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The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark

October 20, 1805

Islands and Rapids -
Umatilla NWR to Roosevelt and Arlington
 
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October 19
Down the "Great Columbia", Spring Gulch to Umatilla NWR 		October 20

Islands and Rapids
Umatilla NWR to Roosevelt and Arlington

Umatilla NWR and Irrigon (Oregon), Canoe Ridge, Crow Butte and Crow Butte State Park, Alder Creek and Willow Creek, Alder Ridge, Roosevelt and Arlington 		CONTINUE

October 21
Islands and Rapids, Roosevelt and Arlington to the John Day
 

On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes.


Map, Lewis and Clark in the Pacific Northwest
(Click map for brief summary about the area)



The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark
To the Pacific - October 1805
Islands and Rapids
Umatilla NWR to the John Day

Sunday, October 20, 1805

The Corps of Discovery's camp of October 19, 1805, was between Irrigon and Boardman, Oregon, an area which is today part of the Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge.


Along the Journey - October 20, 1805
NASA Image, 1985, Columbia River from Willow Creek to McNary Dam, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1985, Columbia River and the Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge, click to enlarge Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge:
  1. 1985, NASA Image, Columbia River from Willow Creek to McNary Dam (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Willow Creek, Alder Creek, Crow Butte, Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge vicinity, Umatilla River, McNary Dam, and Lake Umatilla, August, 1985. The Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). Washington State is the upper half of the image (north) and Oregon is the lower half (south). Lake Umatilla was formed by the John Day dam (not in image). NASA Earth from Space #STS51F-035-0011. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  2. 1985, NASA Image, Closer-in view Columbia River and the Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge vicinity (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Crow Butte, Lake Umatilla, and the Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge vicinity, August, 1985. The Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). Washington State is the upper half of the image (north) and Oregon is the lower half (south). Lake Umatilla was formed by the John Day dam (not in image). NASA Earth from Space #STS51F-035-0011. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002

Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge:
29,370 acres of marshes, sloughs, open water, cropland, and sagebrush uplands. Nesting area for Great Basin Canada geese and several species of ducks. 90,000 wintering Canada geese. 200,000 wintering ducks, practically all species of ducks found in the west except sea ducks. The largest number of ducks on the refuge at one time was 458,000 on November 13, 1983. Long-billed curlews and other marsh and water birds nest on the refuge. Mammals include mule deer, coyote, and many smaller species. Walleye, steelhead, salmon, sturgeon, crappie, and bass are found in refuge waters. Located along the Columbia River in the vicinity of Irrigon, Oregon, and Paterson, Washington. Several access routes. -- U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Website, 2002,


The morning was cool, the wind from the southwest. Our appearance had excited the curiosity of the neighbourhood so much, that before we set out about two hundred Indians had collected to see us, and as we were desirous of conciliating their friendship, we remained to smoke and confer with them till breakfast.
"... a clear frosty morning. we Set out eairly. proceeded on passed a pleasant part of the County level Smooth plains but no timber. the River Smooth [today this area is Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge] ..." [Ordway, October 20, 1805]
We passed three vacant houses near our camp, and at six miles reached the head of a rapid on descending which we soon came to another, very difficult and dangerous. It is formed by a chain of large black rocks, stretching from the right side of the river, and with several small islands on the left, nearly choaking the channel of the river. To this place we gave the name of the Pelican rapid, from seeing a number of pelicans and black cormorants about it. Just below it is a small island near the right shore, where are four houses of Indians, all busy in drying fish. [downstream of Patterson, Washington]
"... passed a rapid at Seven miles one at a Short distance below we passed a verry bad rapid, a chane of rocks makeing from the Stard. Side and nearly Chokeing the river up entirely with huge black rocks, an Island below close under the Stard. Side on which was 'four' Lodges of Indians drying fish --- here I Saw a great number of pelicons on the wing, and black Comerants. ..." [Clark, October 20, 1805]
At sixteen miles from our camp we reached a bend to the left opposite to a large island, and at one o'clock halted for dinner on the lower point of an island on the right side of the channel. Close to this was a larger island on the same side, and on the left bank of the river a small one, a little below. We landed near some Indian huts, and counted on this cluster of three islands, seventeen of their houses filled with inhabitants, resembling in every respect those higher up the river; like the inhabitants, they were busy in preparing fish. ......
"... at one oClock we landed on the lower point of an Island at Some Indian Lodges, a large Island on the Stard Side nearly opposit and a Small one a little below on the Lard Side on those three Island I counted 'Seventeen' Indian Lodges, those people are in every respect like those above, prepareing fish for theire winter consumption ... (On the upper part of this Island we discovered an Indian vault) ..." [Clark, October 20, 1805]
"... after diner we proceeded on to a bad rapid at the lower point of a Small Island ... examined and passed this rapid close to the Island ..." [Clark, October 20, 1805]
Half a mile beyond this, and at the distance of twenty-four from our camp, we came to the commencement of the highlands on the right [Canoe Ridge and Crow Butte area], which are the first we have seen on that side since near the Muscleshell rapids [Umatilla Rapids], leaving a valley forty miles in extent.
"... here the high countrey Commences again on the Stard. Side leaveing a vallie of 40 miles in width, from the mustle Shel rapid ..." [Clark, October 20, 1805]


