This article originally appeared in the November 1993 FDA Consumer and contains revisions made in May 1994. It is no longer being updated.
More information about cosmetics is available from the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition's Cosmetics Web page.
This article is part of a series with important health information for teenagers.
A sea of cosmetics crowds the drugstore shelves, luring you with claims of romance, popularity and beauty. To be happy, you must use these products! Or so the advertisers would have you believe.
Do they work? Will you be the most beautiful, the most successful, and the most radiant person if you use these products? Where does the hype end and the help begin?
Cosmetics are defined in the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act as "articles (other than soap) intended to be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's structure or functions."
The following are all considered cosmetics:
Cosmetics can't work miracles, but they can help keep your skin clean and looking moist and soft. They also can temporarily close pores, plump up skin to make it appear smoother, and give you a rosy glow or blush.
Many cosmetic products are designed to protect the skin of people over 30 against dryness and the accompanying wrinkles. But these aren't the concerns of most teens. The biggest skin problem for most teenagers is acne. Some studies show that all adolescents have acne to some degree because when puberty hits, your skin starts secreting more oil. This contributes to blackheads and pimples, which cause your pores to stretch a little bit. Although acne cannot be avoided simply by washing your face, the oils on the surface of your skin can be diminished by frequent washing with cleansers made for that purpose. And there are many treatments available for acne both in over-the-counter and prescription strengths (see "Acne Agony" in the July-August 1992 FDA Consumer).
If, while trying to decrease the oily shine on your face, you make your skin overly dry, or if you're spending a lot of time outdoors in very cold weather, you may want to use a moisturizer. "Teens really should only use a water-based moisture lotion labeled 'non-comedogenic,' which means it doesn't clog pores," says Dr. Barry Leshin, M.D., associate professor of dermatology at the Wake Forest School of Medicine. "Heavier oil-based moisturizers can cause acne cosmetica--an [acne-like] skin condition directly attributed to the use of cosmetics."
Ingredients
What cosmetics can or cannot do for your complexion is determined by the ingredients of the cosmetics and your own complexion. Cosmetics contain ingredients from nature and from the laboratory. Some work well for cleaning, others are good for lubricating--and some don't do very much at all.
It's a good idea to read the labeling on cosmetics to find out what the product contains. Some ingredients, such as alcohol and mineral oil, are fairly common. Others seem more unusual and may require some explanation. Here are some examples.
Overuse of some cosmetics can cause allergies and other skin problems (see "Cosmetic Safety More Complex Than at First Blush," in the November 1991 FDA Consumer). Ingredients such as fragrance and preservatives can cause allergic reactions in some people. Skin reactions, which doctors call contact dermatitis, should be taken seriously. (See "Contact Dermatitis: Solutions to Rash Mysteries" in the May 1990 FDA Consumer.) Even if you've used a cosmetic for years with no problems, you can develop an allergic reaction as you become sensitized to one or more of the ingredients.
Some cosmetics are labeled "allergy-tested" or "hypoallergenic," but products with these claims don't always offer a solution to cosmetic allergies. "Hypoallergenic" means only that the manufacturer feels that the product is less likely to cause an allergic reaction. Before placing this claim on the label, some companies conduct tests, and others simply don't include perfumes or other common problem-causing ingredients in their products. The claim "dermatologist-tested" on some cosmetic products only means that a skin doctor has tested the product to see if it will generally cause allergenic problems. Other label claims that carry no guarantee that they won't cause reactions include "sensitivity-tested" and "non-irritating."
"Natural" ingredients are extracted directly from plants or animal products as opposed to being produced synthetically. Natural ingredients can cause allergic reactions. If you have an allergy to certain plants or animals, you could have an allergic reaction to cosmetics containing those ingredients. For instance, "lanolin," extracted from sheep wool, is an ingredient in many moisturizers and is a common cause of allergies.
Marcia Sheets, a substitute teacher in Sykesville, Md., has tried to use cosmetics for years, but even those claiming to be allergy-free have created problems for her.
"I've had hives and swollen eyes, I've sneezed because of perfumes, and I've had blotchy skin--even from some products that are supposed to be gentle. If you have allergies, you just don't use the stuff. Over the years, I've figured out what I can use and what I can't."
If you have an allergic reaction to a cosmetic, you should stop using all cosmetics until you call your doctor, who will then try to determine which ingredient, or combination of ingredients, caused the reaction.
Cosmetic Safety
Serious problems from cosmetic use are rare, but sometimes problems arise with specific products. FDA warned consumers last February about the danger of using aerosol hairspray near heat, fire, or while smoking. Until hairspray is fully dry, it can ignite and cause serious burns. Injuries and deaths have occurr ed from fires related to aerosol hairsprays.
Another problem can occur with aerosol sprays or powders: If they are inhaled, they can cause lung damage.
The most common injury from cosmetics is from scratching the eye with a mascara wand. Eye infections can result if eye scratches go untreated. Such infections can lead to ulcers on the cornea, loss of lashes, or even blindness. To play it safe, never try to apply mascara while riding in a car, bus, train, or plane. Sharing makeup can also lead to serious problems. Cosmetics become contaminated with bacteria the brush or applicator sponge picks up from the skin--and if you moisten brushes with saliva, the problem is much more severe. Washing your hands before using makeup will help prevent exposing the makeup to bacteria.
Artificial nails can be a source of problems, especially when not applied correctly. Artificial nails must be completely sealed because any space between the natural nail and the artificial nail gives fungal infection an opportunity to begin. Such infections can lead to permanent nail loss.
Sleeping while wearing eye makeup can cause problems, too. If mascara flakes into your eyes while you sleep, you might awaken with itching, bloodshot eyes, and possibly infections or eye scratches. To avoid eye infections or injury, remove all makeup before going to bed.
Other safety tips are:
This is a mirror of the page at http://www.fda.gov/fdac/reprints/ots_cosm.html
Publication No. (FDA) 94-5015