of last Campment Mount Ranier [Mount St. Helens] bearing [blank] ..." [Clark, November 25, 1805, first draft] |
| "... evening Cloudy the Winds of to day is generally E. S. E which was a verry favourable point for us as the highlands kept it from us Mt St. Hilians Can be Seen from the mouth of this river ..." [Clark, November 25, 1805] |
|
|
Mount St. Helens:
|
| in the morning. it rained. We set out with the wind from east northeast, and a short distance above the rock [Pillar Rock], near our camp, began to cross the river. We passed between some low, marshy islands, which we called the Seal islands [today this area is the Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge], |
| "... Cloudy and Some rain this morning at daylight wind blew from the E N. E, we Set out and proceeded on up on the North Side of this great river to a rock in the river from thence we Crossed to the lower point of an [blank] Island passed between 2 Islands to the main Shore, and proceeded down the South Side, ..." [Clark, November 26, 1805, first draft] |
| "... Cloudy and Some rain this morning from 6 oClock. wind from the E. N. E, we Set out out early and crossed a Short distance above the rock out in the river, & between Some low marshey Islands to the South Side of the Columbia at a low bottom about 3 miles below Point 'Samuel' and proceeded near the South Side leaveing the Seal Islands to our right and a marshey bottom to the left ..." [Clark, November 26, 1805] |
|
|
Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge:
Lewis and Clark NWR: Lewis and Clark called this are the "Seal Islands" -- 35,000 acres of mudflats, tidal marshes, open water, and islands, Hundreds of plant and animal species; thousands of waterfowl in winter. Woody, Horseshoe, Karlson, and Marsh islands are the main islands in the wildlife refuge on Oregon's side of the Columbia. -- Lewis and Clark Bicentennial in Oregon Website, 2002, and Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 |
| and reached the south side of the Columbia at a bottom three miles below a point, to which we gave the name of point Samuel [Cathlamet Point - Aldrich Point]. |
|
|
|
Cathlamet Point - Aldrich Point:
Aldrich Point, in Clatsop County, was named for R.E. Aldrich, who at one time lived there and had a small mercantile establishment. In pioneer days it was known as Cathlamet Point for the Cathlamet Indians. -- McArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names |
| After going along the shore for five miles, we entered a channel two hundred yards in width, which separates from the main land a large, but low island [one of the marshy islands in the Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge]. On this channel, and at the foot of some highlands, is a village, where we landed [near today's town of Knappa, Oregon]. It consists of nine large wooden houses, inhabited by a tribe called Cathlamahs, who seem to differ neither in dress, language, nor manners, from the Chinnooks and Wahkiacums: like whom they live chiefly on fish and wappatoo roots. We found, however, as we hoped, some elk meat: after dining on some fresh fish and roots, which we purchased from them at an immoderate price, we coasted along a deep bend of the river towards the south [Lewis and Clark are entering Cathlamet Bay], |
| "... passed 2 Inlets & halted below the 2d at a Indian village of 9 large houses -- those Indians live on an emenence behind a Island or a Channel of the river not more than 300 yds wide ... ..." [Clark, November 26, 1805, first draft] |
| "... 5 Miles to the 'Calt-har-max' Village of 9 large wood houses on a handsom elevated Situation near the foot of a Spur of the high land behind a large low Island Seperated from the Southerly Shore by a Chanel of about 200 yards Wide ..." [Clark, November 26, 1805] |
|
|
Cathlamet Bay:
Cathlamet Bay: Cathlamet Bay is east of Tongue Point and south of the main ship channel of the Columbia River. There are many islands which are covered with tule in the summer, but in the winter they are almost indiscernible. The John Day Channel extends between Tongue Point and John Day Point. At the junction with the John Day River, just north of the point, the name changes to South Channel, which follows the shore closely to and around Settler point to Svensen. Many houseboats are moored along John Day River. The east part of Cathlamet Bay is used mostly for logging operations and log storage. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003 |
| and at night encamped under a high hill [west of today's town of Svensen, Oregon, along the South Channel of Cathlamet Bay]; all the way from the village the land is high, and has a thick growth of pine balsam, and other timber; but as it was still raining very hard, it was with difficulty we procured wood enough to make fires. Soon after we landed, three Indians from the Cathlawah village came down with wappatoo roots, some of which we purchased with fish-hooks. |
