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The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark

October 12, 1805

On the Snake River -
Almota Creek to Texas Rapids

 
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PREVIOUS

October 11
On the Snake, Clearwater Confluence to Almota Creek
October 12

On the Snake,
Almota Creek to Texas Rapids

Almota Creek, Penawawa Creek, Deadman's Creek and Central Ferry, Central Ferry State Park, Alakali Flat Creek, Little Goose Dam and Lake Bryan, Texas Rapids
CONTINUE

October 13
On the Snake, Texas Rapids to Ayer Junction
 

On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes.


Map, Lewis and Clark in the Pacific Northwest, click for brief
 summary
(Click map for brief summary about the area)



The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark
To the Pacific - October 1805
On the Snake River
Almota Creek to Texas Rapids

Monday, October 12, 1805

Lewis and Clark's camp of October 11, 1805, was located near the mouth of Almota Creek, approximately 4 miles downstream of the Lower Granite Dam.


Along the Journey - October 12, 1805
Map, 1893, Snake River and vicinity, click to enlarge Map, 1910 USGS topo map of the Snake River, Almota area, click to enlarge Engraving, 1883, Aerial view, Almota, on the Snake River, click to enlarge Almota Creek:
  1. 1893 Map, part of the Snake River showing location of principal rapids (section of original). Includes Central Ferry to Alpowa Creek. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Part of the Snake River from its mouth to the Grande Ronde, showing location of principal rapids". U.S. Engineers Office, 1893. Washington State University Historical Maps Collection #WSU586. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002
  2. 1910 Map (section of original), from Pullman 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1910, contour interval of 50 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  3. 1882 Engraving, Almota, on the Snake River, Washington Territory. (Click to enlarge). Etching by Frank T. Gilbert (A. Burr), 1882. Washington State University Archives Collection #WSU549. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002

Almota:
Almota, on the north side of the Snake River almost 40 miles above Clarkston (and approximately 4 miles downstream of today's Lower Granite Dam), was early on used by Nez Perce Indians as a fishing site. "Allamotin", "Almotine", and even "Alto Motin" have been given as Nez Perce names for the area, meaning "torchlight" or "moonlight fishing". Almota, soon became the trading/shipping center for all of Inland Empire, but lost some of its business when rail lines arrived in Colfax in 1883. The Oregon, Washington and Idaho Railroad and the Snake River Valley Railroad would not arrive in Almota until 1907. Today it is located near Lake Bryan, the reservoir formed from the construction of the Little Goose Dam. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002


In the morning it shifted to the east, and we had a fair cool morning. After purchasing all the provisions these Indians would spare, which amounted to only three dogs and a few fish, we proceeded. We soon reached a small island, and in the course of three miles passed three other islands nearly opposite to each other, and a bad rapid on the left in the neighbourhood of them. Within the following seven miles we passed a small rapid, and an island on the left, another stony island and a rapid on the right, just below which a brook comes in on the same side, [Penawawa Creek] and came to a bend towards the right opposite to a small island.


Along the Journey - October 12, 1805
Penawawa Creek:
Part of the Middle Snake River Watershed, Penawawa Creek is a small stream with steelhead use that has very little water in the summer and fall. . -- Washington State Department of Ecology Website, 2003


From this place we saw some Indians on the hills, but they were too far off for us to have any intercourse, and showed no disposition to approach us. After going on two miles to a bend towards the left, we found the plains, which till now had formed rugged cliffs over the river, leaving small and narrow bottoms, become much lower on both sides, and the river itself widens to the space of four hundred yards, and continues for the same width, the country rising by a gentle ascent towards the high plains. At two and a half miles is a small creek on the left [Deadman Creek/Meadow Creek],


Along the Journey - October 12, 1805
Map, 1893, Snake River and vicinity, click to enlarge Deadman Creek:
  1. 1893 Map, part of the Snake River showing location of principal rapids (section of original). Includes Central Ferry to Alpowa Creek. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Part of the Snake River from its mouth to the Grande Ronde, showing location of principal rapids". U.S. Engineers Office, 1893. Washington State University Historical Maps Collection #WSU586. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002

