The Volcanoes of Lewis and ClarkOctober 29, 1805
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-- The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark Map of the Journey -- Volcanoes, Basalt Plateaus, Major Rivers, etc. CALENDAR of the Journey -- October 1805 to June 1806 Along the Journey -- Pacific Northwest Maps - Columbia River, Volcanoes, Flood Basalts, Missoula Floods, Geology, etc. The Corps of Discovery -- The Journey of Lewis and Clark About the Reference Materials -- The Journals, Biddle/Allen, DeVoto, Gass, Moulton, Topo Maps, and others USGS Lewis and Clark Links -- Links to USGS Websites highlighting the Lewis and Clark Journey Resources Publications Referenced and Websites Visited |
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October 25-28 The Dalles, "Long Narrows" |
October 29
Entering the Columbia River Gorge, The Dalles to the Little White Salmon Crates Point, Basalts of Rowena Gap, Doug's Beach State Park, Mayer State Park, Klickitat River, Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, Memaloose Island, Hood River, Mount Hood, White Salmon River, Mount Adams, Underwood Mountain, Mitchell Point, Little White Salmon River |
CONTINUE
October 30 "Lower Falls of the Columbia", Dog Mountain to Cascade Locks |
On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes. |
The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark |
To the Pacific - October 1805 |
Entering the Columbia River Gorge
The Dalles to the Little White Salmon |
Lewis and Clark's camp of October 28, 1805, was on the Oregon side of the Columbia River, near Crate's Point and Rocky Island. |
The morning was still cloudy, and the wind from the west, but as it had abated its violence, we set out at daylight. At the distance of four miles we passed a creek on the right [??? --- Note: this Biddle/Allen publication has the creek on the right. Thwaites and Moulton versions have the creek on the left.], one mile below which is a village of seven houses on the same side. This is the residence of the principal chief of the Chilluckittequaw nation, whom we now found to be the same between whom and our two chiefs we had made a peace at the Echeloot village. ...... |
"... A cloudy morning wind from the West but not hard, we Set out at day light, and proceeded on about 'five' miles Came too on the Stard. Side at a village of 7 houses ... we call this the friendly village. ..." [Clark, October 29, 1805] |
The hills as we passed are high with steep and rocky sides, [basalts of Rowena Gap area] and some pine and white oak, and an undergrowth of shrubs scattered over them. |
"... We embarked early in a cloudy morning; passed high hills on both sides of the river, on which there was pine timber; and some birch on the banks of the river. At breakfast time we stopt at a small village of the natives and purchased some more dogs: then proceeded on; passed a number more Indian camps, and a high mountainous country on both sides. ..." [Gass, October 29, 1805] |
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Rowena Gap and Vicinity:
Doug's Beach State Park is situated underneath basalt cliffs carved by the flood waters of the last ice age. The basalt emerged as immense lava flows from massive cracks in the earth's crust. These flows covered all of eastern Washington and Oregon long before the floods. An observer can identify the various flows by the distinct stratigraphy along the cliff walls. Some flows appear to have been hundreds of feet thick in some areas. In Captain Clark's mileage notes compiled at Fort Clatsop, he used the name "Pilgrim rocks" for this area. Today's maps show "Rowena Gap". The river bluffs, with six separate basalt lava flows, stand bare of soil to about the 1,000-foot level. The spectacular bluffs on the northern shore of the Columbia are situated in Klickitat County, Washington, east of Lyle. -- Washington State Parks Website, 2002, and Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002 Doug's Beach State Park, Washington: Doug's Beach State Park is a 400-acre, undeveloped day-use park on the Columbia River. This is one of the premier windsurfing sites in the Columbia Gorge and is rated for advanced sailors. Parking is along the south side of SR 14. There is a pedestrian walkway behind the vehicle-parking area, fenced from passing trains. Visitors access the beach down a paved path with railroad-crossing arms and signals. In 1805, Lewis and Clark stopped for supplies at an Indian village in the vicinity of today's park. The park acquired its name from a windsurfer who used to frequent the beach when the sport was in its infancy. -- Washington State Parks Website, 2002 Mayer State Park, Oregon If you need an open invitation to go explore a peaceful tree-lined lake in the summertime, consider yourself invited. Go see lower Mayer State Park from the top of Rowena Crest and soak in a view of the most beautiful lake around. Both are actually within Mayer State Park, but few people know that. From the top of Rowena, Mayer can be full appreciated for its many amenities, including swimming, boating, fishing and picnicking. |