| "... We proceeded on about 8 miles and Encamped in a deep bend to the South ... we had rain all the day all wet and disagreeable a bad place to Camp all around this great bend is high land thickly timbered brushey & almost impossible to penetrate ..." [Clark, November 26, 1805, first draft] |
| "... after dining on the fresh fish which we purchased, we proceeded on through a Deep bend to the South and encamped under a high hill, where we found much difficuelty in precureing wood to burn, as it was raining hard, as it had been the greater part of the day ... from the Village quite around this bend to the West the land is high and thickly timbered with pine balsom &c.; ..." [Clark, November 26, 1805] |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 26, 1805
West of the town of Svensen, Oregon, along the southern bank of the South Channel of Cathlamet Bay. |
| At daylight the next morning ... We went on in the rain, which had continued through the night, and passing between a number of islands [following the shoreline of Cathlamet Bay] came to a small river, called by the Indians Kekemahke [John Day River, Clatsop County]. |
|
|
|
John Day River, Clatsop County, Oregon:
"Ke-ke mar que Creek" was an analogue the captains used for a word obtained from the local natives. They did not comprehend that Pacific Northwest Indians did not name geographical features such as rivers and creeks; instead, they identified sites on the drainages. This concept was also foreign to later cartographers. Their translations of native languages led to many misconceptions of actual Indian meanings and names. This western Oregon river, like the one in eastern Oregon, was named for John Day of Wilson Price Hunt's Astorian overland expedition, 1811-12. -- Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 |
| We afterwards came to a very remarkable knob of land [Tongue Point], projecting about a mile and a half towards Shallow bay [Grays Bay, on the Washington side of the Columbia], and about four miles round, while the neck of land which connects it to the main shore is not more than fifty yards wide. We went round this projection, which we named point William [Tongue Point]; |
|
|
Tongue Point:
Tongue Point: Tongue Point, at mile 16 on the Oregon side of the Columbia River, is a bold, rocky peninsula, 308 feet high, covered with trees and connected with the south bank by a low, narrow neck. It projects into the river for 0.8 mile. Tongue Point was so named in 1972, by Lieutenant William Robert Broughton. Captain George Vancouver, at the head of the sloop Discovery, was forced to abandon any attempts to sail up the Columbia River, leaving Lieut. Broughton and his smaller armed tender Chatham to explore the Columbia River. Broughton noted "a remarkable projecting point, that obtained the name of Tongue Point, on the southern shore, appearing like an island." Lewis and Clark tried to attach the name Point William, for William Clark, but it did not stick. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003, Oregon State Archives Website, 2002, and MacArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names |
| but the waves then became so high that we could not venture any farther, and we therefore landed on a beautiful shore of pebbles of various colours, |
|
|
|
Pebbles of Various Colors:
The colored pebbles were probably derived from the Pliocene-age Troutdale Formation which contains rounded quartz and chert gravels derived from sources upstream in the Columbia Plateaus and deposted in this area by the Columbia River. -- Moulton, 1990, v.6 |
| and encamped near an old Indian hut on the isthmus. [west side of the neck of Tongue Point] In drawing our canoes in shore, we had the misfortune to make a split two feet long in one of them. This isthmus opposed a formidable barrier to the sea, for we now found that the water below is salt, while that above is fresh and well tasted. It rained hard during the whole day; it continued all night, and in the morning, |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 27 through December 6, 1805
On the west side of Tongue Point, just east of present-day Astoria, Oregon. The majority of the party under Captain Clark remained here until December 7, 1805, while Captain Lewis and five men scouted for a suitable winter camp. |
| began more violently, attended with a high wind from the southwest. It was now impossible to proceed on so rough a sea. We therefore sent several men to hunt, and the rest of us remained during the day, in a situation the most cheerless and uncomfortable. On this little neck of land [the men are on the west side of Tongue Point] we are exposed with a miserable covering, which does not deserve the name of a shelter to the violence of the winds; all our bedding and stores, as well as our bodies are completely wet, our clothes rotting with constant exposure, and no food except the dried fish brought from the falls, to which we are again reduced. The hunters all returned hungry, and drenched with rain, having seen neither deer nor elk, and the swan and brant too shy to be approached. At noon the wind shifted to the northwest, and blew with such tremendous fury that many trees were blown down near us. This gale lasted with short intervals during the whole night; but towards morning, |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 27 through December 6, 1805
