In 1811, Sans Orielle, an Osage Indian, with others of his tribe, guided Major George C. Sibley, Indian Agent from Fort Osage, Missouri, and his party to Salt Plains. They are thought to have been the first American men to see the plains.

Major Sibley called the area the Grand Saline and described it as "glistening like a brilliant field of snow in the summer sun" and estimated 600-800 buffalo were wandering about the salt flats. He also noted that "it has the effect of looming as the sailors called it, producing, to the unpracticed eye much delusion" (objects look closer than they are).

Salt Flats
FWS Photo

Another early day explorer to see the plains was Captain Nathan Boone, who headed a government expedition from Fort Gibson into what is now central Kansas in 1843.

The salt flats lay within a crossroads of Indian movement; they were not dominated by any particular tribe. As a crossroads, the Great Salt Plains have been the scene of many Indian Councils, both of war and peace. In drafting the treaty which defined the territory to become the so-called permanent home of the Cherokees in 1828, the U.S. government withheld the Salt Plains area with the provision that, "The right is reserved to the U. S. to allow other tribes of red men to get salt on the Great Salt Plains in common with the Cherokee Tribe".

In 1890, the Cherokees were forced to sell the Salt Plains to the U.S. government.

In September 1893, the area was opened up to settlers in the famous "land run". Claims were never staked on the Great Salt Plains and it remained a public domain until 1930 when it became part of the Salt Plains National Wildlife Refuge.

In the earliest of the settlement of the Indian territory, western Kansas and Texas cattlemen sent wagons to the plains to haul away great loads of salt.

The value of the plains lay not in it's salt alone, but in the rich hunting afforded by the animals migrating there for the salt supply. Possession of this area is said to have been the cause of many Indian battles.

Throughout history, the marshes and uplands of the area have been important hunting and fishing areas. Deer and buffalo were the big game that brought Indians and settlers to the Salt Plains.

"6 Brant from 1 flock" - Dated Winter 1913
Photo courtesy of Tom Evans

In addition to big game, the Salt Plains' marshes have always been an important stop-over for migratory waterfowl. Hunters used live decoys and traditional duck blinds with great success.

With marshes, uplands and grasslands, the Salt Plains have provided habitat to a variety of animals.

During World War 2, the salt flats were used as a bombing and strafing range by the war department. Bombers were sent from Oklahoma City and Enid, OK and Pratt and Dodge City, KS bases for target practice.

The salt flats have always been a tourist attraction because they are so unusual. The flat expanse of white salt-covered sand combined with the rich American history of the area draws thousands of people, annually, to the area.

Research on the refuge has shown that the flats are

important for shorebirds such as the endangered Interior Least Tern and the threatened Snowy Plover. The refuge manages the salt flats to keep visitors atleast 500 feet from these shorebird nests to prevent parental abandonment of the nests.

The addition of the Great Salt Plains Lake in 1940 created an island which is now an important heron, egret and ibis rookery. Click the "About Us" link below to learn more about the Salt Plains NWR.