Four miles below this village is a small river on the right side [Klickitat River]; immediately below is a village of Chilluckittequaws, consisting of eleven houses. [location of today's Lyle, Washingon] |
Here we landed and smoked a pipe with the inhabitants, who were very cheerful and friendly. They as well as the people of the last village inform us, that this river [Klickitat River] comes a considerable distance from the N.N.E. that it has a great number of falls, which prevent the salmon from passing up, and that there are ten nations residing on it who subsist on berries, or such game as they can procure with their bows and arrows. At its mouth the river is sixty yards wide, and has a deep and very rapid channel. From the number of falls of which the Indians spoke, we gave it the name of Cataract river [Klickitat River]. We purchased four dogs, and then proceeded. |
"... after brackfast we proceeded on, the mountains are high on each Side, containing Scattering pine white oake & under groth, hill Sides Steep and rockey; at 4 miles lower we observed a Small river falling in with great rapidity on the Stard. Side below which is a village of 11 houses, here we landed to Smoke a pipe with the nativs and examine the mouth of the river, which I found to be 60 yards wide rapid and deep, The inhabitants of the village are friendly and Chearfull; those people inform us also those at last village that this little river is long and full of falls, no Salmon pass up it, it runs from N. N. E. that 'ten' nations live on this river and its waters ... we purchased 4 dogs and Set out -- ..." [Clark, October 29, 1805] |
The country as we advance is more rocky and broken, and the pine and low whiteoak on the hills increase in great quantity. |
"... The Countrey on each side begin to be thicker timbered with Pine and low white Oake; verry rockey and broken ..." [Clark, October 29, 1805] |
Three miles below Cataract river [Klickitat River] we passed three large rocks in the river; that in the middle is large and longer than the rest, and from the circumstance of its having several square vaults on it, obtained the name of Sepulchre island [Memaloose Island]. |
"... passed three large rocks in The river the middle rock is large long and has Several Squar vaults on it. we call this rockey Island the Sepulchar -- The last river we passed we Shall Call the 'Cataract' River from the number of falls which the Indians say is on it ..." [Clark, October 29, 1805] |
"... a cloudy morning. we Set out eairly, and proceeded on about 6 miles and halted at Some Indian lodges where we bought a number more dogs and proceeded on the current gentle passed a great number of Indian villages on the Stard Side, passed a creek on the Stard. Side [Klickitat River] and one on the Lard. Side. [Hood River] ..." [Ordway, October 29, 1805] |
A short distance below are two huts of Indians on the right: the river now widens, and in three miles we came to two more houses on the right; one mile beyond which is a rocky island [possibly Eighteenmile Island] in a bend of the river towards the left. Within the next six miles we passed fourteen huts of Indians, scattered on the right bank, [passing thru the basalts of the Bingen Gap] |
Since 1924, the Hood River-Bingen toll bridge spans the Columbia River, connecting Bingen and White Salmon, Washington, with Hood River, Oregon. The bridge is located just upstream of Hood River, at the western end of the Bingen Gap. |
and then reached the entrance of a river on the left, which we called Labieshe's river [Hood River], after Labieshe one of our party. Just above this river is a low ground more thickly timbered than usual, and in front are four huts of Indians on the bank, which are the first we have seen on that side of the Columbia. The exception may be occasioned by this spot's being more than usually protected from the approach of their enemies, by the creek, and the thick wood behind. |
"... 4 Houses in a point of a timbered bottom on the Lard. Side at a large creek or River 40 yr. [Hood River] passed a bottom on the Stard Side the distance in which there is 14 Indian houses -- The falls mountain covered with Snow is South. S.70o W. 6 miles to a high Clift of rocks Std bend passed a large creek at 1 mile on the Stard. Side in which the Indians catch fish, [White Salmon River] a large Sand bar from the Lard. Side for 4 miles, at which place a small stream of water falls over a rock of 100 feet on the Lard Side passed 4 Indian Houses at 5 miles in a bottom on the Lard Side ..." [Clark, October 29, 1805, first draft] |