Along the Journey - October 20, 1805
Map, 1858 Military recon map, Castle Rock and Canoe Encampment Rapids, click to enlarge Map, 1906 USGS topo map of Blalock Island, click to enlarge Map, 1906 USGS topo map of Canoe Ridge area, click to enlarge Map, 1906 USGS topo map of Crow Butte area, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1994, Columbia River from Crow Butte to the Snake River, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1985, Columbia River from Willow Creek to McNary Dam, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1985, Columbia River and the Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1985, Columbia River and Crow Butte area, click to enlarge Canoe Ridge and Crow Butte Vicinity:
  1. 1858 Military Recon Map (section of original), Blalock Island Vicinity (Long Island). (Click to enlarge). Map of military reconnaissance from Fort Dalles, Oregon, via Fort Wallah-Wallah, to Fort Taylor, Washington Territory, 1858. Shows approximate location of military road constructed 1859 to 1862. From the report and maps of Captain John Mullan, United States Army, G.P.O., 1863. University of Washington Archives #UW85. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002
  2. 1906 Map (section of original), from Blalock Island 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1906, contour interval of 50 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  3. 1906 Map Closer-View (section of original), from Blalock Island 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1906, contour interval of 50 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  4. 1906 Map (section of original), from Blalock Island 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1906, contour interval of 50 feet. Crow Butte became an island in the 1970's when the John Day Dam was built. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  5. 1994, NASA Image, Columbia River from Crow Butte to the Snake River (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Snake River, Yakima River, Walla Walla River, Umatilla River, Crow Butte and Wallula Gap, north-looking, low-oblique photograph, September 1994. NASA Earth from Space #STS064-112-093. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  6. 1985, NASA Image, Columbia River from Willow Creek to McNary Dam (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Willow Creek, Alder Creek, Crow Butte, Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge vicinity, Umatilla River, McNary Dam, and Lake Umatilla, August, 1985. The Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). Washington State is the upper half of the image (north) and Oregon is the lower half (south). Lake Umatilla was formed by the John Day dam (not in image). NASA Earth from Space #STS51F-035-0011. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  7. 1985, NASA Image, Closer-in view Columbia River and the Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge, including Blalock Island (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Crow Butte, Blalock Island, and the Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge vicinity, August, 1985. The Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). Washington State is the upper half of the image (north) and Oregon is the lower half (south). Lake Umatilla was formed by the John Day dam (not in image). NASA Earth from Space #STS51F-035-0011. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  8. 1985, NASA Image, Closer-in view Columbia River and the Crow Butte vicinity (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Crow Butte, Lake Umatilla, Alder Creek, and Willow Creek, August, 1985. The Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). Washington State is the upper half of the image (north) and Oregon is the lower half (south). Lake Umatilla was formed by the John Day dam (not in image). NASA Earth from Space #STS51F-035-0011. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002