On the west side of Tongue Point, just east of present-day Astoria, Oregon. The majority of the party under Captain Clark remained here until December 7, 1805, while Captain Lewis and five men scouted for a suitable winter camp. |
| the wind lulled, though the rain continued, and the waves were still high. Captain Lewis took the Indian canoe, which is better calculated for rough weather, and with five men went down to a small bay below us [Youngs Bay], where we expect to find elk. Three other men set out at the same time to hunt in different directions, and the rest remained round the smoke of our fires drying leather, in order to make some new clothes. The night brought only a continuation of rain and hail, with short intervals of fair weather, till in the morning, |
| "... the wind being so high the party were unable to proceed with the perogues. I determined therefore to proceed down the river on it's E. side ['L' for Lardboard (south) ???] in surch of an eligible place for our winters residence and accordingly set out early this morning in the small canoe accompanyed by 5 men. drewyer R. Fields, Shannon, Colter & labiesh. proceeded along the coast. ... 5 m. to a point of land [Smith Point, tip of land where the city of Astoria is located] passing two points one at 3 m. bearing S 10 W. and the 2ed at 1 1/2 further a little retreating from the 1st land high and woods thick. 2 ml. along the point, land still high and thickly timbered here a deep bay commences runing [Youngs Bay] 2 m. along the bay. the land more open, pass a small prarie at 1 M. ..." [Lewis, November 28, 1805] |
|
|
|
Smith Point:
Smith Point (at Mile 11.3 on the Oregon side of the Columbia River) is the western termination of a high wooded ridge. It is the first prominent point on the southern bank southeast of Point Adams. The ridge culminates in Coxcomb Hill, 595 feet high, behind Astoria. The Astoria Column on the top of the hill is prominent. Clark used "Point Meriwether," after Lewis's first name, to identify this eastern point of Young's Bay. Smith Point has had many names, an indication of the long-disputed sovereignty over the Pacific Northwest. In 1792, after exploring the Columbia River, Broughton named the strategic site "Point George," honoring the king of England and emphasizing Great Britain's territorial claims. The first commercial settlement of Americans on the Pacific Coast was founded on the point by the Pacific Fur Company in 1811. Point Astoria, the western extremity of Astoria, was named for John Jacob Astor, one of America's richest businessmen and owner of the American Fur Company, parent company of the Pacific Fur Company. The settlement was not called a fort until the Americans surrendered it to the British in 1813, a result of the British-American War of 1812. The British rechristened the trading post, built Fort George, and used the "Point George" name again. The name Astoria was gradually restored after Americans reclaimed the settlement five years later, but the point's name changes continued. The Wilkes expedition charted the point as "Youngs Point." The present name is derived from early American settler Sammuel Smith, who took up a donation land claim on the point. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003, and Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002
Astoria:
Astoria: Astoria is a city of 10,000 people on the Columbia River, just a few miles from the Pacific Ocean. It is surrounded by the beauty of the forest, mountains, three rivers and the sea. Because of its steep hills and beautiful Victorian homes, Astoria has been Called the "Little San Francisco of the Pacific Northwest." The name Astoria is full of historic significance. It was near here in May 1792, Captain Robert Gray discovered the mouth of the Columbia River, and it was near here in 1805 and 1806 that Lewis and Clark passed the winter. In 1811, five years after the departure of Lewis and Clark, John Jacob Astor, a New York financier, sent fur traders aboard the ship Tonquin to establish a trading post. They built Fort Astoria on a site now preserved as a monument in the downtown area. The place was called Astoria until the fall of 1813, when it was taken over by the British, and rechristened Fort George, which it remained until the area was returned to the United States in 1818. The name Astoria was gradually restored with pioneer settlement. Astoria is situated on a peninsula between the Columbia River on the north and Youngs Bay on the south, with an extreme elevation of 595 feet. The high ridge inbetween is known as Coxcomb Hill. -- Astoria and Warrenton Chamber of Commerce Website, 2002, and McArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names Astoria Column: Known as the symbol of Astoria, the 125 foot Astoria Column on Coxcomb Hill, has 164 spiral stairs that you can climb for a grand view of the Columbia River, the volcanic cone of Mount St. Helens and the Pacific Ocean. It was built in 1926 by the Great Northern Railway, and is a favorite of kids. -- "astoria-usa.com" website, Astoria, Oregon |
