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The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark

October 5 - 6, 1805

The Journey Begins -
Canoe Camp

 
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-- The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark

Map of the Journey
-- Volcanoes, Basalt Plateaus, Major Rivers, etc.

CALENDAR of the Journey
-- October 1805 to June 1806

Along the Journey
-- Pacific Northwest Maps - Columbia River, Volcanoes, Flood Basalts, Missoula Floods, Geology, etc.

The Corps of Discovery
-- The Journey of Lewis and Clark

About the Reference Materials
-- The Journals, Biddle/Allen, DeVoto, Gass, Moulton, Topo Maps, and others

USGS Lewis and Clark Links
-- Links to USGS Websites highlighting the Lewis and Clark Journey

Resources
Publications Referenced and Websites Visited

October 5-6

The Journey Begins,
Canoe Camp

Canoe Camp and Orofino (Idaho), Dworshak Dam, Clearwater River, Nez Perce National Historical Park
CONTINUE

October 7
On the Clearwater, Canoe Camp to Jacks Creek
 

On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes.


Map, Lewis and Clark in the Pacific Northwest, click for brief
 summary
(Click map for brief summary about the area)



The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark
To the Pacific - October 1805
The Journey Begins
Canoe Camp

Saturday, October 5, 1805

Between September 26 and October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark camped at the confluence of the North Fork Clearwater River with the main stem Clearwater River, approximately 4 miles west of today's Orofino, Idaho. At this site (called "Canoe Camp") the Lewis and Clark expedition, aided by the Nez Perce, built five canoes for their journey down the Columbia River. Today, Dworshak Dam, the tallest dam in Idaho, is located approximately one mile upstream on the North Fork Clearwater River. Canoe Camp is part of the Nez Perce National Historic Park.


Along the Journey - October 5, 1805
Map, 1855, Clearwater and Snake from Canoe Camp to the Columbia, click to enlarge Image, 1941, Looking down at Orofino, Idaho, click to enlarge Image, Clearwater River from Canoe Camp area, Idaho, click to enlarge Image, Clearwater River and Dugout Canoe, Idaho, click to enlarge Canoe Camp and Orofino, Idaho:
  1. 1855 Map, Clearwater and Snake Rivers, including Canoe Camp (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Map of Oregon and Washington Territories: showing the proposed Northern Railroad route to the Pacific Ocean, by John Disturnell, 1855. University of Washington Archives #UW155. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1941, Looking down at Orofino, Idaho. (Click to enlarge). Photograph Date: July 1941. Photographer: Russell Lee. Library of Congress, Farm Security Administration Office of War Information Photograph Collection #LC-USF347-070030-D. -- U.S. Library of Congress, American Memories Website, 2003
  3. Clearwater River from Canoe Camp area, Idaho. (Click to enlarge). Photograph by the Idaho Travel Council, #1795.25. Dworshak Dam is in the background. -- Idaho Department of Commerce Photo Archives, 2002
  4. Clearwater River and dugout canoe, from Canoe Camp area, Idaho. (Click to enlarge). Photograph by the Idaho Travel Council #r20115. -- Idaho Department of Commerce Photo Archives, 2002

Canoe Camp:
From September 26 to October 7, 1805, the Lewis and Clark camped at "Canoe Camp". Canoe Camp is approximately 4 miles west of Orofino, Idaho, along U.S. Highway 12, on the south bank of the Clearwater River, and opposite the mouth of the North Fork Clearwater River. At this site the Lewis and Clark expedition, aided by the Nez Perce, built five canoes in September 1805. Lewis and Clark had used packhorses in crossing the mountain trails from the upper Missouri; here they returned to river travel. They cached their saddles and gear and left their horses to be wintered with the friendly Nez Perce Indians. Today Canoe Camp is part of the Nez Perce National Historic Park. Interpretive sign. -- U.S. National Park Service Website, Nez Perce National Historical Park, 2002, and Moulton, 1996, v.10