"... passed 2 Lodges of Indians a Short distance below the Sepulchar Island on the Stard. Side river wide, at 4 mile passed 2 houses on the Stard. Side, Six miles lower passed 4 houses above the mouth of a Small river 40 yards wide on the Lard. Side a thick timbered bottom above & back of those houses; those are the first houses which we have Seen on the South Side of the Columbia River, ... from the mouth of this little river which we shall Call Labeasche River [Hood River] , the 'falls mountain' is South [Mount Hood] and the top is covered with Snow , one mile below pass the mouth of a large rapid Stream on the Stard. Side, opposit ot a large Sand bar, in this creek the Indians above take their fish, here we Saw Several canoes, which induced us to call this Canoe Creek [White Salmon River] it is 28 yards wide, about 4 miles lower and below the Sand bar is a butifull cascade falling over a rock of about 100 feet ..." [Clark, October 29, 1805] |
"... In the evening we discovered a hight mountain to the south, not more than five miles off, covered with snow. We have here still water; and the breadth of the river is from three quarters to a mile. ..." [Gass, October 29, 1805] |
"... Saw Snow on a mountain on the Lard Side. ..." [Ordway, October 29, 1805] |
We again embarked, and at the distance of a mile passed the mouth of a rapid creek on the right [White Salmon River] eighteen yards wide: in this creek the Indians whom we left take their fish, and from the number of canoes which were in it, we called it Canoe creek [White Salmon River]. |
"... one mile below pass the mouth of a large rapid Stream on the Stard. Side, opposit to a large Sand bar, in this creek the Indians above take their fish, here we Saw Several canoes, which induced us to call this Canoe Creek it is 28 yards wide ..." [Clark, October 29, 1805] |
While Lewis and Clark did not make mentioned of it, Mount Adams is visible along this section of the Columbia River. |
Just downstream of the White Salmon River is the Pleistocene volcano, Underwood Mountain. |
Opposite to this creek [White Salmon River] is a large sandbar, which continues for four miles along the left side of the river. Just below this a beautiful cascade falls in on the left over a precipice of rock one hundred feet in height [???, upstream of Mitchell Point]. |
"... about 4 miles lower and below the Sand bar is a butifull cascade falling over a rock of about 100 feet ..." [Clark, October 29, 1805] |
"... Saw a beautiful Spring on the Lard. Side, which run off a high clift of rocks, and fell of the clift upwards of a hundred feet perpinticular. the country Mountaineous, high clifts on the River, mostly covred with pine timber. Some cotten wood on the narrow bottoms. Some willow also we bought several more dogs at one of the villages. ..." [Ordway, October 29, 1805] |
One mile further are four Indian huts in the low ground on the left: and two miles beyond this a point of land on the right, where the mountains become high on both sides, and possess more timber and greater varieties of it than hitherto, and those on the left are covered with snow. One mile from this point we halted for the night at three Indian huts on the right [near the mouth of the Little White Salmon River] having made thirty-two miles. ...... |
"... Short distance lower passed 4 Indian houses on the Lard. Side in a timbered bottom, a fiew miles further we came too at 3 houses on Stard. Side, back of which is a pond in which I Saw Great numbers of Small Swan ... Here the mountains are high on each Side, those to the Lard. Side has Some Snow on them at this time, more timber than above and of greater variety. ..." [Clark, October 29, 1805] |
"... We went 23 miles and encamped at a small village on the north side. ..." [Gass, October 29, 1805] |
"... we Came 26 miles this day and Camped at a village on the Stard. Side Saw Snow on a mountain on the Lard Side. [Mount Hood, see information above] ..." [Ordway, October 29, 1805] |
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The Camp - October 29, 1805:
Lewis and Clark camped on the Washington side of the Columbia, upstream of the Little White Salmon River, at a village near a "Pond". Today the Washington town of Cook is located at the mouth of the Little White Salmon River, and the "Pond" is today's Drano Lake. |
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