|
|
Youngs Bay:
Youngs Bay: Youngs Bay is a shoal body of water just west of Smith Point. It receives the waters of Youngs River and Lewis and Clark River. Youngs Bay is crossed by U.S. Route 26/101 vertical-lift highway bridge, about 0.3 mile above the mouth. Lieutenant William Robert Broughton of Vancouver's expedition, discovered and explored Youngs Bay and Youngs River on October 22, 1792. He named Youngs River for Sir George Young of the royal navy. The bay took its name from the river. Lewis and Clark named the bay Meriwether Bay for Meriweather Lewis, just as they named Tongue Point, Point William for William Clark. Neither of these names was able to supplant the names attached to the features by Lieutenant Broughton. Youngs Bay is a part of the Columbia River estuary. Four major streams flow into Youngs Bay. The Lewis and Clark River drains the southern and western sides of Saddle Mountain [See November 7, 1805 entry for more on Saddle Mountain.] . It also drains the northern side of Humbug Mountain, Davis Point, and the surrounding foothills. Youngs River drains the north slopes of Saddle Mountain and the Green Mountain area. The Klatskanine and Walluski Rivers drain the south slopes of Wickiup Mountain, Elk Mountain, and extensive ridges of uplifted sediment. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2003, and McArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 27 through December 6, 1805
On the west side of Tongue Point, just east of present-day Astoria, Oregon. The majority of the party under Captain Clark remained here until December 7, 1805, while Captain Lewis and five men scouted for a suitable winter camp. |
| it cleared up about nine o'clock, and the sun shone for several hours. Other hunters were now sent out, and we passed the remainder of the day in drying our merchandise so long exposed. ...... The hills along the coast are high and steep, and the general covering is a growth of lofty pines of different species, some of which rise more than two hundred feet, and are ten or twelve feet in diameter near the root. Besides these trees we observe on the point a species of ash, the alder, the laurel, one species of the wild crab, and several kinds of underbrush, among which the rosebushes are conspicuous. |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 27 through December 6, 1805
On the west side of Tongue Point, just east of present-day Astoria, Oregon. The majority of the party under Captain Clark remained here until December 7, 1805, while Captain Lewis and five men scouted for a suitable winter camp. |
| Again we had a cloudy day, and the wind so high from the east, that having ventured in a boat with a view to hunt at some distance, we were obliged to return. We resumed our occupation of dressing leather and mending our old clothes, in which we passed the day. The hunters came in with a report of their having seen two herds of elk, but they could kill nothing, and we therefore again fed upon dried fish. At sunset it began to rain violently, and continued all night ...... |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 27 through December 6, 1805
On the west side of Tongue Point, just east of present-day Astoria, Oregon. The majority of the party under Captain Clark remained here until December 7, 1805, while Captain Lewis and five men scouted for a suitable winter camp. |
| This disagreeable food, pounded fish, has occasioned so much sickness among the men that it is now absolutely necessary to vary it. Three hunters therefore set out, and three more were sent up the Kekemahke creek [John Day River, Clatsop County, Oregon] in search of fish or birds. |
|
|
|
John Day River, Clatsop County, Oregon:
"Ke-ke mar que Creek" was an analogue the captains used for a word obtained from the local natives. They did not comprehend that Pacific Northwest Indians did not name geographical features such as rivers and creeks; instead, they identified sites on the drainages. This concept was also foreign to later cartographers. Their translations of native languages led to many misconceptions of actual Indian meanings and names. This western Oregon river, like the one in eastern Oregon, was named for John Day of Wilson Price Hunt's Astorian overland expedition, 1811-12. -- Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 |
| Towards evening one of them returned: he had observed great appearances of elk, and even seen two herds of them; but it rained so hard that he could with difficulty get a shot: he had, however, at last killed one, at the distance of six miles from the camp, and a canoe was now sent to bring it. The party from Kekemahke creek [John Day River, Clatsop County, Oregon] were less successful: they had seen no fish, and all the birds, in consequence probably of being much hunted by the Indians, were too shy to be approached. |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 27 through December 6, 1805