Orofino, Idaho:
Except for missionaries, few white men were seen after Lewis and Clark until the winter of 1859 when Captain Elias D. Pierce found gold. Due to restrictions on what had become part of the Nez Perce Reservation, he could not legally come into the area. However, he returned quietly in the winter of 1860 with a party of 12. They camped on Canal Gulch near what is now the town of Pierce, where one of the men made a significant gold discovery. That winter, 1860-61, Pierce City and Oro Fino City were established only two miles apart. Oro Fino burned down in 1867 and was not rebuilt. Due to the inflow of settlers and the construction of the Northern Pacific Railroad up Clearwater River, today's Orofino townsite got its start in 1898. The name Oro Fino means "fine gold." and was taken from the old gold rush town called "Oro Fino". When the post office objected to two words, the town joined the two words and became Orofino. -- Orofino, Idaho, Chamber of Commerce Website, 2003, and Clearwater, Idaho, Historical Museum Website, 2003


Lewis and Clark in Orofio:
It is reported that the Lewis and Clark Expedition's Corps of Discovery (1805-1806) were the first white men and black man in Idaho. The expedition came into Clearwater County Sept. 20, 1805. They met the Nez Perce Indians on the Oyaip (Weippe) Prairie where the Nez Perce fed the starving men. Originally, the Nez Perce unsure of this expedition's intent, discussed killing all of them, but a Nez Perce woman named Wat-Ku-ese told them that white people had helped her when she had been captured by another tribe. She asked that the Corps be spared. The Corps of Discovery moved down to Canoe Camp on the Kooskooskee (Clearwater River) and camped. The Nez Perce showed the men of the Corps how to burn out the center of logs to make the canoe building faster. Five canoes were made and the expedition left Orofino on Oct. 10, 1805 on their way to the Pacific Ocean. On May 5, 1806, Lewis and Clark returned to Clearwater County where the Nez Perce welcomed them. The expedition came through near Orofino to collect the horses they had left with the Nez Perce the previous year. They also picked up supplies they had stored for the return trip. The Corps stayed at Long Camp near Kamiah until June 23, 1806, waiting for the snow to melt enough to allow passage through the mountains. During this time, the Corps and Nez Perce shared medicines, games, dancing and much more particular to the two cultures. Nez Perce guides helped Lewis and Clark get back over the mountains on their return to the eastern United States. -- Clearwater, Idaho, Historical Museum Website, 2003


Dworshak Dam:
Dworshak Dam is located on the North Fork Clearwater River approximately 5 miles north of Orofino, and approximately one mile north of the North Fork's confluence with the main stem Clearwater River and Lewis and Clark's Canoe Camp. Dworshak Dam is a 717-feet-high concrete dam, the tallest dam in Idaho. Dworshak was completed in 1971 and is used for flood control and power generation. The reservoir has a storage capacity of 2 million acre feet of water, largest in the state. -- Idaho Department of Water Resources Website, 2003


Nez Perce National Historical Park:
When Nez Perce National Historical Park was created in 1965, it consisted of 24 sites scattered across north central Idaho. Four of the sites were administered by the National Park Service and the remaining 20 were a mixture of other federal, local, and private sites. In 1992 an additional 14 sites were added in the adjoining states of Oregon, Washington, and Montana. Currently, agreements with the property owners are being worked out to provide for public access to each area. -- U.S. National Park Service Website, Nez Perce National Historical Park, 2002


The wind easterly, and the weather cool. The canoes being nearly finished it became necessary to dispose of our horses. They were therefore collected to the number of thirty-eight, and being branded and marked were delivered to three Indians, the two brothers and the son of a chief, who promises to accompany us down the river [Clearwater River]. To each of these men we gave a knife and some small articles, and they agreed to take good care of the horses till our return. ......
"... Wind Easterly and Cool, had all our horses 38 in number Collected and branded Cut off their fore top and delivered them to the 2 brothers and one Son of one of the Chiefs who intends to accompany us down the river ... they promised to be attentive to our horses until we Should return. -- Lattitude of this place from the mean of two observations is '46o 34' 56.3" North -- ..." [Clark, October 5, 1805]
"... The hills high and ruged and woods too dry to hunt the deer which is the only game in our neighbourhood ..." [Clark, October 5, 1805]