Crow Butte:
Crow Butte is situated on the historic Lewis and Clark Trail. An island on the Columbia River accessible by vehicle or boat, the park features a beach, a long freshwater shoreline and a partially protected bay. A mile-long path leads to the top of the butte, from which Oregon, Mount Hood, Mount Adams and the Columbia River valley can be seen. Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge is adjacent to the park, attracting hundreds of thousands of migratory waterfowl each winter. Prior to being an island, Crow Butte was a hill. In the 1970's, when John Day Dam was built and flooded the Columbia River, waters formed around Crow Butte, turning it into the island it is today. -- MacArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names, and Washington State Parks and Recreation Website, 2002


Crow Butte State Park:
Crow Butte State Park is a 1,312-acre camping park with 33,910 feet of freshwater shoreline (750 feet of unguarded beach) on the Columbia River, 13 miles west of Paterson, Washington. -- Washington State Parks and Recreation Website, 2002


Having dined we proceeded past a small island, where were four huts of Indians, and at the lower extremity a bad rapid. Eight miles lower we passed a large island in the middle of the riverm below which are eleven small islands, five on the right, the same number on the left and one in the middle of the stream. A brook falls in on the right side [Alder Creek, Washingon],


Along the Journey - October 20, 1805
Map, 1906 USGS topo map of Alder Creek and Alder Ridge area, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1985, Columbia River from Willow Creek to McNary Dam, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1985, Columbia River and Crow Butte area, click to enlarge Alder Creek:
  1. 1906 Map (section of original), from Blalock Island 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1906, contour interval of 50 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1985, NASA Image, Columbia River from Willow Creek to McNary Dam (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Willow Creek, Alder Creek, Crow Butte, Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge vicinity, Umatilla River, McNary Dam, and Lake Umatilla, August, 1985. The Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). Washington State is the upper half of the image (north) and Oregon is the lower half (south). Lake Umatilla was formed by the John Day dam (not in image). NASA Earth from Space #STS51F-035-0011. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  3. 1985, NASA Image, Columbia River and the Crow Butte vicinity (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Crow Butte, Lake Umatilla, Alder Creek, and Willow Creek, August, 1985. The Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). Washington State is the upper half of the image (north) and Oregon is the lower half (south). Lake Umatilla was formed by the John Day dam (not in image). NASA Earth from Space #STS51F-035-0011. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002


and a small rivulet empties itself behind one of the islands [Willow Creek, Oregon].
"... at 8 miles lower passed a large Island near the middle of the river a brook on the Stard. Side and 11 Islds. all in view of each other below, a riverlit falls in on the Lard. Side behind a Small Island a Small rapid below. ..." [Clark, October 20, 1805]


Along the Journey - October 20, 1805
Map, 1855, Columbia River, Walla Walla to Vancouver, click to enlarge Map, 1858 Military recon map, Columbia River and mouth of Willow Creek, click to enlarge Map, 1916, USGS topo map section, Columbia River with Willow Creek, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1985, Columbia River from Willow Creek to McNary Dam, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1985, Columbia River and Crow Butte area, click to enlarge Willow Creek:
  1. 1855 Map, Columbia River, including Willow Creek (Quesnells R.) (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Map of Oregon and Washington Territories: showing the proposed Northern Railroad route to the Pacific Ocean, by John Disturnell, 1855. University of Washington Archives #UW155. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1858 Military Recon Map (section of original), Willow Creek. (Click to enlarge). Map of military reconnaissance from Fort Dalles, Oregon, via Fort Wallah-Wallah, to Fort Taylor, Washington Territory, 1858. Shows approximate location of military road constructed 1859 to 1862. From the report and maps of Captain John Mullan, United States Army, G.P.O., 1863. University of Washington Archives #UW85. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002
  3. 1916 Map (section of original), from Arlington 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1912-1913, contour interval of 50 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  4. 1985, NASA Image, Columbia River from Willow Creek to McNary Dam (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Willow Creek, Alder Creek, Crow Butte, Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge vicinity, Umatilla River, McNary Dam, and Lake Umatilla, August, 1985. The Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). Washington State is the upper half of the image (north) and Oregon is the lower half (south). Lake Umatilla was formed by the John Day dam (not in image). NASA Earth from Space #STS51F-035-0011. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  5. 1985, NASA Image, Columbia River and the Crow Butte vicinity (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Crow Butte, Lake Umatilla, Alder Creek, and Willow Creek, August, 1985. The Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). Washington State is the upper half of the image (north) and Oregon is the lower half (south). Lake Umatilla was formed by the John Day dam (not in image). NASA Earth from Space #STS51F-035-0011. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002