On the west side of Tongue Point, just east of present-day Astoria, Oregon. The majority of the party under Captain Clark remained here until December 7, 1805, while Captain Lewis and five men scouted for a suitable winter camp. |
| The wind was from the east, and the morning fair; but, as if a whole day of fine weather was not permitted, towards night it began to rain. Even this transient glimpse of sunshine revived the spirits of the party, who were still more pleased, when the elk killed yesterday was brought into camp. This was the first elk we had killed on the west side of the Rocky mountains, and condemned as we have been to the dried fish, forms a most nourishing food. After eating the marrow of the shank-bones, the squaw chopped them fine, and by boiling, extracted a pint of grease, superior to the tallow itself of the animal. A canoe of eight Indians, who were carrying down wappatoo roots to trade with the Clatsops, stopped at our camp: we bought a few roots for small fish-hooks, and they then left us: but accustomed as we are to the sight, we could not but view with admiration the wonderful dexterity with which they guide their canoes over the most boisterous seas; for though the waves were so high, that before they had gone half a mile the canoe was several times out of sight, they proceeded with the greatest calmness and security. Two of the hunters who set out yesterday had lost their way, and did not return till this evening: they had seen in their ramble great signs of elk, and had killed six elk, which they had butchered and left at a great distance. A party was sent in the morning, |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 27 through December 6, 1805
On the west side of Tongue Point, just east of present-day Astoria, Oregon. The majority of the party under Captain Clark remained here until December 7, 1805, while Captain Lewis and five men scouted for a suitable winter camp. |
| to carry the elk to a bay, some distance below, to which place, if the weather permitted, we would all remove our camp this evening; but the rain which had continued during the night lasted all next day, and was accompanied by so high a wind from the southeast and south, that we dared not risk our canoes on the water. It was high water at eleven o'clock, when the spring-tide rose two feet higher than the common flood-tides. We passed the day around our fires, and as we are so situated that the smoke will not immediately leave the camp, we are very much incommoded, and our eyes injured by it. No news has yet been received from captain Lewis, and we begin to have much uneasiness for his safety. |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 27 through December 6, 1805
On the west side of Tongue Point, just east of present-day Astoria, Oregon. The majority of the party under Captain Clark remained here until December 7, 1805, while Captain Lewis and five men scouted for a suitable winter camp. |
| It rained during the whole night, and this morning the rain and high wind compelled us to remain at our camp. Besides the inconvenience of being thus stopped on our route, we now found that all our stores and bedding are again wet with rain. The high water was at twelve o'clock, and rose two inches beyond that of yesterday. In the afternoon we were rejoiced at the return of captain Lewis, who came in a canoe with three of his men, the other two being left to guard six elk and five deer which they had killed: he had examined the coast, and found a river a short distance below [Lewis and Clark River, see entry of December 7, 1805], on which we might encamp during the winter, with a sufficiency of elk for our subsistence within reach. This information was very satisfactory, and we decided on going thither as soon as we could move from the point [Tongue Point]; but all night and the following day, |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 27 through December 6, 1805
On the west side of Tongue Point, just east of present-day Astoria, Oregon. The majority of the party under Captain Clark remained here until December 7, 1805, while Captain Lewis and five men scouted for a suitable winter camp. |
| it rained, and the wind blew hard from the southwest, so that the sea was still too rough for us to proceed. The high-tide of to-day rose thirteen inches higher than it did yesterday, and obliged us to move our camp to a high situation. Here we remained waiting for better weather, till about dark the wind shifted to the north, and the sky was clear. We had now some prospect of being able to leave our situation, and indeed although some rain fell in the course of the night, the next morning, |
|
|
|
The Camp - November 27 through December 6, 1805
On the west side of Tongue Point, just east of present-day Astoria, Oregon. The majority of the party under Captain Clark remained here until December 7, 1805, while Captain Lewis and five men scouted for a suitable winter camp. |
Return to:
[Volcanoes and History Menu] ...
[Living With Volcanoes Menu] ...