Along the Journey - October 5, 1805
Map, 1855, Clearwater and Snake from Canoe Camp to the Columbia, click to enlarge Map, 1881, Snake, Clearwater, Grande Ronde, Salmon, click to enlarge Map, 1893, Snake, Clearwater, Potlatch Rivers, click to enlarge Image, 1956, Clearwater River, Idaho, click to enlarge Clearwater River:
  1. 1855 Map, Clearwater and Snake Rivers, including the Clearwater River (Kooskoosky R.) (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Map of Oregon and Washington Territories: showing the proposed Northern Railroad route to the Pacific Ocean, by John Disturnell, 1855. University of Washington Archives #UW155. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1881 Map, Snake, Clearwater, Grande Ronde, and Salmon Rivers (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Map of the Grande Ronde Wallowa and Imnaha Country, 1881". Map section shows the Snake River (name doesn't show), "Clear Water" River (central right, tributary to the Snake), Grande Ronde River (lower left, only "de River" shows, tributary to the Snake), Salmon River (lower right, tributary to the Snake) Lewiston, Central Ferry, Alpowai, Dayton, Pataha, and the Blue Mountains. By H. Chandler, Eng., Buffalo, 1881., Washington State University Historical Maps Collection #WSU468. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002
  3. 1893 Map, Part of the Snake River showing location of principal rapids (section of original). Includes part of the Clearwater River and Potlatch River and others. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Part of the Snake River from its mouth to the Grande Ronde, showing location of principal rapids". U.S. Engineers Office, 1893. Washington State University Historical Maps Collection #WSU586. -- Washington State University Library Archives Website, 2002
  4. 1956, Clearwater River, Idaho. (Click to enlarge). U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Walla Walla District, Photo Archives #b404. Photo date: May 23, 1856. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Photo Archives, 2003

Clearwater River:
The Clearwater River drains approximately a 9,645 square mile area. The basin extends approximately 100 miles north to south and 120 miles east to west. There are four major tributaries that drain into the mainstem Clearwater River: the Lochsa, Selway, South Fork Clearwater, and North Fork Clearwater Rivers. The Clearwater River has an international reputation as one of the best steelhead fisheries anywhere. The river and U.S. Highway 12 are part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. Developed recreation sites are primarily for boating and fishing, with camping available in a few locations. The North Fork of the Clearwater and the Lochsa Rivers provide miles of tumbling whitewater interspersed with quiet pools for migratory and resident fish. The Clearwater was used as a passageway by explorers and trappers, and later by miners and loggers because it was much more tame than its counterpart the Salmon River. -- Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002, Visit Idaho Website, 2002, and Idaho Museum of Natural History Website, 2002, Digital Atlas of Idaho


Geology of the Lower Clearwater Basin:
Geology is an important factor for the Clearwater basin because it influences soils, topography, climate, and sedimentation. The high plateau on the western part of the Clearwater basin in (Lolo/Middle Fork and Lower Clearwater), is made up of Miocene-age (17.5 to 6 million years ago) Columbia River basalt lava flows that flooded the ancestral valleys leaving preexisting hilltops standing like islands (steptoes) in a sea of basalt. This plateau has moderately sloping terrain with local elevations ranging from 2,500 to 3,500 feet, and some isolated buttes reaching as high as 5,000 feet. The easternmost extension of the Palouse loess system deposited windblown silt-sized material called loess on the basalt planes, and along with volcanic ash from many Cascade eruptions, mantle the western part of the Clearwater basin, strongly influencing soil formation, erosion and sedimentation into streams and rivers. -- Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002


Sunday, October 6, 1805

This morning is again cool, and the wind easterly. ...... We had all our saddles buried in a cache near the river [Clearwater River], about half a mile below, and deposited at the same time a canister of powder, and a bag of balls. The time which could be spared from our labours on the canoes, was devoted to some astronomical observations. The latitude of our camp as deduced from the mean of two observations is 46o 34' 56"; 3"'; north.
"... The river below this forks is Called 'Kos-kos-kee'. it is Clear rapid with Shoals or Swift places -- The open Countrey Commences a fiew miles below This on each side of the river, on the Lard Side below the 1st Creek. with a few trees Scattered near the river. ..." [Clark, October 6, 1805]


Along the Journey - October 6, 1805
The Camp - September 26 to October 7, 1805:
From September 26 to October 7, 1805, the Lewis and Clark camped at "Canoe Camp". Canoe Camp is approximately 4 miles west of Orofino, Idaho, along U.S. Highway 12, on the south bank of the Clearwater River and opposite the mouth of the North Fork Clearwater River. At this site the Lewis and Clark expedition, aided by the Nez Perce, built five canoes in September 1805. [See October 5, 1805 entry]



 

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03/02/04, Lyn Topinka