Willow Creek:
To the west of the Umatilla basin is Willow Creek, a 79-mile long river that drains into the Columbia River at RM 253. Willow Creek and its tributaries drain an area of about 880 square miles, ranging in elevation from 269 feet at its confluence with the Columbia River, to 5,583 feet at its headwaters near Bald Mountain in the Umatilla National Forest. Lewis and Clark mention this stream as a "riverlit" in their journals for Sunday, October 20, 1805. On the sketch map by Clark, in Thwaites' Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, volume IV, page 308, it is shown as 'Choch'. It has been known as Willow Creek since pioneer days. -- Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002, and McArthur, 1982, Oregon Geographic Names


The country on the right consists of high and rugged hills; [Alder Ridge], the left is a low plain with no timber on either side, except a few small willow-brushes along the banks; though a few miles after leaving these islands the country on the left rises to the same height with that opposite to it, and becomes an undulating plain.
"... The Star Side is high rugid hills, the Lard. Side a low plain and not a tree to be Seen in any Direction except a fiew Small willow bushes which are Scattered partially on the Sides of the bank ..." [Clark, October 20, 1805]


Along the Journey - October 20, 1805
Map, 1906 USGS topo map of Alder Creek and Alder Ridge area, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1985, Columbia River from Willow Creek to McNary Dam, click to enlarge NASA Image, 1985, Columbia River and Crow Butte area, click to enlarge Alder Ridge:
  1. 1906 Map (section of original), from Blalock Island 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1906, contour interval of 50 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1985, NASA Image, Columbia River from Willow Creek to McNary Dam (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Willow Creek, Alder Creek, Crow Butte, Umatilla National Wildlife Refuge vicinity, Umatilla River, McNary Dam, and Lake Umatilla, August, 1985. The Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). Washington State is the upper half of the image (north) and Oregon is the lower half (south). Lake Umatilla was formed by the John Day dam (not in image). NASA Earth from Space #STS51F-035-0011. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002
  3. 1985, NASA Image, Columbia River and the Crow Butte vicinity (section of original) (Click to enlarge). View from space - Columbia River, Crow Butte, Lake Umatilla, Alder Creek, and Willow Creek, August, 1985. The Columbia River flows right (east) to left (west). Washington State is the upper half of the image (north) and Oregon is the lower half (south). Lake Umatilla was formed by the John Day dam (not in image). NASA Earth from Space #STS51F-035-0011. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002


Two miles after passing a small rapid we reached a point of highland in a bend towards the right, and encamped for the evening [near today's Roosevelt, Washington, across from Arlington, Oregon], after a journey of forty-two miles.