Deadman Creek:
Several small tributaries with perennial water flow that likely contain fish populations are included in the Lower Snake River Basin. They generally drain an arid landscape and they have similar climate and land use. Some of these streams drain the north side of the Snake River in Whitman County, Washington, (e.g. Alkali Flat Creek, Penawawa, Almota, Wawawai and Steptoe Canyon creeks) others drain from the south, primarily in Garfield County (Alpowa, Deadman and Meadow creeks). Little is known about most of these streams, but there is a recent effort by several agencies to sample fish populations and habitat conditions in them. -- Columbia Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2003


Deadman Creek Watershed:
Topography of the Deadman watershed is primarily long slopes intersected by steep canyons. Landforms are mainly flat to moderately sloping. Slopes are complex, being irregular, concave and convex in shape. Elevations range from 650 feet above sea level at the confluence of Deadman Creek with the Snake River to 2,800. -- Columbia Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2003


opposite to an island. [today opposite to Central Ferry State Park]
"... at 14 1/2 miles passed the mouth of a large Creek on the Lard Side opposit a Small Island here the Countrey assends with a gentle assent to the high plains, and the River is 400 yards wide ..." [Clark, October 12, 1805]


Along the Journey - October 12, 1805
Map, 1881, Snake, Clearwater, Grande Ronde, Salmon, click to enlarge Map, 1893, Snake River and vicinity, click to enlarge Image, Central Ferry Bridge, click to enlarge Central Ferry and Central Ferry State Park:
  1. 1881 Map, Snake, Clearwater, Grande Ronde, and Salmon Rivers (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Map of the Grande Ronde Wallowa and Imnaha Country, 1881". Map section shows the Snake River (name doesn't show), "Clear Water" River (central right, tributary to the Snake), Grande Ronde River (lower left, only "de River" shows, tributary to the Snake), Salmon River (lower right, tributary to the Snake) Lewiston, Central Ferry, Alpowai, Dayton, Pataha, and the Blue Mountains. By H. Chandler, Eng., Buffalo, 1881., Washington State University Historical Maps Collection #WSU468. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002
  2. 1893 Map, part of the Snake River showing location of principal rapids (section of original). Includes Central Ferry to Alpowa Creek. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Part of the Snake River from its mouth to the Grande Ronde, showing location of principal rapids". U.S. Engineers Office, 1893. Washington State University Historical Maps Collection #WSU586. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002
  3. Central Ferry Bridge over the Snake River. (Click to enlarge). Central Ferry Bridge over the Sanek River between Whitman and Garfield Counties. Image from the 1922-1924 Biennial Report. -- Washington State Department of Transportation Website, 2003

Central Ferry State Park:
Central Ferry State Park is a 185-acre camping park on 10,000-acre Lake Bryan, the backwater of the Snake River behind Little Goose Dam. The park is a popular destination for campers and visitors who enjoy boating, fishing and skiing during hot summer days and warm evenings. The park is named for a ferry that operated in the park's location on the Snake River, linking Whitman and Garfield counties. Today a bridge spans the river where the ferry once ran. Central Ferry State Park is in desert surroundings on a large, backwater lake. The temperature gets above 100 degrees in the summer, with evenings cooling to 80 degrees, and there is an average annual rainfall of eight inches. -- Washington State Parks and Recreation Website, 2002


Geology of Central Ferry State Park:
The park features evidence of basaltic lava flows, Pleistocene glaciation and prehistoric mammal habitation. -- Washington State Parks and Recreation Website, 2002


For the three following miles, the country is low and open on both sides, after which it gradually rises till we reached a bend of the river towards the right, three and a half miles further, in the course of which we passed a rapid and an island.


This vicinity now is the location of the U.S. Corps of Engineers "Little Goose" Dam.