Along the Journey - October 20, 1805
Map, 1916, USGS topo map section, Columbia River with Arlington, Oregon and Roosevelt, Washington, click to enlarge Image, 1970, overlooking Arlington, Oregon, the Columbia River, and Roosevelt, Washington, click to enlarge Roosevelt, Washington:
  1. 1916 Map (section of original), from Arlington 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1912-1913, contour interval of 50 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1970, Overlooking Arlington, Oregon, the Columbia River, and Roosevelt, Washington. (Click to enlarge). This photo shows part of the small town of Arlington, located on U.S. Route I-84, on the Columbia River, 54 miles east of The Dalles. Arlington, at the junction of the John Day Highway and I-84 was relocated a short distance up the canyon as a result of the construction of The Dalles Dam and the newly created reservoir behind the dam. This picture, taken from an overlook of Arlington, shows the I-84 highway bridge, the new boat basin, a large grain elevator, the Columbia River, and the hills along the Washington State shore (location of Roosevelt, Washington) and another large grain elevator. Photograph Date: June 1970. Oregon State Archives Oregon Highway Division #OHD7441. -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2003

Map, 1916, USGS topo map section, Columbia River with Arlington, Oregon and Roosevelt, Washington, click to enlarge Engraving, 1889, Arlington, Oregon, click to enlarge Image, 1939, Arlington, Oregon, click to enlarge Image, 1970, overlooking Arlington, Oregon, the Columbia River, and Roosevelt, Washington, click to enlarge Arlington, Oregon:
  1. 1916 Map (section of original), from Arlington 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1912-1913, contour interval of 50 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002
  2. 1889 Engraving, Arlington, Oregon. (Click to enlarge). -- U.S. Library of Congress Website, 2002, American Memories
  3. 1939 Arlington, Oregon. (Click to enlarge). The town of Arlington, Oregon, on the Columbia River, 112 miles from Bonneville Dam. Photographer: Dorothea Lange. Photograph Date: October 1939. Library of Congress Archives #LC-USF34- 021071-C. -- U.S. Library of Congress Website, 2003, American Memories
  4. 1970, Overlooking Arlington, Oregon, the Columbia River, and Roosevelt, Washington. (Click to enlarge). This photo shows part of the small town of Arlington, located on U.S. Route I-84, on the Columbia River, 54 miles east of The Dalles. Arlington, at the junction of the John Day Highway and I-84 was relocated a short distance up the canyon as a result of the construction of The Dalles Dam and the newly created reservoir behind the dam. This picture, taken from an overlook of the town, shows the highway bridge, the new boat basin, a large grain elevator, the Columbia River, and the hills along the Washington State shore (location of Roosevelt, Washington), and another large grain elevator. Photograph Date: June 1970. Oregon State Archives Oregon Highway Division #OHD7441. -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2003

Arlington, Oregon:
Arlington was first settled in 1880, after the area was used through much of the previous decade as a meeting point where cattlemen would gather their cattle for sale. Originally named Alkali (after the Alkali Canyon, which it was located at the mouth of), the name was changed to Arlington in 1885 when the town was incorporated. The origin of the name Arlington is uncertain - it is presumed to be either after a prominent resident, Nathan Arlington Cornish, or after Arlington, VA in honor of that town's prominent resident of the day, southern General Robert E. Lee. The entire town of Arlington was relocated just uphill between 1953 and 1973, when the building of the John Day Dam drowned (on January 2nd, 1968) old Arlington for good. -- Washington State University Library Collections Website, 2002


The river has been about a quarter of a mile in width, with a current much more uniform than it was during the last two days. We killed two speckled gulls, and several ducks of a delicious flavour.
"... The river to day is about 1/4 of a mile in width; this evening the Countrey on the Lard. Side rises to the hight of that on the Starboard Side, and is wavering -- we made 42 miles to day; the current much more uniform than yesterday or the day before ..." [Clark, October 20, 1805]
"... went 42 miles, and encamped without any of the natives being along, which is unusual on this river. We could not get one single stick of wood to cook with; and had only a few small green willows. ..." [Gass, October 20, 1805]
"... we came 46 miles this day. and Camped on the Starbord Side no wood except a fiew Small willows ..." [Ordway, October 20, 1805]


Along the Journey - October 20, 1805
The Camp - October 20, 1805:
Washington side of the Columbia River, near today's town of Roosevelt, across from today's town of Arlington, Oregon.



 

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03/22/04, Lyn Topinka