Along the Journey - October 12, 1805
Aerial view, Little Goose Dam, click to enlarge Little Goose Dam:
  1. Aerial view, Little Goose Dam on the lower Snake River. (Click to enlarge). -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002

Little Goose Dam:
Today, the Lower Snake River has four dams and navigation locks along it: The uppermost dam is Lower Granite, followed downstream by Little Goose, Lower Monumental, and Ice Harbor. Little Goose Dam is located on the Snake River at River Mile 70.3. Construction began in June 1963, and the filling of Lake Bryan began on February 16, 1970, with the project was open to navigation in May 1970. Additional power units 4 through 6 were installed and power came online in July 1978. The Little Goose Dam features a fish viewing rooms that allows you an up close look at the many species of fish in the Lower Snake River. The dam is 2,655 feet long with an effective height of 98 feet. It is located at the head of Lake West, the reservoir formed by Lower Monumental Dam. The dam is the concrete gravity type, with an earthfill right abutment embankment. It includes a navigation lock with clear dimensions of 86 by 675 feet; and an eight-bay spillway that is 512 feet long and has eight 50-foot by 60-foot tainter gates. There is currently one fish ladder in operation at the dam. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002, and Columbia Basin Research Website, 2002


Lake Bryan:
Lake Bryan lies directly behind Little Goose Dam. It extends about 37.2 miles up the Snake River, until it reaches Lower Granite Dam. It lies at elevation 638 feet, and has a surface area of 10,025 acres. Congress, 2d Session, approved December 31, 1970, designated the lake behind Little Goose Dam as "Lake Bryan" in honor of the late Doctor Enoch A. Bryan. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Website, 2002


The wind now changed to the southwest,and became violent. We passed an island at the distance of four miles, another one mile beyond it, where the water was swift and shallow, and two miles further, a rapid at the upper point of a small stony island. We went along this island by the mouth of a brook on the right [Alkali Flat Creek],


Along the Journey - October 12, 1805
Alkali Flat Creek:
Alkali Flat Creek is part of the Middle Snake River Watershed, with flows very limiting to summer steelhead. -- Washington State Department of Ecology Website, 2003


and encamped on the same side opposite to a small island close under the left shore [near Riparia, Washington]. Our day's journey had been thirty miles, and we might have gone still further, but as the evening was coming on we halted at the head of a rapid, which the Indians represented as dangerous to pass [Texas Rapids], for the purpose of examining it before we set out in the morning.


Along the Journey - October 12, 1805
Map, 1893, Snake, Palouse, Tucannon Rivers, click to enlarge Map, 1893, Closer-in, Snake, Palouse, Tucannon Rivers, click to enlarge Map, 1922 Preliminary USGS topo map of Snake River and Texas Rapids area, click to enlarge Texas Rapids:
  1. 1893 Map, part of the Snake River showing location of principal rapids (section of original). Includes Snake, Tucannon, and Palouse Rivers. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Part of the Snake River from its mouth to the Grande Ronde, showing location of principal rapids". U.S. Engineers Office, 1893. Washington State University Historical Maps Collection #WSU586. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002
  2. 1893 Map, Closer-in, part of the Snake River showing location of principal rapids (section of original). Includes Snake, Tucannon, and Palouse Rivers. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Part of the Snake River from its mouth to the Grande Ronde, showing location of principal rapids". U.S. Engineers Office, 1893. Washington State University Historical Maps Collection #WSU586. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002
  3. 1922 Preliminary Map (section of original), from Riparia 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). "Advance sheet 80-N-II&IV;", Engineer Reproduction Print. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002


The country has much the same appearance as that we passed yesterday, consisting of open plains, which when they approach the water are faced with a dark-coloured rugged stone. The river is as usual much obstructed by islands and rapids, some of which are difficult to pass. Neither the plains nor the borders of the river possess any timber, except a few hackberry bushes and willows, and as there is not much driftwood, fuel is very scarce.
"... Country as yesterday open plains, no timber of any king ... The hills or assents from the water is faced with a dark ruged Stone ..." [Clark, October 12, 1805]


Along the Journey - October 12, 1805
The Camp - October 12, 1805
At the mouth of Alkali Flat Creek, near the town of Riparia, Washington, just west of Little Goose Dam. The campsite was at the head of Texas Rapids which is now below the backwater of Lower Monumental Dam.



 

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03/02/04, Lyn Topinka